The One-Answer Question Thread [closed]

[pipkiksass]

I think the same. You can be very fast without CN too, for ex. Being able to recognize pieces just slightly faster and being able to use more inspection on your F2L pieces.

And being CN only really makes a difference if there's a really easy cross solution that isn't on your normal cross colour.

On average, statistically speaking, it saves <1 move per solve on the cross. For a 'normal' cuber, the time saved by one cross move will be far less than the time added by inferior f2l recognition.

Imho.

Edit: or go blue/green neutral, like Mats?

 

[Michael Womack]

Does anyone else have this problem on there Dayan 2x2 where the corner caps need to be pushed back together after a few solves?

 

[peterbone]

How many permutations of the Axis Cube are there that preserve the cube shape?

 

[scottishcuber]

Does anyone else have this problem on there Dayan 2x2 where the corner caps need to be pushed back together after a few solves?

I do.

Solution: Don't drop the cube so much.

 

[Michael Womack]

I do.

Solution: Don't drop the cube so much.

It's hard not to drop it when timing with a SpeedStack timer.

Anyone know how to fix this if I can? the problem is I connected my Speedstack timer to the computer and useing CStimer and I get some loud noses.

 

[Lchu613]

Use glue. Elmer's works fine.
You can also put a tiny dab of 50k or really thick lube on top of the slot hole thingy if you don't want it to be permanent, it kind of sticks it on.

 

[Lorenzo13335]

Can somebody please tell me what to do with my Fangshi Shuangren v2? I bought a DIY and I got 5 center peices on to the core. I CANT get the 6th peice. It is seriously just not going in the other ones were a little easier but still kind of hard. This has taken me 1+ hrs and I still can't get it on. Please tell me something I can do to get the 6th peice on the core. (I've already seen tutorials, they dont work) Thanks!

 

[Logical101]

I do.

Solution: Don't drop the cube so much.

Or you could glue the pieces together or put a small bit of Blu-Tack (other brands are available) between the pieces

 

[Phillip1847]

Last 5 pieces on what? On a 3x3? 4x4? Can be the 5 pieces anything and anywhere? E.g., Unsolved pieces are: UF, RB, DFL, DBL, UFR?

Sorry. On a 3x3, how many last layer last 5 pieces cases are there? Also last 5 pieces on the cube, but that might be rather difficult

 

[yoinneroid]

9[2C2E pll cases]*24[cases where corners are twisted]+9[2C2E pll cases]*12[cases where edges are flipped]+2(3E pll cases)*12(2 corner twist cases)*4(edges flip cases)+2(3C pll cases)*8(2 edges flip cases)*9+12(just flips and twists)
=9*24+9*12+2*12*4+2*8*9+12
=216+108+96+144+12
=576

not entirely sure this is true though, haven't accounted for duplicates and I think I miss some cases, not sure which ones

 

[Lorenzo13335]

I have a question. I got a Fangshi Shuangren v2 and when it is all assembled it is reaaallly shaky. The way I can describe it is if there is a little ball in my cube that is loose and is very loud and shaky. This is a DIY kit and I assembled it by myself and got the problem. I completely dissembled it and put everything back together following a tutorial. Nothing changed. On a shuangren there is a peice that adds on to the center peices but those are not loose I am sure of it. Different tension do not change it and the cube had the tightest tensions possible but still felt loose. Any ideas?

 

[brian724080]

I have a question. I got a Fangshi Shuangren v2 and when it is all assembled it is reaaallly shaky. The way I can describe it is if there is a little ball in my cube that is loose and is very loud and shaky. This is a DIY kit and I assembled it by myself and got the problem. I completely dissembled it and put everything back together following a tutorial. Nothing changed. On a shuangren there is a peice that adds on to the center peices but those are not loose I am sure of it. Different tension do not change it and the cube had the tightest tensions possible but still felt loose. Any ideas?

Sounds like you didn't insert the screws properly. It may also be that one of the pieces are defected.

 

[Lorenzo13335]

Sounds like you didn't insert the screws properly. It may also be that one of the pieces are defected.

Well I reassembled it taking cautious of the screws but it still didn't change. Any other thoughts maybe it could be because I am using a Shengshou 3x3 core since the core that came with my shaungren wouldn't fit the screws together so it's an impossible core so I used my old shengshous core.

 

[guysensei1]

From what I see, many people do F2L by 'hiding' the edge and pairing the corner over it.

I do it by hiding the corner in an empty slot and bringing it up, pairing the slot.

Which is better?

 

[Renslay]

From what I see, many people do F2L by 'hiding' the edge and pairing the corner over it.

I do it by hiding the corner in an empty slot and bringing it up, pairing the slot.

Which is better?

Use both of them, whichever is easier. Sometimes hiding the edge is more comfortable, but sometimes hiding the corner could be faster. Do some experiments.

 

[martydj123]

Hey, I don't know if this is the right thread to post in, but I'm new here and I just want some tips.
I've started cubing a month ago. My fastest time so far is 1:26 using the beginner method with some F2L, OLL and PLL algs mixed in. But for the most part, I solve the corners of the first layer instead of pair them with the 2nd layer with the CFOP method. Either intuitively or by memorizing algs, I can't seem to do Fridrich F2L yet. For the last layer, I first form a cross, then orient the corners and form a fish.

My question is this. How should I approach cubing?
I want to get faster, of course. At the moment, I just want to repeat my 1:26 feat. I average 2 minutes. I try the beginner method with a metronome, but I don't think that will help unless I learn a faster method. Should I do F2L first or OLL and PLL?
Someone told me that F2L should come intuitively so I should focus my memorization on OLL and PLL. Someone else said F2L first since it naturally comes first in solving a cube. For the first layer, it takes me around fifteen moves and around ten seconds to get the cross done. I need practice when it comes solving the cross in fewer moves. Someone suggested I should try planning it out first.
Then there are other non-layer-based methods. I'm taking an interest in the Petrus method, but it seems slower than Fridrich for me. Also, I was told to not even think about other methods (including Fridrich) until I get sub minute times with the one I currently use. Contrariwise, someone else said that learning F2L should be initiated immediately after you learn how to solve a cube with the beginner method, even if it takes you a century to finish it. So yeah, any tips?

 

[TDM]

Hey, I don't know if this is the right thread to post in, but I'm new here and I just want some tips.
I've started cubing a month ago. My fastest time so far is 1:26 using the beginner method with some F2L, OLL and PLL algs mixed in. But for the most part, I solve the corners of the first layer instead of pair them with the 2nd layer with the CFOP method. Either intuitively or by memorizing algs, I can't seem to do Fridrich F2L yet. For the last layer, I first form a cross, then orient the corners and form a fish.

My question is this. How should I approach cubing?
I want to get faster, of course. At the moment, I just want to repeat my 1:26 feat. I average 2 minutes. I try the beginner method with a metronome, but I don't think that will help unless I learn a faster method. Should I do F2L first or OLL and PLL?
Someone told me that F2L should come intuitively so I should focus my memorization on OLL and PLL. Someone else said F2L first since it naturally comes first in solving a cube. For the first layer, it takes me around fifteen moves and around ten seconds to get the cross done. I need practice when it comes solving the cross in fewer moves. Someone suggested I should try planning it out first.
Then there are other non-layer-based methods. I'm taking an interest in the Petrus method, but it seems slower than Fridrich for me. Also, I was told to not even think about other methods (including Fridrich) until I get sub minute times with the one I currently use. Contrariwise, someone else said that learning F2L should be initiated immediately after you learn how to solve a cube with the beginner method, even if it takes you a century to finish it. So yeah, any tips?

Welcome! This thread contains most of the information you need. For you, first learn 2-look OLL and 2-look PLL. After that, learn intuitive F2L. After you can do that, you probably understand the cube enough to look at different methods.

 

[Lchu613]

Well I reassembled it taking cautious of the screws but it still didn't change. Any other thoughts maybe it could be because I am using a Shengshou 3x3 core since the core that came with my shaungren wouldn't fit the screws together so it's an impossible core so I used my old shengshous core.

Post pictures with one layer removed

 

[Yuxuibbs]

What's the best/easiest way to resticker 5x5+ cubes with application tape? like entire face at once or like 3x3 blocks or something else? I don't like crooked stickers and I want to minimize bubbles but I don't want to spend hours putting every sticker on one by one by hand.

 

[~Adam~]

The One Answer Question Thread

What's the best/easiest way to resticker 5x5+ cubes with application tape? like entire face at once or like 3x3 blocks or something else? I don't like crooked stickers and I want to minimize bubbles but I don't want to spend hours putting every sticker on one by one by hand.

It's really tricky to apply stickers perfectly with application tape.

Personally I would just bite the bullet and apply by hand with a plastic razor blade.

Sorry

Goo gone cleans the old sticker residue of beautifully which will improve application.