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I never lubricated it. Took me a while to find out about lubix, and I don't want to put in my guhong the same **** I did in my rubik's cube.

By ****, that must be something bad like vaseline. That's the only thing I can think of that is **** and gummy.
Does anyone know where i can buy a speedstacks timer V2 for a reasonable price? Speedstacks.com only sells the v3 now :(

Or does anyone have one they could sell me?

There are many stores that could help you in this forum:http://www.speedsolving.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?37-Puzzle-Shops
Technically all the trusted cubing stores are located there. Go through as many as you like to find V2. It's not that hard.
 
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Does water damage my Zhanchi?

I am wondering if I can use that when cleaning my cube:)

If you clean the stickers or pieces, it is perfectly fine. There are even tutorials on how to clean them with water. But for the core, the center pieces are fine too, but don't get water on the screws and springs, that's all. They can rust.
 
Asia Konvittayayotin edge pairing method in 4x4

any body knows what is asia (from thailand) pairing method for 4x4 cube?
 
Is there any way of recognizing OLLs and PLLs better? My solves break down to about 15-20 second f2l and 15 second OLL/PLL. I'm using 2 Look for both OLL and PLL. I'm also starting to slow down and look ahead, but I want to get my last layer times down to around 10 seconds.
 
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I tryed to wrote each Algorithm from OLL and PLL on a little sheet of paper, on the other side from the paper I wrote the name from the algorithm (like for example sune) and than I tryed to lean it. So I looked on my cube and when I see I must use the sune-OLL, I know which algorithm it is, but this may take a little bit time... but it works ;)
 
Is there any way of recognizing OLLs and PLLs better? My solves break down to about 15-20 second f2l and 15 second OLL/PLL. I'm using 2 Look for both OLL and PLL. I'm also starting to slow down and look ahead, but I want to get my last layer times down to around 10 seconds.

I tryed to wrote each Algorithm from OLL and PLL on a little sheet of paper, on the other side from the paper I wrote the name from the algorithm (like for example sune) and than I tryed to lean it. So I looked on my cube and when I see I must use the sune-OLL, I know which algorithm it is, but this may take a little bit time... but it works ;)

The Sune's are the easiest to recognise. OLL - I don't know how to easily recognise that. Ask around - others should be able to give you tips. PLL - Andy Klise (kungfoomanchu) and badmephisto both have PLL recognition guides, so have a look at them.

And try the F2L and Last Layer competitions in the Forum Competitions area. They should help you improve.
 
Do you think it is better to do the H perm with U' moves instead of U moves?So like this: M2U'M2U2M2U'M2.So in that case you turn do the M slices with your right hand instead of your left hand.Which do you find more comfortable and which do you think is faster?I currently use it with U' moves but I see most sub-1 H-perms on videos are done the other way.
 
will my magic fall apart if it has 1 string less?
feels stable...

It depends. Normally it's fine, but in certain places that take a lot of pressure while solving it will make it much less stable. Personally I actually prefer the feel of a magic with a single string missing (bottom center in unsolved position)
 
Hey guys, I'm in need of a 3x3 that has cubies very similar in design to a rubiks brand. It would also be ideal if they were a solid piece on the bottom and sides of the corners and edges. I'm not to worried about the cube being good for speedcubing, it just needs to meet my shape specifications. The cubies need to be mostly square and one piece of plastic is ideal, I may be able to make it work even if it caps for the bottoms of the pieces though.

Also, if there are any 3x3's out there that are slightly smaller(2-3mm) than your average speedcube and meet my above specifications I'd be thrilled.
 
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Hey guys, I'm in need of a 3x3 that has cubies very similar in design to a rubiks brand. It would also be ideal if they were a solid piece on the bottom and sides of the corners and edges. I'm not to worried about the cube being good for speedcubing, it just needs to meet my shape specifications. The cubies need to be mostly square and one piece of plastic is ideal, I may be able to make it work even if it caps for the bottoms of the pieces though.

Also, if there are any 3x3's out there that are slightly smaller(2-3cm) than your average speedcube and meet my above specifications I'd be thrilled.

Sounds you are looking for a gas assist molded mini cube...
No such thing exists to my knowledge.

3 cm smaller is not slightly smaller: a regular cube doesn't even measure 6 cm!

Anyway: 46 mm mini type A is a pretty cool small cube but the edges are not"mostly square" at all.
 
Fixed, that should've said mm. I'm making a cross cube so the pieces need to be square and one piece of plastic along the bottom so that I can have plenty of surface are to glue.
 
Should i take the torpedos out of my lingyun v2 or should I leave them in? I've fixed the tension etc. but im still having lock up problems. thanks
 
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