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one quick question;
I'm looking for the smoothest cube possible, and cuts pretty well.. I dont' pop that often at all, I have pretty precise turning, but like a cube that cuts just in case.. I have 2 rubik's brands that are smooth but dont cut corners for beans.

F2 in my opinion, speedy, smooth, and shmexy...
However, the stickers are rather bad quality and your going to have to glue the caps when they pop(so they don't pop anymore its a temporary problem).

There are a lot of cubes on the market now so its a matter of opinion.
 
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Ghost hand 2x2 are the best after broken in a lot correct? I've had mine for about 2 weeks (I don't 2x2 often), and it still feels like a brand new eastsheen (with springs). I've lubed it and loosened it, so now I'm trying to break it in. How long will it take?
 
Ghost hand 2x2 are the best after broken in a lot correct? I've had mine for about 2 weeks (I don't 2x2 often), and it still feels like a brand new eastsheen (with springs). I've lubed it and loosened it, so now I'm trying to break it in. How long will it take?
Make sure you lubed it in the right place. If you just opened it a little bit and stuck the straw in there, most likely it wasn't lubed in the right place. Take out a corner, and you need to lube it in those holes between the edges and the core, otherwise the lube doesn't work. And yeah, break it in.
 
Two questions:
Where can I get a sticky lamenation sheet seen in this video? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tQv-0P-1PeI The only time I've ever had one was with my C4Y DIY kit, and the sheet worked beatifully. I'd love to get my hands on more.

I saw them either on speedcubeshop, or cube depot. Dont remeber which, might be both. This is assuming you are talking about sticker apllication sheets.

btw, they do not work with vinyl stickers.

one quick question;
I'm looking for the smoothest cube possible, and cuts pretty well.. I dont' pop that often at all, I have pretty precise turning, but like a cube that cuts just in case.. I have 2 rubik's brands that are smooth but dont cut corners for beans.

IF corner cutting is all you want, go either dayan guhong or lingyun.


@machanga - I've solved my LanLan well over a hundred times, and it still doesn't seem broken in, compared to how well my eastsheen turns.
and from my understanding Gh and LL are pretty similar, except the GH is tensionable on all sides I believe. Isn't it?
 
Make sure you lubed it in the right place. If you just opened it a little bit and stuck the straw in there, most likely it wasn't lubed in the right place. Take out a corner, and you need to lube it in those holes between the edges and the core, otherwise the lube doesn't work. And yeah, break it in.

yeah, just how long though. Whatever it was an odd question, it's fine now.
 
@machanga - I've solved my LanLan well over a hundred times, and it still doesn't seem broken in, compared to how well my eastsheen turns.
and from my understanding Gh and LL are pretty similar, except the GH is tensionable on all sides I believe. Isn't it?

Lanlan's are generally slow, however if you "arcalan" or pen spring mod it, it becomes eastsheen speed + LL corner cutting
 
In the early days of speedcubing, how did the pioneers such as Jessica Fridrich develop so many efficient algs? I'm guessing it was before computers were powerful enough or software existing for searching optimal algs. Was it simply theory or trial and error or both? I realise there was a lot of sharing of algs so it must have been a combined effort.
 
In the early days of speedcubing, how did the pioneers such as Jessica Fridrich develop so many efficient algs? I'm guessing it was before computers were powerful enough or software existing for searching optimal algs. Was it simply theory or trial and error or both? I realise there was a lot of sharing of algs so it must have been a combined effort.

All I can say is that the algorithms were by both her and Mirek Goljan.

Possibly, for OLL, it was done intuitively. I have learned 9 OLL cases intuitively, and can learn many more bu utilizing, remove-play-reinsert. The idea is that you move an f2l pair into the top laver(remove), rearrange the piece without destroying the pair(play), and reisert the f2l pair.
3 examples In this format:
(remove)(play)(re-insert)
(R U2)(R2 F R F')(R U2 R')
(R U2)(R2 F R F')(U2 R' F R F')
(R U2)(R2 F R F' U' R U R' U')(R U' R')
They are all extremely similar.

Thats just my opinion on how OLL could have been developed.


Working on getting all of my PLLs sub-2. Need a really good R(a). I have checked the PLL wiki, but am having trouble picking one to work on.
 
I hate L moves so my Ra is this one: R U2' R' U2 R B' R' U' R U R B R2' U
I'm not super fast on the U2s but the second half is sooooo fast. Do the R B' by pushing the back corner down with your thumb, then regrip your right hand so the thumb is on the front face and your fingers are on the back then the R' U' R U R B R2 is the quickest thing in the world (I do the final U by pulling my hand towards me and catching the U face with my pinky - it looks really cool :P )

The only thing I dont like about it is that it's positioned so that the headlights are on the back which I don't intuitively do when I'm setting up PLL's
 
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