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Cubing5life

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I've long been using this alg for Ub perm for a long time: R2 U F B’ R2 F’ B U’ R2

But most people seem to prefer this one: R2 U R U R’ U’ R’ U’ R’ U R’

Should I switch algs for U perms, and if so, why?

I'm inclined to stick with the alg I know since it has fewer moves, and I feel quite fast and comfortable with it, but there must be a reason most people seem to prefer the other one. The alg I'm using does require a y' rotation from the position where the other one would be performed. Is one position more likely than the other after OLL?
I think your alg isn‘t bad at all if you can fingertrick it the right way. The other alg is just more popular and more people use it. And btw, you shouldn‘t rotate for PLL execution (just AUF) or recognition (learn better recognition>2-sided PLL recognition).
 

swburk

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I've been using M2 U' M U2 M' U' M2 and M2 U M U2 M' U M2 as my U perms, which I really like. My only issue is that I'm having trouble getting my M move consistently. M2 and M' I can do without issue every time, but using my ring finger to push the M slice up is a bit harder. Do you have any tricks for getting this more consistently? Or maybe even a different finger trick for it entirely.

EDIT: Yes, I switched to this after asking about my old U perm algs above. I found this while practicing my H and Z perms, and decided to try them out.
 

Cubing5life

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Messages
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Location
Probably some tennis court
I've been using M2 U' M U2 M' U' M2 and M2 U M U2 M' U M2 as my U perms, which I really like. My only issue is that I'm having trouble getting my M move consistently. M2 and M' I can do without issue every time, but using my ring finger to push the M slice up is a bit harder. Do you have any tricks for getting this more consistently? Or maybe even a different finger trick for it entirely.

EDIT: Yes, I switched to this after asking about my old U perm algs above. I found this while practicing my H and Z perms, and decided to try them out.
Maybe you could try to put your right hand (or whichever hand does the Ms) a bit more ‘underneath‘ the cube and just try to hit the middle of the M layer.
 
Last edited:

BenChristman1

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I've been using M2 U' M U2 M' U' M2 and M2 U M U2 M' U M2 as my U perms, which I really like. My only issue is that I'm having trouble getting my M move consistently. M2 and M' I can do without issue every time, but using my ring finger to push the M slice up is a bit harder. Do you have any tricks for getting this more consistently? Or maybe even a different finger trick for it entirely.

EDIT: Yes, I switched to this after asking about my old U perm algs above. I found this while practicing my H and Z perms, and decided to try them out.
To practice my M move, I just spammed U perms over and over and over. There really isn't much else you can do. The ring finger push is the best way to do an M move in my opinion. Doing this also helps improve your U perm overall.
 

Sub1Hour

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No, like are there other ways to magnetize a 3x3 (other than the usual corner-edge pairing strat)?
I remember cyoubx talking about a 16 magnet design (8 on the core, and 8 on the corner pieces), but I think there might be other ways to magnetize a cube with less magnets.
12 magnet* design from Chris Tran


*other magnets are used but they have been de-magnetized
 

Skewb_Cube

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May 7, 2020
Messages
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Which V-perm is better to use, (R' U R' U') y R' F' (R2 U' R' U) R' F R F or R U' R U R' D R D' R U' D R2 U R2 D' R2 ?
 

xyzzy

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Dec 24, 2015
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No, like are there other ways to magnetize a 3x3 (other than the usual corner-edge pairing strat)?
I remember cyoubx talking about a 16 magnet design (8 on the core, and 8 on the corner pieces), but I think there might be other ways to magnetize a cube with less magnets.
The absolute bare minimum of magnets you can use so that:
(i) it still counts as a magnetic cube of some sort and
(ii) different pieces (of the same type) will always have the same magnetic pull, no matter how the cube is scrambled
should be 7: one in each of the centre pieces and one big steel ball to serve as the core. The magnets would be replacing the functionality of the screws.

Of course, that's a silly idea. (Or is it…?)
 
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The absolute bare minimum of magnets you can use so that:
(i) it still counts as a magnetic cube of some sort and
(ii) different pieces (of the same type) will always have the same magnetic pull, no matter how the cube is scrambled
should be 7: one in each of the centre pieces and one big steel ball to serve as the core. The magnets would be replacing the functionality of the screws.

Of course, that's a silly idea. (Or is it…?)
Only one magnet is needed: it could be one big magnet ball with de-magnetized magnets in other pieces (either edges or corners or both)
 

fadsarmy

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Jun 1, 2020
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Does your mind ever go blank when solving oll/pll and you just can't recall the alg even though you've used it a 1000 times?
 

Skewb_Cube

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Does your mind ever go blank when solving oll/pll and you just can't recall the alg even though you've used it a 1000 times?

I learned full OLL a month ago and full PLL three months ago and that have happen to me, but only when I just finish learning those algs sets. Maybe you could drill your algorithms more.

If you just finish learning OLL and PLL, then it's normal.
 

xyzzy

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Dec 24, 2015
Messages
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Does your mind ever go blank when solving oll/pll and you just can't recall the alg even though you've used it a 1000 times?
Happens to me with the RUD G perms sometimes.

How is a 4D cube supposed to work?
Take a step back and consider the simpler question: how does a 3D cube work?

In three dimensions, we have a 3×3×3 stack of little cubes, where the faces of the little cubes facing the outside are clean and the faces that aren't facing outside all have a little bit of reusable adhesive on them so they're sticky (like Post-it notes). Performing a move is equivalent to peeling off a 3×3×1 layer, then reattaching that layer in any orientation with the sticky side inwards.

In four dimensions, it's the same thing, except with one more dimension. We have a stack of 3×3×3×3 little hypercubes, and performing a move is equivalent to peeling off a 3×3×3×1 layer (which consists of 27 hypercubies now), then reattaching it in any orientation, again with the sticky side inwards. Here, for each of the 4D cube's eight faces, there are 23 possible moves you can make, unlike the 3D cube where the only possibilities are either 90° clockwise, 90° anticlockwise, or 180°.

(By this definition, the two-dimensional analogue of a Rubik's Cube doesn't have any moves you can make at all. Peel off a 3×1 strip of squares, and the only way you can place it back is in exactly the same orientation you peeled it off in. But that's boring, which is why most puzzle games touted as 2D equivalents of the Rubik's Cube don't follow this rule.)
 

fadsarmy

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Joined
Jun 1, 2020
Messages
65
I've been using M2 U' M U2 M' U' M2 and M2 U M U2 M' U M2 as my U perms, which I really like. My only issue is that I'm having trouble getting my M move consistently. M2 and M' I can do without issue every time, but using my ring finger to push the M slice up is a bit harder. Do you have any tricks for getting this more consistently? Or maybe even a different finger trick for it entirely.

EDIT: Yes, I switched to this after asking about my old U perm algs above. I found this while practicing my H and Z perms, and decided to try them out.
I've seen a few people do r' R for M which is much easier.
 
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