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How fast should I be after 2-3 months of cubing? I am about 30-40 seconds average right now and its fluctuates quite a bit.

There are too many factors to decide really. It depends on how much you practise, how smart you practise, what you practise, what you've learned etc. Some people are at 30 after a year, some sub-15 in a few months. There is too much variation.
 
One-Answer | How to recognize difference between Gd and Gb

So... whenever the headlights face me and I recognize it as a G perm, what should I look for to distinguish between Gc and Gd? I know they're opposites, but I'm not sure what to do for the 2-sided recognition.
 
So... whenever the headlights face me and I recognize it as a G perm, what should I look for to distinguish between Gc and Gd? I know they're opposites, but I'm not sure what to do for the 2-sided recognition.
With G(d), the headlights have an opposite edge in between, but with G(c), the headlights have an adjacent edge in between them.

However, you're probably talking about G(d) and G(b), which both have an opposite edge in between the headlights. With G(d), there's an opposite edge (in respect to the left headlight corner) on the left side and an adjacent edge (in respect to the right headlight corner) on the right side. With G(b), it's the opposite, with an opposite edge on the right and an adjacent edge on the left. That should be sufficient for 2-sided recognition. Hope this helped!
 
Common pattern when solving, did I mess up the cube?

Occasionally, when trying to get all of the top layer yellow, I run into this pattern, where the corner is flipped (Bottom is white): cd852f1fa5.jpg 7b4433381b.jpg

I went onto an online cube solver and entered in the cube's colors, and it tells me that it is unsolvable. Did I accidentally flip the corner while performing an algorithm? This has happened several times :/
 
Occasionally, when trying to get all of the top layer yellow, I run into this pattern, where the corner is flipped (Bottom is white):View attachment 6053 View attachment 6054

I went onto an online cube solver and entered in the cube's colors, and it tells me that it is unsolvable. Did I accidentally flip the corner while performing an algorithm? This has happened several times :/

Yes, if your F2L is solved, then that is an impossible case. You must have inadvertently twisted a corner.
 
which VLS alg sets are the most useful? I know winter variation already so should I learn UB next or no edges or what?
 
I am looking for a weird beginner last layer method.

You first orient the edges with F sexy F'. Then you use a Sune to position the edges while not caring about corner orientation. (not the normal way to use a Sune, but it works) And then there is a weird trigger, I think R'D'RD (but I don't know how many times...), that you use to bring one arbitrary corner to the bottom layer, messing up your F2L in the process. Then you turn the top layer to put the target corner for the corner you started with above the corner in the bottom layer. You do R'D'RD until the corner is correctly oriented in the top and the next corner is in the bottom layer. Then you adjust the top layer s.t. the next target corner is above your working corner. You repeat until all corners are fixed.

Sometimes when I do it, it works and when I finish, the F2L is magically fixed. But not always. Sometimes the F2L is messed up in the end. I have no idea what I am doing wrong or what additional things I need to do. Does anyone know this method and can shed some light on it?

Btw, I am not planning to replace my full OLL + full PLL with this method. I just want to learn it out of interest.

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I am looking for a weird beginner last layer method.

You first orient the edges with F sexy F'. Then you use a Sune to position the edges while not caring about corner orientation. (not the normal way to use a Sune, but it works) And then there is a weird trigger, I think R'D'RD (but I don't know how many times...), that you use to bring one arbitrary corner to the bottom layer, messing up your F2L in the process. Then you turn the top layer to put the target corner for the corner you started with above the corner in the bottom layer. You do R'D'RD until the corner is correctly oriented in the top and the next corner is in the bottom layer. Then you adjust the top layer s.t. the next target corner is above your working corner. You repeat until all corners are fixed.

Sometimes when I do it, it works and when I finish, the F2L is magically fixed. But not always. Sometimes the F2L is messed up in the end. I have no idea what I am doing wrong or what additional things I need to do. Does anyone know this method and can shed some light on it?

Btw, I am not planning to replace my full OLL + full PLL with this method. I just want to learn it out of interest.

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Yeah, that's kind of a beginners method and it should always work unless you have a corner twist during the solve and, in that case you orient the corner but mess the f2l up. If that's not the case maybe you have done something wrong, like not orienting all the corners over the same spot or something like that. I use this same method for Megaminx LL because I have not learned specific algs for it. You did not mention what you use to permute corners, by the way. Do you permute them before or after orienting? and how? Just out of curiosity
 
I thought this method can be used to do BOTH corner permutation and corner orientation. And a few times, it also worked for me. But sometimes it doesn't. For doing only orientation, it works for me.

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I thought this method can be used to do BOTH corner permutation and corner orientation. And a few times, it also worked for me. But sometimes it doesn't. For doing only orientation, it works for me.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

Oh, well, maybe I'm missing something but I think you are either mixing two things or not doing it correctly you can use R'D'RD repeatedly to orient corners, you will have to do it either 2 or 4 times depending on the original orientation, then do a U/U'/U2 to bring over the next corner until you are done orienting all of them. F2L should be restored after that.

And you can use a similar idea as a corner commutator, which is R' D R, storing a wrongly permuted corner in the bottom layer, then you do U/U'/U2 to bring over the spot where it needs to be and do R' D' R to put it in place, while storing a new corner, repeat until you put the last corner in place, thus restoring the bottom layer corner again where it belongs, restoring F2L.

Whether both these can be combined to orient AND permute at the same time with less moves I don't know, maybe it's possible.

For my Mega LL I either use this R' D R R' D' R comm or Niklas to permute corners and a variation of the R'D'RD for orientation, which is (R F' R' F)x2 or (F' R F R')x2 on each corner depending on the orientation. Of course, you can also do the same with your orientation trigger to avoid doing it 4 times, you just have to do it backwards (D' R' D R)x2 and it will twist the corner clockwise instead of counter-cw.
 
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Are there any guides, tips, etc for how to orient just the F2L edges? like not orienting all the edges, just the 8 edges that get solved in F2L.

I'm guessing it would be easier to just learn how to ZZ correctly but I don't have time
 
Feliks has a video on his YouTube channel.

title of the video (or even the link)?

If you're talking about Feliks Zemdegs and the video titled "Orienting edges during F2L," that's not what I'm looking for

I basically want a way to think about how to do EO (before or while doing cross) so that I can do F2L with just RUL moves (LL edge orientation doesn't matter)
so kind of like a how to orient edges before F2L
 
title of the video (or even the link)?

If you're talking about Feliks Zemdegs and the video titled "Orienting edges during F2L," that's not what I'm looking for

I basically want a way to think about how to do EO (before or while doing cross) so that I can do F2L with just RUL moves (LL edge orientation doesn't matter)
so kind of like a how to orient edges before F2L

Just do ZZ edge orientation but ignore the edges with your top face color on them?
 
Are there any guides, tips, etc for how to orient just the F2L edges? like not orienting all the edges, just the 8 edges that get solved in F2L.

I'm guessing it would be easier to just learn how to ZZ correctly but I don't have time

Recognition is easy. If the front or back colour is on the right or left or can bd brought to tge right or left with U or D, then the edge is misoriented.

To orient a bad edge, put it on the front or back face do an F or F' move, swap it with another edge by doing an R U L move and then undo the F or F'.

It will take a while to get used to doing it in a speed solve, and I honestly think ZZ EO is quick and easy to learn. It took me a day as a complete beginner (averaging 2 minutes with beginner method) to learn EO.
 
I basically want a way to think about how to do EO (before or while doing cross) so that I can do F2L with just RUL moves (LL edge orientation doesn't matter)
Phil from the cubicle (asmallkitten on YT) has a great tutorial on ZZ, you should just use ZZ edge orientation while placing the other two cross edges, since that's basically what you're describing.
 
title of the video (or even the link)?

If you're talking about Feliks Zemdegs and the video titled "Orienting edges during F2L," that's not what I'm looking for

I basically want a way to think about how to do EO (before or while doing cross) so that I can do F2L with just RUL moves (LL edge orientation doesn't matter)
so kind of like a how to orient edges before F2L

(after cross) Hold your cube in one orientation. Find an F2L edge in the top layer and bring it to FU position. If the color of the top sticker the *same* or *opposite* as the color of the front face, then it is oriented, and move on to the next edge. If it is not the same or opposite, sledgehammer and move on to the next edge
 
Is this a valid J A or J B perm i learnt it somewhere bit it doesn't work on a scramble but when i do it on a solved cube it works ? R' U L' U2 R U' R' U2 R L execute with bar facing you
 
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