That's cps to weight, not cst to weight. I may be wrong but I think they're slightly different.

IDK though I just know that CBC uses 5000 cst stuff and doesn't say it's terrible or anything, so it must be about the right viscosity range.

Yes you're right, I guess I was tired when writing that response. cst = Centistoke, cps = centipoise.

http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/liquids/

there's a list of different products;

For example
22.5wt/238cSt
27.5wt/313cSt
32.5wt/388cSt
37.5wt/463cSt
42.5wt/538cSt
47.5wt/613cSt

5000 cps or cst however is a crappy lube. Way too viscous or runny. 50000 wt or 500 cst would be closer to something usable.
 
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That's strange as I'm very sure that CBC used 5000 cst Team Associated and he showed it, and it looked to be around the same viscosity as 50k
I've been confused on this for a while :P.

EDIT: I think the problem is thus far we've been looking at shock fluid. What I'm talking about is diff oil, maybe that's the problem?
 
That's strange as I'm very sure that CBC used 5000 cst Team Associated and he showed it, and it looked to be around the same viscosity as 50k
I've been confused on this for a while :P.

EDIT: I think the problem is thus far we've been looking at shock fluid. What I'm talking about is diff oil, maybe that's the problem?

That might be it; Low viscosity diff oil feels and looks like shock oil. It doesnt make much sense though since the scale should be of viscosity and it shouldnt matter what the fluid actually is. In this case they both are the exact same stuff too, pure silicone oil.


The difference in names apparently comes from rc-car terms;
shock oil is for compression like hydraulic oil and diff oil is for lubrication
shocks work by having a piston with small holes in it.. the amount or size of the holes, will change how fast the oil can be pushed thru as the shock compresses,the thicker/heavier the oil the slower/harder it is to push it thru the hole leaving you with stiffer shocks
What are people using on their ShengShou Mini 7x7s?

I have 50K traxxis, which I think might be too much. And Maru, which might not be enough. So is Shock Oil the next best thing? And what weight?

I'm using this: http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/5421/
on all my bigger cubes from 4x4 to 7x7. It's very fast and works kinda like a long lasting maru. Its not quite as fast as maru but it doesnt wear out in 2 solves either. Still much faster than 50k or 30k diff oil. Use the 50k on the core though, shock oil on pieces.
 
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I'm using this: http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/5421/
on all my bigger cubes from 4x4 to 7x7. It's very fast and works kinda like a long lasting maru. Its not quite as fast as maru but it doesnt wear out in 2 solves either. Still much faster than 50k or 30k diff oil. Use the 50k on the core though, shock oil on pieces.

Awesome, thanks!

I already have some 50K in the core to dampen the spring noises, so I got that covered.

So like Maru, I assume I don't have to put too much in there. I usually do 1 drop per Layer. On a Zanchi, it's perfect. So on a 7x7 = 7 drops. Would that be too much when it comes to 20wt?
 
Awesome, thanks!

I already have some 50K in the core to dampen the spring noises, so I got that covered.

So like Maru, I assume I don't have to put too much in there. I usually do 1 drop per Layer. On a Zanchi, it's perfect. So on a 7x7 = 7 drops. Would that be too much when it comes to 20wt?

I suggest you put 2 drops on one side, 2 on the opposite and work it in. If it still feels dry after like 3 solves, add 1-2 drops more in total, not on each side. Overlubing doesnt hurt, its just annoying if the lube overflows from the gaps and makes the stickers all gummy and slippery.
 
I recently lubed my Dayan Lunhui using CrazyBadCuber's lube tutorial. Is it normal for the cube to make your hands kind of lubey (I don't mean like a bunch, just enough to make your hands feel greasy)? If not, then what do I do to fix this?
 
I recently lubed my Dayan Lunhui using CrazyBadCuber's lube tutorial. Is it normal for the cube to make your hands kind of lubey (I don't mean like a bunch, just enough to make your hands feel greasy)? If not, then what do I do to fix this?
You can just wipe the lube off with a paper towel or something. (If it's on the stickers and stuff)
 
I recently lubed my Dayan Lunhui using CrazyBadCuber's lube tutorial. Is it normal for the cube to make your hands kind of lubey (I don't mean like a bunch, just enough to make your hands feel greasy)? If not, then what do I do to fix this?

I also have a Lunhui and found that it really doesn't need a whole lot of lube at all. If it's coming out the sides, you might've used too much.
 
I recently ordered a DaYan ZhanChifrom lightake and i have some questions regarding lubing and such.

I started cubing for a couple of months ago with a rubik's brand cube 3x3x3 and my average is about 36s. First I lubed my cube with vaseline and then I washed it out and aplied some silicone spray. I didn't notice such a big difference so I applied some vaseline to the core and so far this has worked out pretty good for me. Is this something you more experienced cubers would suggest using, because I've heard that vaseline might damage your cube.

I haven't recieved my ZhanChi yet, but what would you recommend for a DIY 55mm. I know lubix is great, but I live in Sweden and it's not that easy and really expensive to buy here. At least what I've seen and I've been looking around. p

Please help me, thanks!

Edvin
 
I recently ordered a DaYan ZhanChifrom lightake and i have some questions regarding lubing and such.

I started cubing for a couple of months ago with a rubik's brand cube 3x3x3 and my average is about 36s. First I lubed my cube with vaseline and then I washed it out and aplied some silicone spray. I didn't notice such a big difference so I applied some vaseline to the core and so far this has worked out pretty good for me. Is this something you more experienced cubers would suggest using, because I've heard that vaseline might damage your cube.

I haven't recieved my ZhanChi yet, but what would you recommend for a DIY 55mm. I know lubix is great, but I live in Sweden and it's not that easy and really expensive to buy here. At least what I've seen and I've been looking around. p

Please help me, thanks!

Edvin

Get differential oil. Vaseline will eat the plastic and ruin the cube. Don't use that on a zhanchi. Lubix is just differential oil so if you have any hobby shops around you or something, try to find differential oil in the 30k-50k range.
 
Get differential oil. Vaseline will eat the plastic and ruin the cube. Don't use that on a zhanchi. Lubix is just differential oil so if you have any hobby shops around you or something, try to find differential oil in the 30k-50k range.

So it's a no to the silicone spray then? I'm sorry for maybe being a bit slow, but i'm a total newbie regarding higher quality cubes! A big thanks for the response!
 
So it's a no to the silicone spray then? I'm sorry for maybe being a bit slow, but i'm a total newbie regarding higher quality cubes! A big thanks for the response!

CRC is fine but I wouldn't use it in a dayan cube (and especially not in a stickerless cube) because it kind of melts the plastic a little so if you put some in a stickerless cube, you get a rainbow discolored cube instead. I heard D39 is good though.
 
I said nothing about CRC...

But I have CRC, and I'm relatively sure it has tiny amounts of petroleum distillates in it. Regardless, this shouldn't have much effect over the natural breaking in. My point was that differential is generally better. Also CRC is NOT good on Dayans. It forms that white powder, and I'm guessing because of the plastic type it slows them down after a period.
 
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