So I just wiped out my Valk 3, and im looking to make it buttery smooth with adequate speed. Any reccomendations? My guess to acheving this would be Lubicle One, DNM and maybe a heavier silicone lube on the tracks, and maybe some silk?
TheCubicle Weight 5 and Lubicle Speedy.
 
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Dignitas is really annoying to work with in my experience. I would say Weight 5 on the Tracks, 2 drops of Lubicle Silk and 2 drops of Lubicle speedy. However, if where you live is relatively humid such as the east coast of the US, Kansas, or Oregon/Washington, then I would recommend DNM-37 because in high altitudes like Utah there is not enough water in the air to make DNM last long.
 
Any advice on how to make the RS3M 2020 fast ? I am a N00b, just going under the 1-minute mark. My absolutely best cube is the GTS3M. I save it for my speed sessions.
My RS3M got some 5000 cSt diff oil on the screws washer to remove spring noise. And i used some almost watery acid-free sewing machine oil on the tracks. I know it might be bad for the plastic (but the nylon tracks can endure it), so will remove when I get better oil. Added some 2mm N35 magnets to edges. Still not as strong as the GTS3M but close enough.

I keep adjusting it. Currently I have the adjustment thing all the way down (losest setting), and I find it a bit too wobbly, but this is the closes I get to the low turning resistance I am after.

I just ordered some 100, 1000 and 15000 cSt silicone oil to have more options, and get the mineral oil out.
 
Has anyone ever used a torque screwdriver to setup a cube? I don’t see much discussion about it on the forums but I can’t be the first person to have thought about it. While I understand that it’s not NECESSARY to achieve satisfactory tensioning results the engineering & precision minded part of my brain thinks it could work very well for getting exact and even tensions all around a cube. Anyone have results to share?
(I just noticed this because the thread got bumped.)

Not a torque screwdriver, but a depth gauge:
 
(I just noticed this because the thread got bumped.)

Not a torque screwdriver, but a depth gauge:
Sounds like something to try with a caliper. When re-assembling my RS3M I wondered how to get it perfect.
 

Try and find this online. It even comes with moyu flagships. And t helps with gettingeven tensions
 
(I just noticed this because the thread got bumped.)

Not a torque screwdriver, but a depth gauge:
Thanks. I might get one of those since they’re a cheaper. I’ve been really intrigued lately about how to unnecessarily achieve perfectly even tensions. I would like to accurately and directly measure force in the spring but that’s proved to be a true challenge to do DIRECTLY without additional correlations, calculations, or measurements. Assuming my speings are all equal and using a dial gauge may be my best alternative..F=kx, hooke’s law is quite useful after all.


Try and find this online. It even comes with moyu flagships. And t helps with gettingeven tensions
Thanks. I agree that could work but I’m talking about achieving extreme precision in my tensioning. I understand there’s many ways to tension a cube for daily use without ridiculously complicated tools I’m inquiring about.
 
The tool measure the other way. Basically you tighten the screws until the center piece is tight against the tool.
Should be easy to 3D print yourself. That means fully compressed spring or the sides will be off.

The caliper (or any flat object with something sticking out) going down to the screw head only works on a fully assembled cube, where the edge columns (which are not compressible) are pressing the centers away from the core. Depends on screw head being more or less the same. So I assume that is better, or maybe more or less the same.

I can see I have 2.1mm screw depth on my lose RS3M (caliper method). So any flat thing with a 2.1mm bump could allow be to set screw-heads to same depth, and then adjust turns from there. thread gives same movement per turn. You can one from cardboard. Or glue a piece of a match on any straight surface. My matches are around 2.2mm square.

This is such a simple solution. Next time a flat piece of hard plastic at least 25mm square I will glue 10mm pice of a match to it, and try it. Thinking of 3D printing one - but my printer is down,

So basically turn screw in until it is more than 2.2mm in, but "tool" on top. If it touched screw head, screw must go further in. It it just doesn't touch, it is far enough in. Repeat for all 6 pieces. Then they are all calibrated to same depth. Then adjust one side to perform as wanted.Then notice how far you turn the screw for final adjustment, and give all the remaining screws same number of turns.

This method can be applied with things most people already have in the household. The caliper/depth gauge just measure something and tells you how far off you are. The simple tool just tells you if too far our or in.

So all you need is a flat thing, at least 25mm wide, and a 2.2mm approx even height bump on the middle.
 
Sorry to hear that dude. That sucks bad. Look into the Tengyun after you get your money back.


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Bro, I know what is your problem. I have exactly the same issue but sadly it's not fixable. So step one. disassemble your cube (broken one), step two. make sure the core is just "BY HIMSELF" So basically. I guess you should see the core is already broken. Mine as well. For myself, there is a little small crack that made the cube broken. MAKE SURE YOU LOOK AT THE CORE CLOSELY. I have discovered the problem like yesterday or so.
 
What are the default settings on the GAN 356M? I have the XS and I've been struggling to find a good tension, but apparently the 356M comes in a pretty good setup ootb, so I was wondering exactly what IPG number/nut comes default on that cube.
 
What are the default settings on the GAN 356M? I have the XS and I've been struggling to find a good tension, but apparently the 356M comes in a pretty good setup ootb, so I was wondering exactly what IPG number/nut comes default on that cube.
Pretty sure its blue with 8.0, but I like the yellow on 0.6
 
I got the gan i carry a few days ago and the cube felt a little bit tight out of the box so i decided to change the nuts from transparent to green.
I was swapping the nuts and they all worked fine until i reached the white side where i couldn't get the transparent nut off. There is like a push and twist mechanism to it. Idk why there is an issue like this.
If anyone has any advice please let me know.
 
It’s a push and twist to a certain position. Are you not able to push it in at all? Or not able to twist it? Or is it just not coming off once you push and twist it to the correvt position?
 
It’s a push and twist to a certain position. Are you not able to push it in at all? Or not able to twist it? Or is it just not coming off once you push and twist it to the correvt position?
I know how the mechanism works and it works on all other sides. I can push the nut in very little with a lot of force. I cant twist the center thing to release it. no i cant get it to the release position.

Any photo of the side which gave the problem to you will be helpful.
it looks identical to the other sides although the white and yellow center twisty things are yellow but others are transparent (yellow side works fine) IMG_4214.jpeg
 
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Does it seem that you can’t push the nut in far enough for the core foot to clear the top of the nut?

69b92032a541228d2fd0c5937da6f57f.jpg


Have you tried removing all the other cubies so you’re left just with this one center cube and seeing underneath why it’s not pushing down all the way?
 
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