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Dec 8, 2017
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I am also sub 30 cfop looking to switch to roux. I was looking at the roux wiki page and it suggests that ignoring centers while solving blocks might be a good idea. Is this really practical? If it is a good idea, I want to learn it now as I am just starting, because it seems like it would be hard to switch to doing that once I am confident with roux.
The wiki page also talks solving two blocks that don't match. How much will being able to create non matching blocks help getting fast times? And would it be a good idea to just do two possibilities for the second block instead of four. It seems like that could make last layer recognition a lot easier.
If you are talking about the UDFB centers, you should definitely ignore those when solving your blocks. But, as the post above says, non-matching centers is a great technique. I personally use it a lot, and it has got me many a good time.

Solving non-matching blocks, however, is not very common, mainly because look ahead is much more difficult. I will try it every now and then if I see a really easy second block solution, but it usually isn't worth it.

BTW, I think the speed at which you average right now it the perfect time to try out Roux. Go for it! I never regretted it. I switched when I was averaging about 25, and after 2 months with Roux, I was back to my global average, and had gotten my first sub 15, a 12, with Roux. Even if you don't stick with it, the skills you learn are going to help you immensely with any method.
 

shadowslice e

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I am also sub 30 cfop looking to switch to roux. I was looking at the roux wiki page and it suggests that ignoring centers while solving blocks might be a good idea. Is this really practical?
Non matching centres is a reasonably useful technique though I wouldn't suggest starting out with it as it is only better in a very small number of circumstances. It's actually reasonably easy to learn to do it.
The wiki page also talks solving two blocks that don't match. How much will being able to create non matching blocks help getting fast times? And would it be a good idea to just do two possibilities for the second block instead of four. It seems like that could make last layer recognition a lot easier.
Similar to the above, this can be useful but I wouldn't recommend starting out with it. There are a handful of reasonably fast rouxers (including myself and Ryan) who do use NMB reasonably regularly. However, even then it's used only once in maybe 25 solves and only if the second block is much easier.

Ergo, I would recommend just starting with normal blocks and learning the more complicated stuff later.
 

Juqe

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Similar to the above, this can be useful but I wouldn't recommend starting out with it. There are a handful of reasonably fast rouxers (including myself and Ryan) who do use NMB reasonably regularly. However, even then it's used only once in maybe 25 solves and only if the second block is much easier.

i did not know that your are using Non Matching Blocks (and who is Ryan). How do you deal with the problems I mentioned above?( CMLL recog, could not find a guide anywhere.. or rather learning by doing? And what about LSE, I guess EOLR is not made for NMB - the only way I could imagine is using LMCF L6E step - what's your strat?)
 

shadowslice e

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i did not know that your are using Non Matching Blocks (and who is Ryan).
I'll not mention his full name here but suffice to say he's a fairly fast (sub-10 2h/sub-15 oh) rouxer. He actually used it in an official solve at worlds.
How do you deal with the problems I mentioned above?( CMLL recog, could not find a guide anywhere.. or rather learning by doing?
A bit of both. I do a fair amount of experimenting and playing around with the method. NMB is probably only useful (and I only really implement it) at an R2 from solved. This makes recog easier (using normal cmll and some logic you can get it down to two cases and from there you need maybe one more sticker).
And what about LSE, I guess EOLR is not made for NMB - the only way I could imagine is using LMCF L6E step - what's your strat?)
EOLR works the same, you just use (say) UL and DR as opposed to UL and UR so LSE is done basically as normal but you finish with an R2 (or r2 or something if you're smart and cancel).

Like I said above though, I would focus on normal blockbuilding before experimenting with things like this as it's better to be able to blockbuild efficiently than be able to do all the tricks inefficiently.
 

Juqe

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EOLR works the same, you just use (say) UL and DR as opposed to UL and UR so LSE is done basically as normal but you finish with an R2 (or r2 or something if you're smart and cancel).

Like I said above though, I would focus on normal blockbuilding before experimenting with things like this as it's better to be able to blockbuild efficiently than be able to do all the tricks inefficiently.

I'm sub 13 with roux currently. I learned LMCF before and only know this way off solving LSE. (I understand the normal LSE too and can solve it, but I use the 'L6E' part from LMCF in speed solves)

I guess this might make the NMB to LSE part easier since the L6E was designed to be easy with NMB, so I might take advantage from that.
 

Atomixcc

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I have been trying to learn Roux. I've been looking for a speed solving method and divided on Roux. But I am finding it to tricky to learn. Is there any methods or tutorials that will be easy to understand and help me learn Roux?

Hi, I'm currently using the beginner method but I would really like to learn Roux. I get about 1 minute with my current method but want to get sub-30 before the year is over. Can I please have some tips on learning Roux and some good tutorials
All Help will be greatly appreciated
-Atomix creative cubing
 

Alex B71

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On youtube you will find a channel under the name "Kian Monsour", he's a very skilled roux user and has made a 4 part tutorial aimed towards beginners. i should note if you're coming from a layer by layer method roux may seem a little awkward at first but it shouldn't be too bad. Also, this sites wiki page has a lot of information that might be worth the read.
 
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Remember with roux, you should never do rotations which are z or y. x rotations are okay if both your blocks are 1 move away in the same direction.

Kian Mansour has good tutorials on all parts. Check him out, he is good. I even use kinda beginners F2B Block building if i want to achieve fast TPS.

Here are some tips to overcome some goals:
All skill levels
-Roux FMC for all steps.
Sub-40
-Have decent recognition and look ahead
-Use inspection to your advantage
-Plan out how to insert the DL edge and make a pair
Sub-30
-Try to have better TPS
-Try some more “loading spots” around the cube, even some corner loading spots.
-Practice some LSE Cases.
-Learn 2-Look CMLL
Sub-25
-Get faster TPS while having better look ahead.
-Learn EOLR.
-Learn some CMLL cases when you do your normal CMLL alg for orienting corners, it gives you a diagonal swap for permutation.
Sub-20
-Good look ahead and decent TPS.
-Learn SB Last Slot algs on Kian’s Website and practice them on FR and BR pairs.
Sub-15
-Learn Full CMLL and have good fingertricks.
-Have the Highest TPS you can have while having good look ahead.
Sub-10 and Beyond
-ask kian in the comments of his yt videos for some tips for sub-10 and beyond, he is quite active and mostly will respond to questions.

dee dub beginner roux tutorial.
That is kinda outdated (i think), Kian’s one is okay enough.
 
Last edited:

narusite

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Hi, (not-so) quick questions for the second block in roux.
I'm aware of things like "SB last slot" and "Kian SB last slot"
But I'm not very advanced, I don't plan to be sub 10. I'm currently between 30 and 40, with occasional solves below or above.

I've seen/heard things like "orient edges" or "well oriented edge" for the second block.
I thought that it meant that you can insert them with R/U only, that is if the R face is red, a well-oriented edge is one that is not red on U face.
For instance, when doing RUR' (RU'R') on a solved cube, the UF (UB) edge is well oriented be cause if you do RU'R' (RUR') you can insert it.
I am correct?

I mostly use intuitive SB (that is I haven't (and don't plan to) learn the algs on the previous links), and try to orient the edge w/r to the matching corner on the U face.
For instance, with RU'R' U2, I'll tend to do M' U2 Rw U Rw': I flip the edge and not the corner.
Should I try to break that habit and orient the edge if possible?

Last question: when there is a pair already done (usually with DR) I "pannick" a little bit trying to not break the pair inserting the first edge and then the pair.
For instance (without thinking of the RF pair) with R2URU'Rw'U'RU, I'll do something like store the first pair in the R face, then flip the edge, and insert the pair: U'R'UM'URUR2U'R2. It always seems a little bit far-fetched when reasoning like that. Do you have some tips?

Also, if you have some tips you'd like to share, some realisations like:
if a corner is in place, place the edge on the D face, then R U (or U2 depending on the orientation and position of the edge) M' (or M2) U'R.
This works better for me than quicker things like RU'M'UR'. I'll instead do U Rw U M2 U' R (well, it's not that longer in this case, but you get the idea)

Or a beginner tip for Step 4b - Finish L/R-sides I "discovered" not so early…
when one edge is on D and the other is on U between two corners of the R or L face, you can save a few moves (cancelation) by not putting both edges on the D face.
put them diagonnally on the M slice and move one of the edge betwen the two corners of the opposite face and then finish normally with U2 M/M'.
Let's say that L is orange and R is red, that you have red on bottom and orange on top.
- if orange is between the two red corners, you put the red edge on the U face between the two orange corners example
- if orange is between the two orange corners, you put the orange edge between the two red corners example

Thanks for reading if you've made this far. You all have been of a great help with your posts.
 

GuRoux

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Usually the definition of oriented for edges is if you can solve it using only R, U, L and D moves. On average, solving pairs with oriented edges are only a little bit faster than the unoriented case. It takes a lot of skill to really take advantage of these differences. At the beginner level, it won't help much to obsess over influencing edge orientation. Just try to do the solutions that are faster to do. For the "panic" case, it depends. The case you showed is difficult to solve the square. I would just solve DR and the corner with U' R2 and work on the other pair.
 

notme

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Why is the color orientation in alg cubing net different than what I learned already? I tried the roux "example solve " game and am completely thrown off by the color change.
Maybe I could start with xyz moves to orient to the "standard" way.
Is this about being color neutral?
 

porkynator

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Why is the color orientation in alg cubing net different than what I learned already? I tried the roux "example solve " game and am completely thrown off by the color change.
Maybe I could start with xyz moves to orient to the "standard" way.
Is this about being color neutral?

alg.cubing.net uses white on top and green on front, which is the standard orientation.
 
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