The One-Answer Question Thread [closed]

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Two questions:

Is the Moyu Aolong much better than the Weilong? I love clicky, crispy, loud and fast cubes and the weilong really isn't that for me.

If I want to start skewb, what is a good skewb to buy?
 
ChickenWrap said:
Two questions:

Is the Moyu Aolong much better than the Weilong? I love clicky, crispy, loud and fast cubes and the weilong really isn't that for me.

If I want to start skewb, what is a good skewb to buy?
Click to expand...

If you like scratchy and bubbly cubes then get the Aolong. Aolong is my main, but I only have 2 3x3s so yeah. It is slower than the Weilong .Otherwise, a Moyu Liying or Huanying (Both are crispy) will suit you well.
Lanlan Skewbbecause they are cheap.
 
ChickenWrap said:
Two questions:

Is the Moyu Aolong much better than the Weilong? I love clicky, crispy, loud and fast cubes and the weilong really isn't that for me...
Click to expand...

What PJKCuber said...

ChickenWrap said:
If I want to start skewb, what is a good skewb to buy?
Click to expand...

Unmodded LanLan's suck. Get a ShengShou or the MoYu - It will be out next week.
 
ChickenWrap said:
Two questions:

Is the Moyu Aolong much better than the Weilong? I love clicky, crispy, loud and fast cubes and the weilong really isn't that for me.

If I want to start skewb, what is a good skewb to buy?
Click to expand...

As others have said before, if you like bubbly cubes you will like the AoLong. But if you like loud and crispy cubes and, most important, cubes that stay square / cubic while solving you might like the Moyu HuanYing or, the one I'm using now with pretty good results, the YJ ChiLong (yeah, there's also the LiYing, sort of the HuanYing II, but I haven't tried that one so I cannot tell).

I think, as also others have pointed out, that the AoLong is a bit slower when turning but it is also more forgiving if you're not accurate (great corner cutting, etc.) so in the end I have very similar times with the AoLong and HuanYing/ChiLong but the roundedness and loss of square shape when solving makes me a bit mad. Maybe with tight tensions and good lubing it can improve but I have not tested that yet with the AoLong. That's what I did with the WeiLong v2 (yeah, I also have one of those) and it improved a bit for me but I still prefer the HuanYing/ChiLong.

Hope it helps even though I'm a patzer that only averages 23-26.
 
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On 3x3x3 I average about 16 seconds. At my peak I averaged about 14.9 seconds over an average of 100. I have always used corner bias during F2L to find pieces. When at my peak I remember just being able to "see" pairs of pieces, without paying attention to looking for corners or edges alone. I can't really pull this off anymore, most likely due to lack of practice lately compared to back then.

Lately I have been taking advice given to me by Breandan Vallance and I am trying to pay attention to "good" vs. "bad" edges. "Good" edges can be solved in RUL, "bad" edges can be solved in RULF or RULB or with a cube rotation to put it into RUL.

My question: To average sub-15, is it helpful to pay more attention to whether a c/e pair edge is "good" or "bad" rather than to watch for corners using the "corner bias" approach I have been using before? When trying to spot an F2L pair should I look for the edges first, then the corners?
 
cmhardw said:
On 3x3x3 I average about 16 seconds. At my peak I averaged about 14.9 seconds over an average of 100. I have always used corner bias during F2L to find pieces. When at my peak I remember just being able to "see" pairs of pieces, without paying attention to looking for corners or edges alone. I can't really pull this off anymore, most likely due to lack of practice lately compared to back then.

Lately I have been taking advice given to me by Breandan Vallance and I am trying to pay attention to "good" vs. "bad" edges. "Good" edges can be solved in RUL, "bad" edges can be solved in RULF or RULB or with a cube rotation to put it into RUL.

My question: To average sub-15, is it helpful to pay more attention to whether a c/e pair edge is "good" or "bad" rather than to watch for corners using the "corner bias" approach I have been using before? When trying to spot an F2L pair should I look for the edges first, then the corners?
Click to expand...
This post just , made me realise that I have no idea how I look ahead. I usually spot whichever comes into view first I think.
 
I would say, having a corner bias would be better, especially in terms of look ahead, since choosing a random corner to do next and its edge pair seems easier than the other way around
me myself seems to have an edge bias, however, this is not in terms of searching which pair to do next, but rather deciding which pair to do next as what I usually see is a few pairs at once, instead only a few corners, or a few edges
 
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cmhardw said:
On 3x3x3 I average about 16 seconds. At my peak I averaged about 14.9 seconds over an average of 100. I have always used corner bias during F2L to find pieces. When at my peak I remember just being able to "see" pairs of pieces, without paying attention to looking for corners or edges alone. I can't really pull this off anymore, most likely due to lack of practice lately compared to back then.

Lately I have been taking advice given to me by Breandan Vallance and I am trying to pay attention to "good" vs. "bad" edges. "Good" edges can be solved in RUL, "bad" edges can be solved in RULF or RULB or with a cube rotation to put it into RUL.

My question: To average sub-15, is it helpful to pay more attention to whether a c/e pair edge is "good" or "bad" rather than to watch for corners using the "corner bias" approach I have been using before? When trying to spot an F2L pair should I look for the edges first, then the corners?
Click to expand...

Edge bias can definitely be useful, but at your point, where you are having at least some measure of difficulty just finding pairs in the first place, the edge bias wouldn't really be accomplishing what it should. It sounds like, for you, the edge bias would end up functioning like "here's an edge...no wait, that's a bad edge. Let's look for a different edge, oh there's a good edge! Now where is its corner...", whereas in order to be useful it should be more like "I see a couple different pairs here. Oh this one has a bad edge and that one has a good edge, so I'll go with that one"

Basically edge bias can serve two useful purposes:
1. minimize rotations
2. reduce bad cases (by noticing them in advance and doing something to change them while solving the "better" pairs)

#1 is something that I don't think is too important to worry about at your speed, and #2 is a benefit that can only actually happen if your lookahead is very good, otherwise you'll just end up slowing yourself down because you are trying to look at and think about too many things. I'd say if corner bias has always been more comfortable for you, stick with it for now at least until you get to the point you were at before you stopped practicing as seriously.

Anyway, I'm curious to your thoughts on this topic:
How is your turn speed? What cube do you use? I always think of the sub-15 barrier as purely about lookahead, as a speed where the TPS required should be easy. But I'm wondering if that's actually the case for those like you who learned speedcubing entirely on old cubes that demanded different, or less, fingertricks than today's cubes? Basically, do you share my view that lookahead is the only real challenge in reaching sub-15, or is there more to it for you?
 
What's the name of that site where you can search for algorithms for different setup cases?
 
This feels like a really stupid question, but how can I tell if an aolong v2 is an original batch or the newer one? I got it from the cubicle at nats, and I don't have the box. It's white if it makes any difference.
 
I need some advice
I'm sub 15 and i started learning winter variation
I use cfop
I almost never run into the cases i'm learning
what should i be learning instead
I don't see the use of learning something i'll barely use
 
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