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PetraPine

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Psuedo FB
CLL/WCLL
Normal SB + EO
do OREO
Last 2 L R edges (l2lr?)
solve last two edges with final edge alg
(ROTATE)
L8E+E slice(which is actually pretty nice in columns) just solve l8e however and use M2 U2 before rotation or R2 U2 after to solve edges
(clarifications)
also it would be fairly efficient L8E because before the rotation you would only have to do L6E EO instead of L8E EO
Ask people who use pcms, literally just one d move out put nthe two edges, put back l6e those arnt awful ergonomics lol.
I don't use pcms, also youre prob wrong because you don't use it also this is just the most common approach not the approach for every solve
Also one D move and M U are not bad ergonomics
M2 and U to bring pieces to top layer than M U2 M'
 

PetraPine

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just did 2 example solves for my waterpcms variant thing,
am uploading them now(will take a while)
My L8E wasnt that effiecient in the solves, couldve done it better.
also i said in the video the last R edge beforeEO has to be the last L edges color or oppisite(this is not true) do any edge before EO and than whatever 2 edges would be left after EO do those.
(make sure after that last R edge only the First blocks top color and the other sides top or oppisite have the unsolved pieces
 
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PetraPine

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here's a version were you get L6E
1.Solve normal Waterman Block
2.psuedo Style second block
3.OREO
4.Solve middle layer
5.Rotate LSE
or
1.Solve Psuedo Waterman Block
2.Psuedo Style second block
3.OREO
4.Solve middle layer
5.Rotate LSE
 

PapaSmurf

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Here's what you've all been waiting for (I can guarantee that if it you saw a shooting star this would be what you would wish for), a direct solving 4x4 method that's speedsolving viable!

The steps are pretty simple and mirror CFOP/Zipper relatively well, there are 0 steps that reduce the cube to a 3x3. Also uses comms but equally could be used without a knowledge of them.

Step 1: Opposite centres with one that is your D colour, exactly the same as Yau.
Step 2: 3 cross edges, exactly the same as Yau.
Step 3: Last 4 centres, exactly the same as Yau.
Step 4: Final cross edge, exactly the same as Yau. (You could also pair up an F2L edge in the exact same way as Yau).
Step 5: F2L-1. This isn't the same as Yau. You solve the D corner and the wing that forms the F2L pair.
The way you recognise if the wing is the second or third layer wing is by firstly determining its orientation. If it is orientated (using ZZ rules) and is the final wing (going clockwise on U, F or B) out of the two on its dedge, it is the F2L wing. If it is bad and is the first one, it is the F2L wing. You could also use trial and error to develop a sense of knowing.
Step 6: Keyhole in 3 3rd layer edges by using the empty slot.
If the final slot is in FR, you can do Uw* to move the place you insert your wing to FR then you can insert the wing like any 3 move insert. Repeat for the other 2.
You can use R U R' F' R' F R to flip the wing from RFd to FRu.
Step 7: Finish F2L.
Step 8: CLL.
Step 9: L9W (last 9 wings). In this step you use either comms or intuition (and a parity alg when necessary) to solve the final 9 wings.
Using the base comms of [L u L', U*] and [y/Uw: [R' u' R, U*]], along with sledges/inserts, you can solve the wings fully intuitively (along with a parity alg). If you want to optimise it further, read the (extremely clear) Google doc linked. I'm going to make a video and I'll go most in depth into this step.
Obviously, the first 4 steps are exactly the same, so we can discount them.
Steps 5 and 7 are equal to F2L in Yau.
CLL is approximately equal to OLL.
Now we're left with 2 steps: F3L-1+L9W compared to PLL and 3-2-3 edge pairing. I would, at a guess, say that they're almost equal but it is definitely a lot harder to quantify. At the very worst, this method will only be a bit slower than Yau, but best case scenario it is slightly faster.
Parity is worse in this method than OLL by a very small amount but you don't have 2 parity algs to watch out for. Parity in this method is a lot more obvious than PLL parity too, so this would help a little bit to balance out any differences if it is worse.
Steps 1-4: Yau cross.
Step 5: F2L-1
Step 6: Keyhole in edges to give F(N-1)L-1.
Step 7: F2L
Step 8: Use K4 style F3L to finish the wings up to and including the edge (on a 5x5 this is inserting just the edge, on 6x6 it's the wing and on 7x7 it's the wing and the edge).
Step 9: CLL
Step 9b: ELL on odd layered cubes.
Step 10: L9W for each remaining layer.
Here's my Google doc with all the parity algs needed and an example solve. It also has some clarification for the final step and is very much a rough thing. Note that if you want a Hoya start instead, you can.

Any ideas to improve welcome! Also having people try this method out would be great too.
 

PetraPine

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This is a variant which I think is actually just better than the original 4x4 method
K4 method steps(original)
1.solve opposite centers
2.solve 3x4x1 (3 cross edges+2 corners
3.solve M slice centers
4.solve to the rest of the first layer
5.solve f3l
6.Cll
7.Ell with commutators.
Here's a website for the method,
And heres the fastest av I could find
I thought this was cool but was confused..
Why solve the first layer and than f3l edges..
Why not do f2l style,
Basically solve the corner with either of the f3l edges and insert it.
Than solve each of those corners like that, and insert the last edges with variants of
U R U' m' U R' U' m
New steps
1. Yau cross and centers.
2. Solve corners with 1 edge each.
3. Finish solving F3L
4. Cll ELL or edge orientation oll pll
Please tell my why I'm wrong about this being more efficient and having better finger tricks.

Forgot the last thing I did, you can solve three of the pairs and use keyhole to solve the rest of the edges, insert f3l pair and solve last edge
i did something very simular like a week ago
so did @Username: Username: before I
 
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