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i am buying a zhanchi. i know that stickerless cubes are not allowed in competitions so iam buying a stickered one. are there any other rules about the size of a cube or all sizes like 55mm 57mm etc are allowed ?

You forgot that you asked about size already?

http://www.speedsolving.com/forum/showthread.php?43438-size-of-a-rubik-s-cube

Although you asked a different question, it's still similar enough for you to just bump your old thread. Also, remember to use the OAQT instead of making new threads :)

OT: You can use any size in comp
 
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Two questions;

1) Is there a great edgepairing method for Yau5? I'm doing free slice atm but I was hoping there'd be something with a clear red line like with Yau5 and 3-2-3 edge-pairing.

2) Is there a good/efficient way to learn cross cases? I've noticed that if I get a bad cross case there is no way to get a sub 20. If I get an easy/decent case I can get atleast sub 19, usually 18 or less. My F2L is still bad mainly because of crappy inefficient crosses with a slow transition to the first pair (caused by the messy and inefficient cross). Oh and also I suck at look ahead but then again, who doesnt.
 
Two questions;

2) Is there a good/efficient way to learn cross cases? I've noticed that if I get a bad cross case there is no way to get a sub 20. If I get an easy/decent case I can get atleast sub 19, usually 18 or less. My F2L is still bad mainly because of crappy inefficient crosses with a slow transition to the first pair (caused by the messy and inefficient cross). Oh and also I suck at look ahead but then again, who doesnt.

skipping first question because idk

are you color neutral? you can try being opposite color neutral if you are not color neutral. It helps a lot when there's a really bad cross case on one layer and there's a chance the opposite side has a better cross case (obviously sometimes both are bad). You can try practicing only cross + 1 f2l pair.
 
My mom said if she was to learn to cube, she would have to understand what every thing does. Petrus?

Beginners fridrich. That's just the first reaction for the major mass of people that know of the rubiks cube. They dont understand it, and they figure they need to understand it to solve it. I've found out that understanding how everything works requires much more effort compared to learning how to solve it and then understand it through the process.

She will "understand it" eventually. I think it's kinda ambitious to try and understand algorithms or work out intuitive methods such as petrus if you've never actually handled/solved the cube before. Unless your mother has a natural talent for it and is way more intelligent than the average person, but I think it's unlikely no matter who we are talking about.
 
Beginners fridrich. That's just the first reaction for the major mass of people that know of the rubiks cube. They dont understand it, and they figure they need to understand it to solve it. I've found out that understanding how everything works requires much more effort compared to learning how to solve it and then understand it through the process.

She will "understand it" eventually. I think it's kinda ambitious to try and understand algorithms or work out intuitive methods such as petrus if you've never actually handled/solved the cube before. Unless your mother has a natural talent for it and is way more intelligent than the average person, but I think it's unlikely no matter who we are talking about.

I explained 8355 method to numerous beginners, and they understood perfectly. Every single turn!
Don't discourage others to understand a solving method.
 
I explained 8355 method to numerous beginners, and they understood perfectly. Every single turn!
Don't discourage others to understand a solving method.

I've never heard of 8355 so I can't really argue against that. I've also taught beginners fridrich to everyone interested in learning with a 0% fail rate.

I am not trying to be discouraging, I just prefer to underestimate rather than overestimate people that try to learn to cube, and I'm usually in the right with this assumption. Anyone can learn beginners fridrich. If they are truly interested in understanding the cube and learning about it they will investigate further in other methods. I just feel like beginner fridrich is a great way to get the basic understand of how turning layers work and getting the feeling of how it is to be a cuber. After that I'd suggest to learn Roux or "advanced" Fridrich for speedsolvers or other methods if you get easily bored with a single method and algorithms.
 
I've never heard of 8355 so I can't really argue against that. I've also taught beginners fridrich to everyone interested in learning with a 0% fail rate.

I am not trying to be discouraging, I just prefer to underestimate rather than overestimate people that try to learn to cube, and I'm usually in the right with this assumption. Anyone can learn beginners fridrich. If they are truly interested in understanding the cube and learning about it they will investigate further in other methods. I just feel like beginner fridrich is a great way to get the basic understand of how turning layers work and getting the feeling of how it is to be a cuber. After that I'd suggest to learn Roux or "advanced" Fridrich for speedsolvers or other methods if you get easily bored with a single method and algorithms.

Sorry if I was a bit harsh. I didn't mean to.

8355 is a very good and simple beginners method, which I found perfect for someone who want to understand a solve, not just memorize "mindless" algorithms. It can be even more efficient (in move count) than standard LBL. However, it has a huge drawback, namely you can't really iprove your solve (like LBL -> Fridrich), so it's not suitable for someone who later wants to be a speedcuber. But otherwise, I recommend it for beginners.
Here is a very good description, made for beginners:
http://cube.crider.co.uk/beginner.php

Roux (or even Petrus) can be quite hard with their block buildings for a beginner.

And it seems I like overestimate people rather than underestimate. :)
 
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So for about a week or so I've been doing blindfolded crosses in order to get the cross down well, but it's not quite working. I've heard people say that they swear by BLD crosses and blah blah but I still suck, it takes maybe 5 seconds on average to do the cross and it's frustrating. Is there anything else I can do? Because I swear that the reason I'm not getting sub 20 is because of the cross. If I had a better cross and better cross to F2L transition I think I could be so much better.
 
So for about a week or so I've been doing blindfolded crosses in order to get the cross down well, but it's not quite working. I've heard people say that they swear by BLD crosses and blah blah but I still suck, it takes maybe 5 seconds on average to do the cross and it's frustrating. Is there anything else I can do? Because I swear that the reason I'm not getting sub 20 is because of the cross. If I had a better cross and better cross to F2L transition I think I could be so much better.

Did you try doing averages of just cross + 1 F2L pair?
 
How do I get the center caps off, then?

With a knife and be very careful I manged to get the green cap off with a very bad cut on my finger.


I did come across a Skewb scrambler years ago where I gives you the scramble then tho the right of that it shows the colors of the scrambled Skewb. Can some one find it for me?
 
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