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What does "l" mean in cubing notation? I have come across it several times when memorizing Algs, and I don't know what it means. Does it mean a L slice turn or a turn of the L and l slices, or does it mean something else?
 
What does "l" mean in cubing notation? I have come across it several times when memorizing Algs, and I don't know what it means. Does it mean a L slice turn or a turn of the L and l slices, or does it mean something else?

l = L + M
Its like turning L with the middle layer stuck to it as it turns. its also written as Lw = L wide
 
The One Answer Question Thread

Hey guys hello! i want do a F2L very fast how i can do this and what F2L i should do, looking ahead or other F2L?

Learn tricks while at the same time bettering your look ahead while at the same time simultaneously lowering turn speed and increasing overall speed. For now. Then speed up turn speed while keeping movecount low.

For CFOP i find the best thing to do is slow at the beginning and end of each pair and dont do useless moves. Predict and control edge orientation...
 
very unlikely, unles you know how to get the first layer, which i'm sure you could figure it out. once you get the firstlayer, you could accidentally solve it, but still high chances lol. possible permutations is 3,600,000
 
Need help for 4x4x4 and up!

Hi guys, i recently purchased a 4x4x4 and a 5x5x5 and i don't know if i should do the 3x3x3 part with Roux method or Fridrich method (Note that i am a roux user and i really suck with fridrich)

i average 30 seconds with roux and like 1 minute with fridrich.

So i want to know if i should solve the last part of 4x4x4 and 5x5x5 with roux or practice fridrich( i find it boring)
Which one would be the more efficient?
 
If by "last part" you are referring to solving a 3x3 after having completed reduction method on a 4x4 and 5x5 to get centers and edges then either method works fine. The difficult part (at least for me) is working on finger tricks and doing algorithms despite my hands moving slower.
 
I have a stickerless dayan zhanchi I got from cube depot, but it doesn't have that speed that I've seen in reviews, and where is a good place to learn advanced intuitive f2l? I know beginners, but not advanced. I also have the finger speed to be getting sub 20 solves off of a beginners not f2l method, but my cube is slowing me own, it's never been lubed and I'm not sure if it's tensioned right.
 
Hey I'm a Roux user too! On 4x4 I would recommend the Meyer method because for me personally it is hard to look ahead for first block from reduction but with Meyer you do first block and then do centers and pair edges. For 5x5 I use reduction into ZZ just because the M slice won't stay together :(
 
I have a stickerless dayan zhanchi I got from cube depot, but it doesn't have that speed that I've seen in reviews, and where is a good place to learn advanced intuitive f2l? I know beginners, but not advanced. I also have the finger speed to be getting sub 20 solves off of a beginners not f2l method, but my cube is slowing me own, it's never been lubed and I'm not sure if it's tensioned right.

Try to look through badmephisto's tutorials which really help on f2l cases advanced and beginners. Try to lube your cube as cubed with a zhanchi with no lube for almost 6 months and then when I tried izo lube and applied it to the core it was like amazing dropped my times by 10-15 seconds. I find the best tension is with 45 quarter turns when screwing the screw in but it is all personally preference all it is, is playing around with the cube.
 
In WCA scrambles how do you hold the cube to start.
I've heard green facing and white on top but what exactly is it.
P.S. I would also like to know about pyraminx scrambles as well.
 
In WCA scrambles how do you hold the cube to start.
I've heard green facing and white on top but what exactly is it.
P.S. I would also like to know about pyraminx scrambles as well.

4d) Scrambling orientation:
4d1) Cube puzzles and Megaminx are scrambled with the white face (if not possible, then the lightest face) on top and the green face (if not possible, then the darkest adjacent face) on the front.
4d2) Pyraminx are scrambled with the yellow face (if not possible, then the lightest face) on bottom and the green face (if not possible, then the darkest adjacent face) on the front.
4d3) Square-1 are scrambled with the darker colour on front (out of the 2 possible scrambling orientations).

Thank you i'm gonna try this :)

K4 is also a thing.
 
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