Thanks for the advice mr. Boss! I'll start trying to write down my solutions when I can't find an easy way to solve and still want to try planning everything. I've been trying to worry less about planning whenever I get to the point that I'm not really 100% sure about the orientation of the blocks, and it's been far less frustrating than messing up my planned moves. And surprisingly I'm usually getting the orientations right now, so I don't think it'll be too long before I can plan everything ahead of time without so much effort after all!

Still feeling like I have some very clunky ways to handle certain cases, I've basically just been slowly expanding the basic ways to make pairs as I realize some patterns, so at least I'm not making every pair by putting the corner on top, edge on bottom and just rotating to connect them with M-slices any more. Sometimes I still only see clunky solutions though, and I'm still only thinking in terms of solving each pair individually. There are still times where I end up going above 10 moves (usually with fast sequences though, like L U' L'). The only times where I make two pairs at the same time are when I lose track of the pieces during planning. Not to mention the second block, although that seems so restricted in the first place that I feel less bad for not being so efficient yet.
 
Hello everyone, I have a kind of random question for you.
Is it plausible to solve the second block with a different color on the D face than the first block?
(I did a quick solve, not a very efficient one, but hopefully it shows what I mean, here: Alg.cubing.net
I've been playing around with it a bit, and I think it could help the second block be much more efficient. I know it could be pretty complex, but if I start learning now it could be very beneficial once I start getting faster.
Do you think this might be worth doing, or would it be too complex to do well in a speedsolve?
 
Hello everyone, I have a kind of random question for you.
Is it plausible to solve the second block with a different color on the D face than the first block?
(I did a quick solve, not a very efficient one, but hopefully it shows what I mean, here: Alg.cubing.net
I've been playing around with it a bit, and I think it could help the second block be much more efficient. I know it could be pretty complex, but if I start learning now it could be very beneficial once I start getting faster.
Do you think this might be worth doing, or would it be too complex to do well in a speedsolve?

yes, non-matching blocks, it's a pretty advanced technique, it's probably more worth it to work on other techniques though, justin harder has some system to recognize the cmll well and uses the techinque often, so i think he's the authority.
 
I know I said I was done with Roux, but that is what I got my Roux PB with. only, the bottom colour was the opposite of the other color

I'd hope your Roux PB would be with Roux. As the posts above you say, non matching blocks is a thing, though very difficult to master
 
Summer vacation has begun. So I am going to start learning full CMLL. Should I just start at the beginning of the chart learning B2-B6 and then go in order? Or is there a set that is statistically more common than others? For example, I feel like I never see Headlights/E which makes me want to learn those last. But maybe, I am just tricking myself into thinking that there are some that are less common than others.
 
Summer vacation has begun. So I am going to start learning full CMLL. Should I just start at the beginning of the chart learning B2-B6 and then go in order? Or is there a set that is statistically more common than others? For example, I feel like I never see Headlights/E which makes me want to learn those last. But maybe, I am just tricking myself into thinking that there are some that are less common than others.

it doesn't really matter, just make sure you find the best algs so you don't have to switch later.
 
Summer vacation has begun. So I am going to start learning full CMLL. Should I just start at the beginning of the chart learning B2-B6 and then go in order? Or is there a set that is statistically more common than others? For example, I feel like I never see Headlights/E which makes me want to learn those last. But maybe, I am just tricking myself into thinking that there are some that are less common than others.

I learned in groups like that. A1-A6, B1-B6, etc.... I don't know if it was the best way though.
 
I have a lot questions.

1) When starting the second block, do you identify all 5 pieces before you start solving? It seems as though that is what people do in example solves on YouTube. However, when I am speedsolving, I just pair the first two pieces that I see. I think that is what Gilles Roux himself recommends on his website.

2) When forming the last pair in the second block, do you ever use the sledgehammer (R' F R F')? Technically, it breaks the no F-moves rule. However, I cannot figure out a more efficient way to make that pair in that scenario (corner is in D layer with bottom color facing you and corresponding edge is in the U layer).

3) At this point, I always do U & M with my right hand and U' & M' with my left hand. Should I be able to do both directions with both hands? If so, do you have any finger trick tips? I am looking for both technique tips and on how to recognize when it is beneficial to use the opposite hand.

Thank you.
 
I have a lot questions.

1) When starting the second block, do you identify all 5 pieces before you start solving? It seems as though that is what people do in example solves on YouTube. However, when I am speedsolving, I just pair the first two pieces that I see. I think that is what Gilles Roux himself recommends on his website.

2) When forming the last pair in the second block, do you ever use the sledgehammer (R' F R F')? Technically, it breaks the no F-moves rule. However, I cannot figure out a more efficient way to make that pair in that scenario (corner is in D layer with bottom color facing you and corresponding edge is in the U layer).

3) At this point, I always do U & M with my right hand and U' & M' with my left hand. Should I be able to do both directions with both hands? If so, do you have any finger trick tips? I am looking for both technique tips and on how to recognize when it is beneficial to use the opposite hand.

Thank you.
 
I have a lot questions.

[...]

Thank you.
1) No. I solve the first two pieces I see, and try to orient the DR edge as I'm solving them.

2) I use F moves quite a lot. I don't think you have to be completely strict about this; for example, there's not really a better way of solving the F' U' F case. I also do F/B moves for R(') U R' F R F' R and l F' R U' R' U l', as well as a few other cases. I don't know which case you're referring to - could you set it up with visualcube or alg.cubing.net?

3) Most people only use one hand for all M moves - M, M' and M2. This is definitely true for LSE, though I occasionally use my left hand for Ms during SB despite doing most of them with my right. Learning a couple of different fingertricks for M moves could be good - I do them by either pushing FD->DB or DB->BU, depending on the situation. It's good to be able to choose which fingertrick to use to avoid any regrips or similar.
 
I have a lot questions.

1) When starting the second block, do you identify all 5 pieces before you start solving? It seems as though that is what people do in example solves on YouTube. However, when I am speedsolving, I just pair the first two pieces that I see. I think that is what Gilles Roux himself recommends on his website.

Thank you.

pretty much do what you can see. as you get better, you will realize you can see where most of the SB pieces are when you finish FB, but of course that lookahead will develop over time.
 
I have a lot questions.

1) When starting the second block, do you identify all 5 pieces before you start solving? It seems as though that is what people do in example solves on YouTube. However, when I am speedsolving, I just pair the first two pieces that I see. I think that is what Gilles Roux himself recommends on his website.

2) When forming the last pair in the second block, do you ever use the sledgehammer (R' F R F')? Technically, it breaks the no F-moves rule. However, I cannot figure out a more efficient way to make that pair in that scenario (corner is in D layer with bottom color facing you and corresponding edge is in the U layer).

3) At this point, I always do U & M with my right hand and U' & M' with my left hand. Should I be able to do both directions with both hands? If so, do you have any finger trick tips? I am looking for both technique tips and on how to recognize when it is beneficial to use the opposite hand.

Thank you.

1) i usually like to either know where the RD piece will be once i complete first block and then track a corner and edge while im building it, or track the RD piece while building first block and then recognizing a pair. it's not a happy day for me when i finish first block with no SB information.
2) nah. if pre-alg AUF is not considered (which i do not believe it should be), then RrUM is equal in move count most of the time. there are a few cases that you will recognize as RF-requiring while you become more advanced, but doing sledge hammer for simple pair inserts or using F moves to solve (setup:) F' U' F not something i think very well of.
3)you should probably watch guroux's videos and try to emulate his technique. using one hand for Mslice moves and the other for Ulayer moves seems very efficient. my tricks are a strange amalgamation of every sortof technique being used differently as depending on solution... designating U to one hand and M to the other is probably the best way to go.
 
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