your progression is crazy. i think it took Alexander Lau 1 year to get sub 10. you might beat that.
Sub 15 in 4 months is crazy. It's hard for me to time my progression from the start; I just know that with Roux it took me 2-3 months to get from 20 to 15. But 3x3 wasn't really my main event back in May. I think a lot of it is just about time that people have. I progressed quite a bit in the summer but then by the time school rolled around I couldn't practice as much.

I think Alex was closer to a year and a half to get sub 10. Other people who progressed at or around this rate include Kennan Lejeune and Andrew Ricci, then I'm not sure who else. Sub 10 in under a year seems nearly impossible though.
 
Sub 15 in 4 months is crazy. It's hard for me to time my progression from the start; I just know that with Roux it took me 2-3 months to get from 20 to 15. But 3x3 wasn't really my main event back in May. I think a lot of it is just about time that people have. I progressed quite a bit in the summer but then by the time school rolled around I couldn't practice as much.

I think Alex was closer to a year and a half to get sub 10. Other people who progressed at or around this rate include Kennan Lejeune and Andrew Ricci, then I'm not sure who else. Sub 10 in under a year seems nearly impossible though.

Emphasis on nearly! Lol. Just did an ao 50 and got an average of 14.1, with a lot of 12s.
 
Right now, for me the difference between a 14 second solve and a 12 second solve is the inspection. For 14 second solves, I fully plan fb, and execute, then do second block, with a slight pause (probably sub 0.3) to find some pieces, but this messesup my fluidity. In 12 second solves, I fully plan block and preserve some sb pieces for later. Any solve under 12 for me is lucky, and anything over 14 is either a corner twist, pop, wrong cmll (lol), or wasting 13 seconds of inspection deciding on block....
 
Right now, for me the difference between a 14 second solve and a 12 second solve is the inspection. For 14 second solves, I fully plan fb, and execute, then do second block, with a slight pause (probably sub 0.3) to find some pieces, but this messesup my fluidity. In 12 second solves, I fully plan block and preserve some sb pieces for later. Any solve under 12 for me is lucky, and anything over 14 is either a corner twist, pop, wrong cmll (lol), or wasting 13 seconds of inspection deciding on block....

You definitely don't need to plan any of SB in inspection. It's all about adapting to situations on the fly. It can help if the FB is really easy but other than that I really don't do it.
 
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Most insane thing! Beat my OH pb average of 5 by around 2 seconds.

Average of 5: 14.22
31. (18.07) D F D' U' R2 L' U' R2 L' B L2 F D U2 F' U' B' F2 D U B U R2 B2 U
32. 14.01 B R2 U' D2 R' L2 F L F2 D U R F D' U' R2 U' B' F R U2 F2 R2 B' U
33. 15.91 B2 R L' F' B' R' B D2 U' L' R B2 F' R2 B' D' L' D L B' D U' F' U' B2
34. (12.14) F' D' F L2 R' D2 R2 L' D F2 D U' R2 D U2 L' F' U' D L' B' F U2 L B'
35. 12.75 R F B D L B D L D B2 U2 F' R2 U2 R U2 D' R2 L' B2 D2 B2 R' F' B

can't figure out the solution for the 12.14 but the 12.75 was this:

scramble: R F B D L B D L D B2 U2 F' R2 U2 R U2 D' R2 L' B2 D2 B2 R' F' B
solution:
z' y
U' L' U L2 U' L' U L U L' (10)
U2 z' u L U' L2 U' L2 U L' U' L U' L' z M' U l (16)
x L' U U L U L' U L (9)
U M' U U M' U M' U U M U U M' U' M' U U M U U (20)
stm: 45
time: 12.75
tps: 3.53
 
My laziness has left me with a sub 25 Roux at the moment. Off and on "when-I-feel-like-it" Roux solves for a couple of years... ah well..
 
Any tips for executing 2nd block, I feel if I get my blocks sub10 sub 20 will be easy
Almost done with COLL and CMLL (mishmash of both) and I can usually plan out my first square very easily and sometime my whole block. I avg. 12 on F2B which is killing me :L First block is 6 seconds and second block is like 4-6 seconds
 
Any tips for executing 2nd block, I feel if I get my blocks sub10 sub 20 will be easy
Almost done with COLL and CMLL (mishmash of both) and I can usually plan out my first square very easily and sometime my whole block. I avg. 12 on F2B which is killing me :L First block is 6 seconds and second block is like 4-6 seconds

your second block should almost always be slower than your first. i'd work on planning your whole first block.
 
HmmmmmMmmm.
Should I drill first block only?
And if I was going for sub 20 what should my splits be :3

I would say get blocks around 10 (maybe 4 for FB and 6 for SB, or 3-7), CMLL in 4-5 (if you're using 2 look CMLL), and LSE in 5 or less. If it's full CMLL, then aim for 3 seconds. It really depends on your strong steps, so this is just a loose guideline.
 
I would say get blocks around 10 (maybe 4 for FB and 6 for SB, or 3-7), CMLL in 4-5 (if you're using 2 look CMLL), and LSE in 5 or less. If it's full CMLL, then aim for 3 seconds. It really depends on your strong steps, so this is just a loose guideline.

Tips for LSE I saw a video on how to lookahead in LSE from a Japanese Roux user and it looks really interesting, also I need help knowing when to "cancel" EO moves to get a better UL and UR :O any tips?
 
Sure, what they do is make use of non matching centers.

Take the first one for example DF + UF - M
This means that the UL UR pieces are on the DF and UF positions (permutation doesn't matter right now)
If you do an M, everything is correctly oriented. Just with a non matching center. You proceed with the rest of LSE as usual.

Now lets do the case to it's right
2a - All 6 are misoriented.
UF+UR - M*
The UL and UR pieces are on the UF and UR positions. Again permutation doesn't matter.
If you do an M, then 3 misoriented edges appear on top and you'll just follow it up with M U' M or similar to flip everything else.
The "*" denotes that 3 should have appeared on top.

The rest are similar.

EDIT - I forgot to mention that the purple pieces are the misoriented edges for the whole cube. They are NOT the UL/UR pieces. You have to look for that.
 
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Sure, what they do is make use of non matching centers.

Take the first one for example DF + UF - M
This means that the UL UR pieces are on the DF and UF positions (permutation doesn't matter right now)
If you do an M, everything is correctly oriented. Just with a non matching center. You proceed with the rest of LSE as usual.

Now lets do the case to it's right
2a - All 6 are misoriented.
UF+UR - M*
The UL and UR pieces are on the UF and UR positions. Again permutation doesn't matter.
If you do an M, then 3 misoriented edges appear on top and you'll just follow it up with M U' M or similar to flip everything else.
The "*" denotes that 3 should have appeared on top.

The rest are similar.

EDIT - I forgot to mention that the purple pieces are the misoriented edges for the whole cube. They are NOT the UL/UR pieces. You have to look for that.

So I just have to perform that mini alg when the UL and UR are in certain areas to get a shorter LSE?
Ty <4
 
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