• Welcome to SpeedSolving.com — the world’s largest puzzle community!

    You’re currently browsing as a guest, which means you have limited access to discussions, resources, member profiles, and community features.

    Join 50,000+ cubers and puzzle enthusiasts from around the world to ask questions, share solves, improve faster, and be part of the community.

    Registration is free, fast, and easy — create your account today.

    Already a member? Log in here to hide this message and start participating.
Note: I know it takes practise, and accuracy is key, but I want to make sure I'm going about it correctly, and that I'm not giving myself a disadvantage with a bad setup.

Should be fairly easy to give a "flick" of the finger and for a layer to have enough momentum to move itself into position,
or is it typical to always have to follow through somewhat with the finger doing the trick?

Basically, I'm working on M fingertricks, and and I can perform an M a lot more comfortably after some practise.
This involves pushing up from the back with my ring finger, then following through to the top.

I tried giving a flick without following through to see if I could conserve finger motion for execution speed, and the middle layer "breaks" from resting position, but then just stops halfway.

So I became curious if this was the case with stronger, easier moves ,like U U'

nearly the same effect, it breaks, then stops partway. I can apply a bit more aggression to the flick, and it definitely gets into position without a follow-through, but tends to overshoot (I know that's a common problem, I saw quite a few mentions about that searching for this same thing).

Then I considered that M moves have a lot more magnetic resistance behind them, since they're sandwiched in between all sides (and they're a lot harder to overshoot).

that said, should flicks require greater strength to perform, or should they be light,feathery, and somewhat effortless? (this was my fantasy thought haha)

opinions and experience please!
 
If I'm understanding right...

The follow through thing you're describing is what you're going to want to do. You're going to end up pushing almost all the way until it's into the next spot. If you watch videos of fast people solving at like x.25 or x.5 speed you'll see how they do fingertricks. There are a lot of ways to do different moves and some are better in some situations than others! Optimally, you want to move your hands as little as possible, so you can do a U move for example no matter where your hand is.

Also what cube are you using? That might be a contributing factor as well (although probably not)
 
  • Like
Reactions: nop
Sorry It sounded confusing, I promise I tried to be clear :D
Really appreciate the response!

You're going to end up pushing almost all the way until it's into the next spot.
Thanks! Perfect! That's what I wondered, if the layer should be physically moved to the end, or if it just needed a bit of a forceful nudge to "throw" it into place.

Optimally, you want to move your hands as little as possible
This is exactly what I was trying to do, and wanted to make sure I wasn't thinking too big at this point. The top cubers make it look like spider-leg fingers crawling along the sides while the cube moves in between.

Also what cube are you using?
GAN 356 X.

(I came off of a Rubik's brand I broke in and adjusted until fingertricks could be done on it. It's still dear to me, I play with it daily :D)

I experimented with all of the magnets, nuts, and tensions (it's not the locking nut edition, I like doing things the hard way for better understanding) to see the results, including no magnets, and eventually went back to the stock hardware. at one point if anyone who wasn't experienced tried to mess with it pieces would fly out (was searching for that light-touch turn).

It's been thoroughly cleaned many times, and conservatively/experimentally lubed. a bit slower now after last rebuild.

But given this, it seems the M layer likes to grip more, probably because my hands are weak, and puny bwa ha ha!

I'm not having any -frustrating- trouble manipulating the cube, but I wanted to make sure it was definitely a lack of skill and mechanical memory. Can't rock it right out of the gate yeah? takes dedication and time.

Videos make M rotations look effortless, and it seems people just tap the layer to make it spin :D really is beautiful to see
 
How to make DaYan coating?
I just went to a comp and had a guy DaYan coat my little magic, I really like it and want to know how to make it.
 
I just got a 5x5 and I realized it is a lot faster than my 4x4, even though they are both budget cubes. Is it supposed to be like that?
 
I lost one of the center caps to my GTS 3M in a car. Is there a way to get a new one, or a version I could 3D print? Any help is appreciated, thanks
 
Are the magnets on stock gan 354m's & stock mini wuque m's allowed on planes? Was wondering if i could take them on a vacation. I hope they're not to strong.
 
Does the moyu lingpo come with washers? I know this sounds like a stupid question but im pretty sure i lost them a while ago but i forgot
 
Why can't they give the GAN 356 R all the GES V3 nuts?
Somebody help me.

Also:
Do cubes like 3x3s actually need magnets?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Do cubes like 3x3s actually need magnets?
No. They don't need them. However, they are beneficial to the cubers using the cubes. But again, cubers also don't /need/ magnets. It just makes cubing better in most cases.

Somebody help me.
Because the GAN R is GAN's budget model and therefore they included as little as possible to keep costs low. You can always buy a set of magnets from somewhere to replace the ones present in the GAN R.
 
Back
Top