The One-Answer Question Thread [closed]

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Dene said:
Erosion is a natural consequence of using the puzzles a lot. I think it's reasonable to assume that lubricating a cube slows down that process, and therefore not lubing would be worse-off. However I wouldn't worry too much about it. Ultimately, if you use the cube a hell of a lot erosion will occur.
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That was what I was trying to say. Just be sure to break it in, clean it, and lube with appropriate lubricant.
 
What's the best SS 5x5 florian mod tutorial? I have trouble following florian's video. (I'm going to use sandpaper to mod the entire thing)
Will I need florian cut stickers for the 5x5 after I florian mod it?

Is there a way to make the CX3 quieter/smoother without making it super slow?
EDIT: CX3 is already broken in and there's still the stock springs in there. It's already tensioned and lubed the way I like it .
 
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Yuxuibbs said:
1.What's the best SS 5x5 florian mod tutorial? I have trouble following florian's video. (I'm going to use sandpaper to mod the entire thing)
2.Will I need florian cut stickers for the 5x5 after I florian mod it?

Is there a way to make the CX3 quieter/smoother without making it super slow?
Click to expand...
1. Currently there is none. You could try and watch Cyoubx's 4x4 florian mod, it is much clearer. With Florians video it took me 2 5x5s to get a perfect one. My suggestion is infact to buy 2 and just assemble the cube with the best pieces when you're done. You'll save the frustration when/if you realize that the cube is not good enough and you need more pieces to replace the bad ones. Focus on making everything completely round, not almost round. How much you mod does not matter as much as how round the contact points are. And dont try to do it in one go, the quality of your work will go down towards the end.

With sandpaper you need atleast 2 different grits. 3 would be better. 1 very rough grit (80-120) to get the majority of the plastic off, one medium grit (200-250) to round the pieces and one fine grit (+500) to polish. Breaking in counts as polishing but it is much faster to do it with fine sand paper. With sandpaper the whole process will probably take like 6-8 hours I suppose.

2. Yes, even with a minor florian mod the holes are so big that some of the sticker gets in the way. You could just mod with the stickers already on if you dont mind the stickers looking a bit rugged.
 
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windhero said:
1. Currently there is none. You could try and watch Cyoubx's 4x4 florian mod, it is much clearer. With Florians video it took me 2 5x5s to get a perfect one. My suggestion is infact to buy 2 and just assemble the cube with the best pieces when you're done. You'll save the frustration when/if you realize that the cube is not good enough and you need more pieces to replace the bad ones. Focus on making everything completely round, not almost round. How much you mod does not matter as much as how round the contact points are. And dont try to do it in one go, the quality of your work will go down towards the end.

With sandpaper you need atleast 2 different grits. 3 would be better. 1 very rough grit (80-120) to get the majority of the plastic off, one medium grit (200-250) to round the pieces and one fine grit (+500) to polish. Breaking in counts as polishing but it is much faster to do it with fine sand paper. With sandpaper the whole process will probably take like 6-8 hours I suppose.

2. Yes, even with a minor florian mod the holes are so big that some of the sticker gets in the way. You could just mod with the stickers already on if you dont mind the stickers looking a bit rugged.
Click to expand...

Is it worth doing in your opinion?
I'll probably use a file and medium grit sand paper. I might try and get some fine grit sand paper.
 
Yuxuibbs said:
Is it worth doing in your opinion?
I'll probably use a file and medium grit sand paper. I might try and get some fine grit sand paper.
Click to expand...

Definitely yes. If you nail it the cube will be awesome. At my first comp many complimented me on how good my 5x5 is compared to theirs. I found out that with shengshou springs the 5x5 is "elastic" and kinda gives a little bit in. The cube feels more "together" and it can pop. With dayan springs it almost feels like the outer layer has a life of its own; It's very fast and loose but the cube never pops though it can lock up if you're very inaccurate. Inner layers have that shengshou feel with a little more speed. The biggest difference is definitely with how the outer layers feel.

I recommend you try and find some low grit sand paper, because sanding off some pieces will get on your nerves eventually. It's a very slow process. A few rubs with a low grit takes off a lot of plastic, after that a medium grit paper + a nail file makes the actual shaping much easier. The same work with just medium grit takes a lot longer.
 
Jander Clerix said:
ok thank you so just do them with old pochmann he?
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Nope. After doing the corners and edges, you should be left with two unsolved corners and two unsolved edges. Get them onto the same face, do a PLL, then undo the setup moves. I often force some pieces to be on the same face; when I use TuRBo I do solve the last edge, but then because you have to solve in pairs, I make my last target UB. Then, at the end of the edges, I'd have UF and UB swapped. If you do something like this with the corners too, then you don't need to setup to end with a PLL. And you'll always have the same PLL.

Here's an example:
U D F L' U L U' D' F U' F2 L' F L
Let's say UFR is your corner buffer. The first cycle is UFR>UBR>LUF, which is [U2 x: [R' U R, D']]. Next is UFR>DFL, but because we have parity, we make our last target another corner on the U layer, for example UFL (remember this is just an example; do whatever works best for you. You could have different buffers or prefer different PLLs). So we do UFR>DFL>UFL, which is [y' D2 L2: [x' R2: [R' U' R, D2]]] (setup to A perm). Now, do edges. I'll use TuRBo for this because I can't do edge comms. The first cycle is [U R: M U M' U2 M U M'], which leaves us with just two edges left. First target is obviously LF, because that solves what is in the buffer. Next target is one we choose on the U face; here I'll use UB. The alg is [U' F: [M2 U': [M,U2]]]. This leaves us with, as we tried to do, two swapped edges and two swapped corners on U, all oriented. We can then solve this with a PLL; here it's y' T perm.

As I said before, change this for your buffers and find what works best for you. This example is just to give you the general idea.
 
Can someone point me to the place where I can get the shade of stickers that are on the Maru CX3? Would it be under a 'standard' color of stickers?
 
Why no 4x4 home thread?

Hi all,

So I recently picked up my 4x4, which has been sat on the shelf for a few months since I bought it, and decided to work out how to solve it. I could do it intuitively, except for last 2 edges and LL parities. I looked up algs for these, found loads of old "Rubik's Revenge" sites with terrible algs but eventually found some I liked; memorised them, and solved away.

My conclusion: 4x4 is awesome!

After a few solves I was getting frustrated with my own copyright inefficient edge-pairing method (1,1,1,1,1,1,1,1,1,1,2! :p), so I looked for a Yau tutorial on Youtube. This was much better - I believe what I now do is something like 3, 1, 3, 3, 2? (3 cross edges, last cross edge, 3-slice-3-slice back, last 2 (if necessary). Much better!

Anyhow, I decided to come on here and discuss some stuff re: 4x4, and so searched. Other than someone complaining that parity algs are hard to memorise (I found a really good youtube vid about how to memorise an easy OLL parity alg, btw - not a fast or efficient alg, but easy to remember) I couldn't find any active 4x4 threads.

I'm surprised there's no stickied 4x4 home thread, pooling useful resources, such as beginner's tutorials, Yau tutorials, links to algs, etc... I think this would be really useful. It would also be a good place for people to ask questions about 4x4 without clogging up the forum with OAQT-style posts.

We have about a dozen similar threads for 3x3 (ZZ, Roux, practice, how to be sub-XX, etc..). I really think a thread like this would be a productive way to pool ideas and help for noobs like me. If anyone agrees then please feel free to comment with links to useful material, and I'll happily convert this to a 4x4 home thread, or start a new thread. If you disagree, then feel free to ignore me and go about your lives as if nothing ever happened!

:D
 
pipkiksass said:
Hi all,

So I recently picked up my 4x4, which has been sat on the shelf for a few months since I bought it, and decided to work out how to solve it. I could do it intuitively, except for last 2 edges and LL parities. I looked up algs for these, found loads of old "Rubik's Revenge" sites with terrible algs but eventually found some I liked; memorised them, and solved away.

My conclusion: 4x4 is awesome!

After a few solves I was getting frustrated with my own copyright inefficient edge-pairing method (1,1,1,1,1,1,1,1,1,1,2! :p), so I looked for a Yau tutorial on Youtube. This was much better - I believe what I now do is something like 3, 1, 3, 3, 2? (3 cross edges, last cross edge, 3-slice-3-slice back, last 2 (if necessary). Much better!

Anyhow, I decided to come on here and discuss some stuff re: 4x4, and so searched. Other than someone complaining that parity algs are hard to memorise (I found a really good youtube vid about how to memorise an easy OLL parity alg, btw - not a fast or efficient alg, but easy to remember) I couldn't find any active 4x4 threads.

I'm surprised there's no stickied 4x4 home thread, pooling useful resources, such as beginner's tutorials, Yau tutorials, links to algs, etc... I think this would be really useful. It would also be a good place for people to ask questions about 4x4 without clogging up the forum with OAQT-style posts.

We have about a dozen similar threads for 3x3 (ZZ, Roux, practice, how to be sub-XX, etc..). I really think a thread like this would be a productive way to pool ideas and help for noobs like me. If anyone agrees then please feel free to comment with links to useful material, and I'll happily convert this to a 4x4 home thread, or start a new thread. If you disagree, then feel free to ignore me and go about your lives as if nothing ever happened!

:D
Click to expand...

The 4x4 Discussion and Help thread
 
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