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I don't have a problem with the technical stuff like cycles and buffer or what BLD method I use, I just have a trouble remembering the speffz lettering scheme, I always forget it somehow. how could I remember it in my brain?

edit : not related to the post above
In the beginning, it helps a lot to know the first letter of every side, i.e. AEIMQU. You can derive the other letter from them easily. After a while, with practice, this will become automatic and you don't need to think about it anymore.
 
So I was wondering about look ahead and thought of some things that help make the move count lower, such as x crosses, multislotting etc.

So if you apply most of these concepts to a blindfolded solve, is it possible to do that?
 
So I was wondering about look ahead and thought of some things that help make the move count lower, such as x crosses, multislotting etc.

So if you apply most of these concepts to a blindfolded solve, is it possible to do that?
It would be wayyyy too hard. You'd have to one look the entire solution by tracing, and during Cross and F2L, lots of things move around.
 
Hi, I'm pretty new to bld.
and I didn't understand when you have a flipped buffer, to know where will be the second flipped piece at the end.
please help.
 
Hi, I'm pretty new to bld.
and I didn't understand when you have a flipped buffer, to know where will be the second flipped piece at the end.
please help.
The short answer is, there isn't one. If your buffer starts flipped, you may have another flipped piece or you may not - the same as if your buffer is solved to begin with, or anywhere else. Because of how cycle breaks work, whether the buffer is flipped or not has no effect on other pieces being flipped. Just look for the flips separately.
 
Hi, I'm pretty new to bld.
and I didn't understand when you have a flipped buffer, to know where will be the second flipped piece at the end.
please help.

@CuberStache is correct, and when your buffer is in the right place but flipped, just consider it "solved" and find a new cycle. If there are no new cycles, then you did something wrong before then.
 
All you have to do is find a sticker you don’t think has been solved, check it, and shoot to it if it hasn’t been solved.
Yeah, I understand the concept, but I still need to use my fingers to figure out which pieces are solved, and since there are twelve edges and I have ten fingers... let’s just say I normally can’t figure out which ones are solved, and the only way to figure that out is practice, and I would only practice if I knew that I could solve it which requires me to know which ones are solved, etc etc
 
Yeah, I understand the concept, but I still need to use my fingers to figure out which pieces are solved, and since there are twelve edges and I have ten fingers... let’s just say I normally can’t figure out which ones are solved, and the only way to figure that out is practice, and I would only practice if I knew that I could solve it which requires me to know which ones are solved, etc etc
One thing you can do when you are starting blind is to write down your memo and the pieces that are solved/unsolved. You can hide the cube while you execute your solution so that you don't have to worry about memorizing anything yet.
If you write everything out, you don't need to use your fingers to touch the edges because you'll have a written record of which pieces are solved, unsolved, or already traced.
 
One thing you can do when you are starting blind is to write down your memo and the pieces that are solved/unsolved. You can hide the cube while you execute your solution so that you don't have to worry about memorizing anything yet.
If you write everything out, you don't need to use your fingers to touch the edges because you'll have a written record of which pieces are solved, unsolved, or already traced.

I used to do that; I'd make a list of all the pieces(marking it like A/R/E for the UBL piece, since it's all of those letters(Speffz)) and then just put a Y if I had memoed it
 
This might help you along the way.


If you have any questions, I'd be happy to help further. I personally don't put a finger on the buffer piece and the spot that the buffer piece is in while I'm tracing. That saves two spots, and leaves 10 for my 10 fingers. :D
 
Yeah, I understand the concept, but I still need to use my fingers to figure out which pieces are solved, and since there are twelve edges and I have ten fingers... let’s just say I normally can’t figure out which ones are solved, and the only way to figure that out is practice, and I would only practice if I knew that I could solve it which requires me to know which ones are solved, etc etc
You can try and cross out stickers in blocks, for example, if all the edge stickers in the D layer are solved, you just remember it can only be in the middle layer or the top layer now. Plus, if a sticker has been solved, the entire edge has been solved.
 
Yeah, I understand the concept, but I still need to use my fingers to figure out which pieces are solved, and since there are twelve edges and I have ten fingers... let’s just say I normally can’t figure out which ones are solved, and the only way to figure that out is practice, and I would only practice if I knew that I could solve it which requires me to know which ones are solved, etc etc
I use four fingers of each hand to put them on the L and R layer edges. With UF as my buffer, I remember the remaining three M slice edges without the use of my fingers. I found that this is the most ergonomic way and remembering only three edges without my fingers works very well.
You can do the same thing with the UR buffer, except that the right hand fingers touch FR, DR, BR, BU, BD. This way you only need to keep track of UF and DF.
 
This might help you along the way.


If you have any questions, I'd be happy to help further. I personally don't put a finger on the buffer piece and the spot that the buffer piece is in while I'm tracing. That saves two spots, and leaves 10 for my 10 fingers. :D
Thanks! I’ve known how to do it for several months, but I think this will motivate me to try again
 
Hello, I'm using M2 for edges with FD buffer, and I'm wondering if there's a faster way to execute the cases where the edges are on L or R faces. For example for H (LF edge) I do B L2 B' M2 B L2 B and have to do at least 2 regrips, and the M2 is awkward.
I know about this video which introduce some advanced way of doing M2's, but I haven't found them to be useful for M2 with FD buffer, especially for B / M2 combos, but maybe I missed something.
 
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