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I need some better OLLs for these cases,


O47.gif
I use F' L' U' L U L' U' L U F'



O11.gif
I use r' R2 U R' U R U2 R' U r R'



O15.gif
I use y2 l' U' l L' U' L U l' U l



O30.gif
I use M U' (L' U' L U) (L F' L' F) M'


The ones which I use i find them really slow,i checked the wiki for some better algs,but i have no idea which are the most common ones.Thanks

I use the 3rd one and its really fast if you do it right
 
I need some better OLLs for these cases,


O47.gif
I use F' L' U' L U L' U' L U F'



O11.gif
I use r' R2 U R' U R U2 R' U r R'



O15.gif
I use y2 l' U' l L' U' L U l' U l



O30.gif
I use M U' (L' U' L U) (L F' L' F) M'


The ones which I use i find them really slow,i checked the wiki for some better algs,but i have no idea which are the most common ones.Thanks

Second one: y' or u', idc. Then Lw' U' L U' L' U2 Lw
Very much like anti sune, but the first and last turns are wide.
 
1)Away from the timer, flattened.
2)Look at your fingers and see where the first bend in the bones are from the palm are? I have those resting on the stackmat.
3)Stretch the magic enough so that it stretches the strings, but BE CAREFUL NOT TO BREAK IT.

3. Could you further explain that please? Or possibly find a video that demonstrates it?
 
Is there a legitimate advantage to turns with two slices like u and d?

I always find it awkward and time consuming (I kind of have to go out of my way) to turn them like that, and I'd rather do something like a y U' ... I realize this is probably just personal preference, but I'm wondering if anyone has a strong argument for them. I'm in the process of learning full PLL so I'd rather learn good algorithms now than have to learn new ones later.
 
3. Could you further explain that please? Or possibly find a video that demonstrates it?
Grab your magic. Pull horizontally enough so it won't break.
Why was the thread about the V-cube 2 deleted?
Verdes wishes that the pictures are not distirbuted to the public.
Is there a legitimate advantage to turns with two slices like u and d?

I always find it awkward and time consuming (I kind of have to go out of my way) to turn them like that, and I'd rather do something like a y U' ... I realize this is probably just personal preference, but I'm wondering if anyone has a strong argument for them. I'm in the process of learning full PLL so I'd rather learn good algorithms now than have to learn new ones later.

Avoid cube rotations.
 
Alright, this has a few questions all pertaining to the magic:
1. In a competition, has is the magic set up on the table before the competitor starts? Is it placed touching the timer, away from the timer and is it forcefully flattened beforehand?
2. For timing, how would you set up your hands? Like, fingertips on the timer, palms?
3. Is there any mods that can be done to the magic that will allow it to move any easier? I trimmed down the inner corners of the tiles and that helped a little bit.
4. Does anyone have a video, or link to one, of someone demonstrating the no-regrip method in slow motion?
5. does anyone have a video, or link to one, of faster solves (preferably less than 1 second) in slow motion?

I decided to try and get fast at the magic, my best time so far (today was the first time I tried going fast) is 1.86, I'd like to to an AO100 and see if I can drop that to sub 1.5.

2)I do my fingertips just lightly enough so the timer is activated.
3)I have a collection of magics, all of my rubiks brands were great, until I tried a LA brand. My old main was a rubiks, pretty well broken in, has a lot of mistakes during solves. New magic is the same but worse. My LA one, extremely smooth. I made if from tiles of a 20 tile LA magic, it has custom inserts as well. But it is way better than my rubik's ones. My average of 12 dropped to 1.32 instead of 1.64.
4)http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PrG1dMzQT60
5)http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0F6Og_akiZo

TIPS: start by doing it over and over and over again semi fast, around 2-3 second solves, but get it consistent.
Then work of what I call pulsing, where you do the first twist part fast, pause, then do the flip part fast.
The work on getting rid of the pause.

For warmup, I do repeated solving for about 2 minutes, then I "pulse" 12 or so, then I do normal.

@firefox - How far away from the timer are you supposed to put it? The WCA regs just says it must be flat, if I remember correctly.
 
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Is there a legitimate advantage to turns with two slices like u and d?

I always find it awkward and time consuming (I kind of have to go out of my way) to turn them like that, and I'd rather do something like a y U' ... I realize this is probably just personal preference, but I'm wondering if anyone has a strong argument for them. I'm in the process of learning full PLL so I'd rather learn good algorithms now than have to learn new ones later.

Roux you use them pretty frequent (r,R,U) you can flip un-oriented edges.
 
I just saw a thread about Roux method's and scramble's and was wondering....Is there even such thing as a Roux scramble? I always kinda figured it was the method you used to solve a cube.
 
Question: I just got my first 4x4 rubiks cube and edge pairing is giving me problems when I have four paired edges on the bottom and another four on the top. I cant get the four edges between the up and down faces to pair up, without messing up the upper/downer ones. I have tryed some tutorials but sriously I didnt understand a bit about it. Someone could help with this?
I took a couple of pictures If you didnt understand my problem.
http://img411.imageshack.us/i/kuva0176.jpg/
http://img148.imageshack.us/i/kuva0177.jpg/
 
Question: I just got my first 4x4 rubiks cube and edge pairing is giving me problems when I have four paired edges on the bottom and another four on the top. I cant get the four edges between the up and down faces to pair up, without messing up the upper/downer ones. I have tryed some tutorials but sriously I didnt understand a bit about it. Someone could help with this?
I took a couple of pictures If you didnt understand my problem.
http://img411.imageshack.us/i/kuva0176.jpg/
http://img148.imageshack.us/i/kuva0177.jpg/

firstly you are going to put a unsolved pair in the top replacing it for a solved one. Make a pair and replace the solved one you just made for the unsolved one you just put in the top layer. Now You should have 4 solved on top and 1 on the middle layer. Now do the same thing again exchange a solved in the top for a unsolved in the middle. you should have 2 unsolved in the middle and 1 on the top layer. make a pair with the 2 you have in the middle layer and replace it with the one on the top layer. With that 2 things could have happened you either have all your edges solved ot you have 2 unsolved pairs in the middle layer now. If the second thing i mentioned happened you need to do the edge flip algorithm. To do this you need to make sure your 2 pieces of the same color are not able to pair up like green/orange over Blue/Yellow and its the same way on the other side you might have to do a R2 to make them parallel. if you had to do a R2 do a u2 (both layers) or if not just a U now in my case i should have again a O/G over a B/Y with the middle layer sliced. The alg is: R F' U R' F then re orientate your middle layers all your pairs should be solved. from there just solve it like a 3x3 just watch out for OLL and PLL parity
 
Ive been searching for a 5x5 and yuu all people go for a vcube5 but I don't have the money neither the intention to buy a vcube 5 right now so, any recommendations on what a 5x5 to buy?

Well I have a V-5 and I recommend it but if that's not an option then I believe cubedepot sells other 5x5 cubes for good prices.




And now for my question:

In ZZ what method can be used for the last layer. I'm really not looking to learn algs so COLL and PLL work fine correct?
 
Well I have a V-5 and I recommend it but if that's not an option then I believe cubedepot sells other 5x5 cubes for good prices.




And now for my question:

In ZZ what method can be used for the last layer. I'm really not looking to learn algs so COLL and PLL work fine correct?

From my understanding COLL orients and permutes the last layer corners, so full PLL wouldn't be needed, only the 4 edge ones. But OCLL(I thinks thats its name) are the standard 7, Corner Only OLLS. those + PLL are perfectly fine. I'm working on ZZ myself for OH purposes, and all of the OCLL can be done 2 gen.

Question: I just got my first 4x4 rubiks cube and edge pairing is giving me problems when I have four paired edges on the bottom and another four on the top. I cant get the four edges between the up and down faces to pair up, without messing up the upper/downer ones. I have tryed some tutorials but sriously I didnt understand a bit about it. Someone could help with this?
I took a couple of pictures If you didnt understand my problem.
http://img411.imageshack.us/i/kuva0176.jpg/
http://img148.imageshack.us/i/kuva0177.jpg/

http://speedcubing.com/chris/4-solution.html

It is where I learned to edge pair back when I was a noob.

It is the same as F2L on a 3x3.

ex. There is a corner in a slot, but it is the wrong corner, you get it out with R U R'. same with 4x4 edges, to get the BR edge out you do R' U' R the you move the top layer(The U face) so you can place the edge where it needs to go.

When I first started 4x4. I too put my solved edges in the top and bottom layers, but now I have learned they can be anywhere since when you slice back, they we be 're-paired'
 
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Yes I'm not sure about the difference of COLL and OCLL either I think OCLL is Orient Corners of the Last Layer though. I'm learning it for OH purposes as well and once I'm comfortable with the method I'll start practicing it OH and eventually learning 2-gen LL algs. Btw not all of your LL algs will be 2-gen. A-perms must be 3-gen if I recall correctly.
 
http://speedcubing.com/chris/4-solution.html

It is where I learned to edge pair back when I was a noob.

It is the same as F2L on a 3x3.

ex. There is a corner in a slot, but it is the wrong corner, you get it out with R U R'. same with 4x4 edges, to get the BR edge out you do R' U' R the you move the top layer(The U face) so you can place the edge where it needs to go.

When I first started 4x4. I too put my solved edges in the top and bottom layers, but now I have learned they can be anywhere since when you slice back, they we be 're-paired'

Crap, now I have messed it even more up, it takes a while to understand those instructions but I try to get it. Thanks for the link!
Edit: Now I messed it up so bad that I had to start again....
 
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