[Help Thread] Roux Discussion and Help

[THEDOWZER]

Fixed it earlier and managed to fumble my way through step 4 and finally solved it.
Definitely want to practice for consistency. Thanks you two. :tu

 

[TDM]

(sorry if I suddenly stop responding, I only have 30 minutes free wifi here)

i only use them in two case in speedolves:

4 flip where bad edges are all on U and UR and UL are opposite, that's a one move eo solution.

6 flip where UL and UR are not on the same face and are not directly across each other, about a 5 move solution .

i just memorize those cases and when i see them i use it. if they are not one of these cases, i almost will never put the effort to check the misoriented center eo.

Thanks!

i just see them on a case by case basis. like, here's an easy one, 4flip on top with ULUR ontop and opposite eachother. just do an M' and eo is done. which ar ethe useful cases youre referring to? (respond to this in the help and discussion thread because i think were getting off topic)

what about the onemove adj 2flip case?

This is the only one I knew of before seeing the explanation of the pure 4-flip and GuRoux's above post. How do you recognise it? What about if it's an M2 away (so one of the ULUR edges is in D)?

 

[GuRoux]

(sorry if I suddenly stop responding, I only have 30 minutes free wifi here)

Thanks!


This is the only one I knew of before seeing the explanation of the pure 4-flip and GuRoux's above post. How do you recognise it? What about if it's an M2 away (so one of the ULUR edges is in D)?

M2 gets them all on top, then M' or M solves eo: M2 M = M' , just make sure the two bad edges on the top are in the UL/UR positions.

and it doesn't have to a pure 4 flip, any 4 flip on the U layer with UL and UR across will work.

 

[Ross The Boss]

i try to recognize eo and ulur placement as early as possible. its good for me if i can get the number of bad edges predicted before cmll (lors of times i can get the full prediction down though) and know where one of the ulur pieces is so i can just deduce where the other is using information like the U and D edge coloures. thats how i recognize stuff like this. for most cases though i pair them up without misoriented centers because its not always a good option.

and it doesn't have to a pure 4 flip, any 4 flip on the U layer with UL and UR across will work.

what do you mean by "pure"?

 

[TDM]

and it doesn't have to a pure 4 flip, any 4 flip on the U layer with UL and UR across will work.

I know, but it was your explanation of it that showed me that EO+ULUR case.

what do you mean by "pure"?

Preserves EP.

 

[Tgrede]

So I learned roux about a week ago and I see some very very veryyyyy small improvement, My biggest issue is the block building. I have so much trouble recognizing and tracking where my pieces are for my next 1x2x2 block to create the 1x2x3 block. My first block times are constantly varying from 18 seconds being my fastest first block. to 1 minute 30 seconds being my slowest first block. As you can see it varies completely.

 

[NeilH]

So I learned roux about a week ago and I see some very very veryyyyy small improvement, My biggest issue is the block building. I have so much trouble recognizing and tracking where my pieces are for my next 1x2x2 block to create the 1x2x3 block. My first block times are constantly varying from 18 seconds being my fastest first block. to 1 minute 30 seconds being my slowest first block. As you can see it varies completely.

Don't time yourself for now, just solve it normally without the clock. Watch example solves from people like Waffo, GuRoux, and Alex Lau(5BLD).

 

[PenguinsDontFly]

Don't time yourself for now, just solve it normally without the clock. Watch example solves from people like Waffo, GuRoux, and Alex Lau(5BLD).

pretty much this. untimed solves help a ton. try to find different ways of making blocks, and try to find pieces faster. Example solves are great, and it helps if you follow along with the scrambles and try to use the techniques in your own solves. Ryan also has a good example solves vid, but he uses a strange colour scheme which may make it a little harder to follow. (no offense ).

 

[shadowslice e]

Splits for sub-20 Ao50s?

(One with full CMLL and one with 2-look pls)

Thanks

Sent from my M1005D using Tapatalk

 

[OLLiver]

Hi rouxers!
I switched to roux from 13 second CFOP avg 24 hours ago. I currently Avg around 35 seconds with roux. my F2B takes around 15 seconds and I Think I'm good with M slice moves. my CMLL takes 3 seconds on avg. my LSE takes 15 seconds. What should I improve to get sub 20 seconds? thanks!

 

[NeilH]

Hi rouxers!
I switched to roux from 13 second CFOP avg 24 hours ago. I currently Avg around 35 seconds with roux. my F2B takes around 15 seconds and I Think I'm good with M slice moves. my CMLL takes 3 seconds on avg. my LSE takes 15 seconds. What should I improve to get sub 20 seconds? thanks!

What m8????? anyway, turn slowly and do lots of slow solves. CFOP is something you can learn about while doing speedsolves, but you have to develop your own style of Roux completely. Watch example solves and play with joining pieces in different ways for F2B.

 

[Renslay]

Splits for sub-20 Ao50s?

(One with full CMLL and one with 2-look pls)

Thanks

Sent from my M1005D using Tapatalk

According to http://rouxtorial.webs.com/miscellaneous.htm:
"Aim for blocks 8, cmll 3, LSE 4."
See the details there.

Also see http://wafflelikescubes.webs.com/sub15guidetoroux.htm for further tips for splits.

I pretty much agree with those tips.

Hi rouxers!
I switched to roux from 13 second CFOP avg 24 hours ago. I currently Avg around 35 seconds with roux. my F2B takes around 15 seconds and I Think I'm good with M slice moves. my CMLL takes 3 seconds on avg. my LSE takes 15 seconds. What should I improve to get sub 20 seconds? thanks!

Your LSE is way too long comparing for your F2B.
Aim for 12 seconds for F2B and work on your LSE. Learn the EO cases. Inserting UL/UR and M slice perms (Step 4b and 4c) should be done without thinking. Aim for sub10 for LSE, then sub6, then sub4. Later on try to influence your UL/UR during EO.

For beating your 13 seconds average, the ultimate goal is 5-6 sec F2B, 1.5-2 sec CMLL, 2.5-4 sec LSE. And you can go further!
Movecounts (in STM) should be around 6-9 for FB, 12-17 for SB, 10 for CMLL and 12-18 for LSE.

edit:
Also, x2/y2 color neutrality should be easy. Consider to learn x/y2 or x2/y neutrality, but it is not essential for sub13. Although since you know CFOP I assume you already x2/y color neutral.

 

[Tgrede]

So I'm pretty new to speedcubing, can someone fill me in on what "x2/y2" and x/y2" and that is? I have not heard of these terms

 

[Berd]

So I'm pretty new to speedcubing, can someone fill me in on what "x2/y2" and x/y2" and that is? I have not heard of these terms

It's a term on what block to start with. So x2/y2 means you could make a blue with white on bottom. Or yellow on bottom or a green block.

 

[Tgrede]

so would x2/y be you can make like red or orange block, but have to start with white on bottom? if so is that a bad thing? Because that's how I am.

 

[shadowslice e]

so would x2/y be you can make like red or orange block, but have to start with white on bottom? if so is that a bad thing? Because that's how I am.

It`s not necessarially bad but it would be a good idea to get used to all the white up/yellow down and yellow up/white down orientations before you get too set in your ways to change

 

[Renslay]

So I'm pretty new to speedcubing, can someone fill me in on what "x2/y2" and x/y2" and that is? I have not heard of these terms

It's a term on what block to start with. So x2/y2 means you could make a blue with white on bottom. Or yellow on bottom or a green block.

I can do neither white nor yellow on bottom.

Seriously, let's say you can do your first block as white on bottom, red on left. This is without any color neutrality.

y2 color neutrality:
Your first block is either
- white bottom red left, or
- white bottom orange left
(as if you turn the cube with an y2 move and consider the new colors as your left block)

y2/x2 color neutrality:
- white bottom red left, or
- white bottom orange left, or
- yellow bottom red left, or
- yellow bottom orange left
(as if you turn the cube with an y2, x2 or y2+x2 move and consider the new colors as your left block)

y2/x color neutrality:
anything on bottom + red or orange on left

y/x2 color neutrality:
white or yellow on bottom + anything on left

x/y color neutrality:
anything on bottom + anything on left (full color neutrality); highly impractical and way too complicated for Roux.

 

[PenguinsDontFly]

I can't do neither white nor yellow on bottom.

Seriously, let's say you can do your first block as white on bottom, red on left. This is without any color neutrality.

y2 color neutrality:
Your first block is either
- white bottom red left, or
- white bottom orange left
(as if you turn the cube with an y2 move and consider the new colors as your left block)

y2/x2 color neutrality:
- white bottom red left, or
- white bottom orange left, or
- yellow bottom red left, or
- yellow bottom orange left
(as if you turn the cube with an y2, x2 or y2+x2 move and consider the new colors as your left block)

y2/x color neutrality:
anything on bottom + red or orange on left

y/x2 color neutrality:
white or yellow on bottom + anything on left

x/y color neutrality:
anything on bottom + anything on left (full color neutrality); highly impractical and way too complicated for Roux.

great explanation! it is generally believed that y/x2 is the best colour neutrality for roux. 8 blocks is plenty, so its hard to get a ****ty scramble, and its few enough that you have time to inspect all 8 blocks.

 

[Renslay]

great explanation! it is generally believed that y/x2 is the best colour neutrality for roux. 8 blocks is plenty, so its hard to get a ****ty scramble, and its few enough that you have time to inspect all 8 blocks.

Agree. Currently I am x2/y2 neutral, but I recently started to learn y/x2. Still like 10 seconds slower, but it worths to learn.

 

[Tgrede]

Well if I shouldn't worry about my times right now just starting out, should I still worry about my move count with the first block? Or not even move count, and just figure out more how to actually build blocks