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I did a solve like this (it's on my youtube channel). It's much more difficult than 3x3 reduction and is much less efficient.Is there a 4x4 method that reduces it to a 2x2 instead of a 3x3? I would like trying some new methods.
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I did a solve like this (it's on my youtube channel). It's much more difficult than 3x3 reduction and is much less efficient.Is there a 4x4 method that reduces it to a 2x2 instead of a 3x3? I would like trying some new methods.
Challenge accepted ;-PPeople have tried it before, but I don't think anyone's come up with a decent speed method.
Can't wait to see this. I used a blockbuilding method for my 4x4->2x2 solve. I already suck at 3x3 blockbuilding, so I was super slow and inefficient during my solve. However, 4x4 LBL is a legitimate speedcubing possibility in my opinion. If I ever buy a 7x7 or whatever, I'll probably record a 7x7 LBL solve.Challenge accepted ;-P
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Is there a 4x4 method that reduces it to a 2x2 instead of a 3x3? I would like trying some new methods.
You could use 4bld center algs I think.I have a 4x4 windmill cube with 2 adjacent corners swapped. When I try to use: 2R2 U2 2R2 u2 2R2 2U2, the center of my F slice gets scrambled (and it has a specific orientation due to the cube being a windmill cut).
Is there an algorithm to fix 2 adjacent corners on the top layer of a 4x4? I don't care if the top layer gets scrambled (as you can see the algorithm I already use for normal 4x4 cubes does that), I just need one that doesn't affect the layers below U.
You could use 4bld center algs I think.
Do I need to learn yau on 4x4 to be sub 1:30
Do I need to learn yau on 4x4 to be sub 1:30
not really, you could also use Hoya, its almost, if not as fast a method as Yau. I average around 1:03 with it you should at least check it out
Aaron LoPrete has good tutorials.Do you recommend any tutorials
Yes, that's what happens when you are breaking a cube in; certain pieces get rubbed against each other so they fit together nicer hence why well used cubes are nicer than new ones out of the box.I have had a piece pop out of my 4x4 twice(It wasn't the same piece that popped out though). I always wash my hands after I put the piece back in correctly.
But anyway I get this smooth black powder on my hands after putting the piece back in and not after solving it so I know it is coming from the inside. How do I know it is a powder? Well it looks like a solid and stays on my hands until I wash it off with water. I doubt it is rubber on the inside and I think it is plastic.
But could the moves of the cube(slice moves and everything else except rotations) be grinding up plastic from the inside out thus causing me to get powdered plastic on my hands when I put a piece that has popped out, back in?
It mostly turns smoothly(an occasional catching here and there) and it started off very rigid and wouldn't turn unless it was just so. Now it can corner cut a little bit but not as much as my 3x3 can. This is all due to time using it. No lube has been used and this wasn't second hand(new packaging, new instructions)
This is the same rubiks revenge that I didn't know the color scheme of until I asked here.