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(There are third generation (with three digits after the 0
Two versions one with and the other without closing bracket and what I understood was a particular problem version has no close and I want to buy the new one with the consequent
In short the question of what they sell in LIGHTAKE
Link: http://lightake.com/p/Professional-...-with-Data-Port-for-Sport-Stacking_m1264.html

I have the timer as sell in THHECUBICLE
http://thecubicle.us/speedstacks-bundle-p-1505.html
* Old: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OVRiN_Md8sc
Pass to 2:12
New: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WDFdyDlnEwA
Pass to 1:05

Sorry about madness and hope you understand
 
I recently switched to roux (go me!).
And was wondering how many people actually use it, like, more than 100? less than 500?
Any estimates.
Idk, but probably more than ZZ. I'd be surprised if there were 30 ZZ users from what I've seen (there could be more off the forums, but I haven't seen much about ZZ not on speedsolving with so many CFOP and some Roux resources).
 
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Learn full pll. It'll help. That last layer is pretty bad.
i did learn PLL when i avg 50sec but no OLL. i avg 3.75 sec on my PLLs.

thank you for the advice because im currently working VERY HARD my F2L(with little result) but you suggest otherwise.

And do you have a way to efficiently practice last layer? without doing solves over and over
 
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i did learn PLL when i avg 50sec but no OLL. i avg 3.75 sec on my PLLs.

thank you for the advice because im currently working VERY HARD my F2L(with little result) but you suggest otherwise.

And do you have a way to efficiently practice last layer? without doing solves over and over

There is a thread that shows the suggested breakdown perventages and yours are like exactly what it suggests, lol. I would work on your turn speed. At your speed I could sub-3 all or almost all plls. Try doing pll time attacks. Do all of your plls as fast as you can. Or do last layer scrambles and try to go as fast as possible. In OLL and PLL, just turn as fast as possible.
I suggest last layer because you'll probably get faster results.
 
I have been speedcubing for about 6 months now but I am still a bit confused on what 1st, 2nd and 3rd gen are. Can anyone clarify this or give me a link to a good explanation? Thanks
 
I have been speedcubing for about 6 months now but I am still a bit confused on what 1st, 2nd and 3rd gen are. Can anyone clarify this or give me a link to a good explanation? Thanks

I think you are referring to 1-gen, 2-gen, and 3-gen algs, gen standing for generator. If something is 2-gen, it means that it can be done by moving only two different faces or slices. If something is 3-gen, it can be done by moving only three different faces or slices.
 
When I resticker puzzles I usually keep the logo on as it is usually on the white. Would it be alright in competition if the logo sticker is a slightly different size than all the other stickers?
Yes, you can have a logo on whichever color you want, but make sure that it is on a center and that yu only have one per puzzle.
 
I would like to know how to loosen a v-cube 6. My friend got one yesterday and it was sooooo tight. With a lot of force, I managed to split the center layers and I discovered a screw under each center "intersection", like in a 2x2 speedcube. Is there a way to split the layer so I can access the screw or do I need to disassemble a whole layer? And is the screw even for tensions? If I had to disassemble it, where should I begin? I read on a thread that v-cubes 6 and 7 had NO screws at all. Then what happened with the v6? Is it a fake? Will I break the cube if I turned the screws? Need answers.
 
Is it normal for the aosu to lock up when doing reverse cutting?
If i turn U and the turn Rw', it cuts fine, but if I turn R', it goes, but the corner catches on the edge and locks.
Even worse is when I turn Uw and try to cut by turning R', it catches terribly. Reverse cutting on that is basically zero.
 
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