First 4bld attempt will be Sunday. Just to clarify things

Is this fine?
Memo centers, edges, then corners.

Execute corners (fix corner parity with parity alg then a PLL (T))
Execute centers (commutators). No parity here
Execute edges (parity at the end if I have it)
Yeah that seems fine.
I memo: wings > centers > corners, then execute in the opposite order - probably not the best way to go about it, but it works fine for me.
As long as you're not forgetting things, any order should be fine.
For 5bld what do you guys do in terms of steps
Are all the commutators for + centers 8 movers? Like, will I need a setup?
Same with x centers.
I never look for the optimal comm for centers, here's how I approach the x-centers:
If the 2 targets are in the E-layer - I ALWAYS set up the pieces so that the interchange will happen in the E layer.
What parity algs do I need to know? Which steps of the solve?
This can be useful for parity: Rw2 F2 U2 r2 U2 F2 Rw2
Come up with your own way to use it based on what methods you use to solve the midges and corners. Make sure it's executed after the centers are solved.
 
Last edited:
multiple buffer pieces vs instead of using 1?
also using other plls instead of just J and Y help?
talking about OP mostly but m2 too for buffer question
 
What is the easiest way to solve a 4x4x4 blindfolded? I known Classic Pochmann and M2, but I still don't grok commutators.

For centers you can use U2.
It´s the easiest way, only a 3 very easy algorithms to learn and also very quick. Here´s a good tutorial: 4x4-Blindfolded-U2-Centers-Method-Tutorial
For corner Old Pochmann .
You can solve all Corner, if you solve an odd number of corners you have to swap the edges UB and UL with (L' U L U) (r2 U2 r2 (Uu)2 r2 u2) (U' L' U' L)
And for edges r2: That´s the same method like M2. (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mHx00ab2bp4)
 
Yeah that seems fine.
I memo: wings > centers > corners, then execute in the opposite order - probably not the best way to go about it, but it works fine for me.
As long as you're not forgetting things, any order should be fine.
Gotcha. I think I'm going to stick with the order I said. Makes sense for me.
I never look for the optimal comm for centers, here's how I approach the x-centers:
If the 2 targets are in the E-layer - I ALWAYS set up the pieces so that the interchange will happen in the E layer.
Makes sense. I don't look for optimal (normally is move optimal), but it turns out to be that way anyway. I should make sure to memo x and + centers differently? I assume I'll just have eto make up my own lettering scheme?
This can be useful for parity: Rw2 F2 U2 r2 U2 F2 Rw2
Thanks, not entirely sure how parity would arise (what page (I assume there is one) is good for explaining how parity occurs in 5bld?)...
Come up with your own way to use it based on what methods you use to solve the midges and corners. Make sure it's executed after the centers are solved.

For midges, would I just solve it M2 style? Aka look at , etc, and go from there?
I plan on just memoing, then doing solving of:
Corners
+ centers, x centers
midges
wings (I assume it'll be the same as r2 for 4bld, exactly)

Sorry for the questions, but as some ofyou might remember when i first started BLD, I like to ask a TON of questions to make sure I know for sure what to do :).
 
For centers you can use U2.
It´s the easiest way, only a 3 very easy algorithms to learn and also very quick. Here´s a good tutorial: 4x4-Blindfolded-U2-Centers-Method-Tutorial
For corner Old Pochmann .
You can solve all Corner, if you solve an odd number of corners you have to swap the edges UB and UL with (L' U L U) (r2 U2 r2 (Uu)2 r2 u2) (U' L' U' L)
And for edges r2: That´s the same method like M2. (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mHx00ab2bp4)

Thank you very much!
 
I should make sure to memo x and + centers differently?
I'm not sure what you mean, they're different pieces so you will have to memorise them differently.
I assume I'll just have eto make up my own lettering scheme?
You can make the center lettering scheme very similar to your scheme on the 3x3:
x centers can represent 3x3 corners, with 2 additional letters.
+ centers can represent 3x3 edges, with 2 additional letters.
Thanks, not entirely sure how parity would arise (what page (I assume there is one) is good for explaining how parity occurs in 5bld?)...
If you have odd corners (parity) and you solve the midges and corners however you normally would on a 3x3, two pairs of wings will be swapped in some way, so you use Rw2 F2 U2 r2 U2 F2 Rw2 to fix them.
For midges, would I just solve it M2 style? Aka look at , etc, and go from there?
I plan on just memoing, then doing solving of:
Corners
+ centers, x centers
midges
wings (I assume it'll be the same as r2 for 4bld, exactly)
M2 is fine, if you decide to execute the midges before the centers - make sure you use center friendly comms for shooting to UF and DB.
And If you execute the corners before the centers and you're not using comms - take into account that Y-perm rotates the U center ccw 90 degrees.
 
Last edited:
Hi guys. I need help with M2 method
1. Can i solve edges first?
2. For now i have a case, when DF piece should go to UB (centers aren't swapped). I just do an M2. But then DF edge should also go to UB. (All edges except those two are in place and correctly oriented). What am i doing wrong?((
 
1. Can i solve edges first?
Sure, you can! It´s almost easier. Just do the Parity-Alg if you swapped an odd number of edges, and then do the corners without worry about the parity. I´m also solving edges first when I´m doing multi-bld, but for single solves corners and than edges.

For now i have a case, when DF piece should go to UB (centers aren't swapped). I just do an M2. But then DF edge should also go to UB. (All edges except those two are in place and correctly oriented). What am i doing wrong?((
2. Just do one time M2 to bring the UB piece from DF to UB (so UB and DF are solved, but centers are swapped), now you must have swiched an odd number of edges (if there aren´t any unsolved edges) so you need to do the Parity alg: U' F2 U M2 ' F2 U
Now all centers and edges are correct, except UB and UL, which are swapped. But when you solve the corners with Old Pochman (Y-Perm), these will swapp automatically.
 
how do you guys solve the parity on 3x3 BLD with BH?
as i use UB as buffer what I do is pochmann algorithm or r2 U2 R' F R U2 r2 F L F' L' if needed and then the cycle UB UL first sticker memorized
but sometimes i miss some T perm orienting corners, speccially if i use another buffer instead of UBL
wich algs do yo use?
 
how do you guys solve the parity on 3x3 BLD with BH?
as i use UB as buffer what I do is pochmann algorithm or r2 U2 R' F R U2 r2 F L F' L' if needed and then the cycle UB UL first sticker memorized
but sometimes i miss some T perm orienting corners, speccially if i use another buffer instead of UBL
wich algs do yo use?

I solve corners first, and make sure that UBL and URB is swapped, and then setup into a PLL, preferably T or R, since I use UF as edge buffer.
 
Jakube, thank you for your reply! And i have another portion of questions. Can i replace my M2 method with another one?I find it difficult to understand & memorize (when centers are swapped, another alg for m-slice edges, etc.). I have competitions in next saturday, and want to learn how to solve edges BLD.

Or, can you just help me with some scrambles using M2 / old pochman?:)
 
:P Its only been 5 hours, and you are still the only question on the page xD There is really no reason to bump.

As for the question: I was thinking of buying those same exact cubes. My friend, who spends a Lot of time on the forum, said it would not be a good idea to get all the same kind, I should get a few of the cheap Cs, a few As, etc.

My _guess_ is that it would be a better question for the hardware OAQT, but then again, it doesnt really matter.


Edit: Also its WAY cheaper on witeden.com
 
Hi guys, I am about to place my order of 16 cubes from Lightake: http://lightake.com/detail.do/sku.3x3x3_Type_A_Magic_Cube_2nd_Gen_Black-24560

Are these cubes good? Sturdy and nice for MBLD? Do they lock alot, are they clicky, smooth? I do not want Ghosthand smooth, that sucks. I want Haiyan Memory clicky :D
I was hoping someone with good knowledge of the different cube types would answer. My answer is better than nothing though.

I have some A2s, a couple of them are really good, and the rest are not so good, they seem like a slightly different make.
In my opinion they're good for multi, but wouldn't really qualify for anything else. Don't often pop but are pretty slow, then again I got my A2s second hand and haven't lubed them since.
I'm still unsure of what cubes I will buy for multi, possibly the type C (C3 I think).

I would love to know what cubes Chuck used in his 50/54 multi.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top