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Don't just use raw 600 grit. The paper I'm referring to is really worn down. Like really worn down. It's what I'm using to finish off my 7x7 sanding so I've sanded ~50 pieces so far. There's actually plastic permanently stuck in the grit now lol. 600 would work if you break it in but something high would be better if you don't want to wait. It should feel almost smooth to the touch.
 
crud all i have is jigaloo... guess its time to buy lubix.

That's exactly why I used Jigaloo in the first place, my parents were not letting me order Lubix with MY OWN MONEY, so I had no other choice, but looking back I'd rather have kept it unlubed and waited until a got Lubix. It can turn a crappy cube, like a rubiks brand, into an amazing cube. I will hopefully get a Lubix Ultimate soon anyway so I won't have to care and this cube will turn into my backup cube
 
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I lubed the inner white core of my dayan mf8 4x4 with lubix,but it pops a lot,as a result of that i hav to turn very carefully and slowly which gives me bad times.

I think the balance between the tensions of inner and outer layers is not correct,so what should i do now to solve this problem?
 
Your black core pieces should be tightened all the way. The white core is adjustable but you really only need to make it so the whit's core glides with little effort. Then the cube will be fine. I've heard Maru lube on the layers works extremely well. If nothing is working disassemble and retry.
 
Not sure if this is the right place to ask this, but how do you disassemble a meffert's 3x3 assembly cube? Im pretty sure its supposed to come with instructions, but I never got mine :( I understand you use the key to pop out the center parts of the center cubes, but then what?? It looks like it should be screwed out but putting a screwdriver to it just makes the plastic bend.
Thanks
 
Just got my first 5x5, did one solve and thought, 'hey this isn't too difficult' But I think I may have been quite lucky with the last 6 edges, I just did my edge parity alg from the 4x4 and it all seemed to work. My second solve I just couldn't do the last 6 edges at all, and had to look up an alg on bigcubes.com.
Now for my question... presuming I'm not wanting to be that fast on the 5x5, and also want to learn the bare minimum algs, what algs do I need to know to solve the 5x5 (that aren't the same as 4x4 ones, since I know those)?
Thanks.
 
Just got my first 5x5, did one solve and thought, 'hey this isn't too difficult' But I think I may have been quite lucky with the last 6 edges, I just did my edge parity alg from the 4x4 and it all seemed to work. My second solve I just couldn't do the last 6 edges at all, and had to look up an alg on bigcubes.com.
Now for my question... presuming I'm not wanting to be that fast on the 5x5, and also want to learn the bare minimum algs, what algs do I need to know to solve the 5x5 (that aren't the same as 4x4 ones, since I know those)?
Thanks.

0 - everything you can do as 4x4, except for last two centers or last two edges, which I do pretty much intuitevly or with paritiy alg from 4x4

How do you make a dayan/mf8 4x4 good? My sucks out of the box...

set tension and lube
 
What's the fastest to way to make the first face in the ortega method? (2x2x2)
I am SO slow at it.

1. Be color neutral
2. Take as much time as you want for inspection, and try to find the color with the shortest-to-make face. Experiment with stuff. Its an intuitive thing that you really have to get used to yourself. Keep in mind that the first face can always be made in 5 moves or less.
 
I lubed the inner white core of my dayan mf8 4x4 with lubix,but it pops a lot,as a result of that i hav to turn very carefully and slowly which gives me bad times.

I think the balance between the tensions of inner and outer layers is not correct,so what should i do now to solve this problem?

Well keep in mind the DaYan Mf8 is known for popping... A lot.
 
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