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[Help Thread] Yau4 Discussion

Robert-Y

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I'm also now colour neutral with this method. I'll sorta show you how you can become colour neutral easily with method (if you're already CN on 333). You just need to be CN at centres and know your pairs of opposite colours. In the following examples, I will be solving a cube which uses the "western" colour scheme. So white is opposite to yellow, orange is opposite to red and green is opposite to blue. Please scramble your cube in each example with white on top and green on front.



Example 1


Scramble: L' Rw2 R' B' F R Fw L' R D' Rw Uw' L' Rw2 R U2 B' Fw' F2 L Rw2 R' Uw' U' L R U2 Fw L B Uw' U2 R' B' Fw F Uw2 R2 U' R'


First two centres and 3 cross dedges

First two centres (green and blue):

U Lw' U x' U' Lw z B2 Lw2 z' Rw U2 Rw'

1st cross dedge (blue-white)

z' U F' Rw2 F

2nd cross dedge (blue-orange)

L' B' L2 Lw' U'

I have placed the blue-orange cross dedge next to the blue-white because I know that orange and white aren't opposite to each other. Do not worry if blue-orange should be on the other side of blue-white, you can correct that later. I do not bother to work out where blue-orange should be really be, in relation to blue-white because my recognition isn't that great, but I only "waste" 2 moves on average if it's in the wrong place I think. This system should always work.

3rd cross dedge (blue-red)

L Rw2 B

I know that red is opposite to orange, so I placed the blue-red dedge opposite to blue-orange.


Last 4 centres:

Yellow:

U l' Rw' U Rw

Orange:

U' Rw2 U Rw2' L x U' l' U l

White and Red:

Rw' U' Rw L' x' R (preserve the blue-yellow cross edge) U' Rw U2 Rw'


Pair up the last cross dedge and place it + pair up two other dedges and leave them in the BL and BR slots.

Ok, here I have a special case. Because I already paired up the blue-yellow dedge through preserving it whilst I solving the last 4 centres, I will place the blue-yellow dedge, hence finishing the cross, before I pair up two other dedges.

R' U L' F' L2 F

I have realised from inspecting the centres (which I assumed to be correct) that my cross has gone wrong slightly. However, like I mentioned before, this problem can be solved easily. I simply replaced blue-white with blue-yellow, did L2, and then placed blue-white in the correct position. Now my cross is complete.

Pair up two dedges and leave them in the BL and BR slots:

z' Uw' U R U' R' (red-white)

y2 L' U' L Uw (orange-yellow)

What I have done is, I did a double layer turn (Uw') and replaced two edges in the E layer so that when I slice back (i.e. when I do Uw), two dedges will be solved.


Finish pairing up the remaining edges using Hardwick's 2 pair chain solving method

Green-orange:

L' R U' L R' Uw'

The edges which were in FL and FR are (personally) slightly annoying to pair up when they are not the last 2 sets of edges to pair up. So I decided to just replace both them with other edges which can be easily paired up by doing a double layer turn.

Green-red:

R U R' Uw

I replaced the green-orange dedge with the partner of the green-red edge (in the FLd slot) so that when I slice back (by doing Uw) the green-orange dedge will not be affected and the green-red edges will be paired up.

Green-white:

L' U' L Dw

Replace with any "bad" dedge in the top layer and immediately pair up the white-orange edges:

R U R' Dw2

I could see that after the green-white edges the only edges that could be paired up by doing a double layer turn is white-orange, so I decided to move green-white out of the way and replace it with a "bad" dedge.

Green-yellow and red-yellow:

y' R U R' Uw.

Finish! (now for the remaining 333 part)


Example 2


Scramble: Rw2 D U B F2 D2 Uw U' L2 Fw D' Uw2 U2 Fw2 Uw' Fw2 D' Uw U' Rw2 Fw2 F Uw' B2 Rw' R' B2 L' Rw' F' Rw' R D' Uw2 U' B' Fw F D2 R


First two centres and 3 cross dedges

First two centres (white and yellow):

x' Dw' U' Rw' U' Rw' x' y Lw' U' Lw z' B Rw2 z Rw U2 Rw'

1st cross dedge (yellow-red)

z' D Rw U

2nd cross dedge (yellow-green)

L Rw U Rw' D'

I have placed the yellow-green cross dedge next to the yellow-red because I know that red and green aren't opposite to each other. Do not worry if yellow-green should be on the other side of yellow-red, you can correct that later.

3rd cross dedge (yellow-orange)

L F Rw U'

I know that orange is opposite to red, so I placed the yellow-orange dedge opposite to yellow-red.


Last 4 centres:

Orange:

L' U l2 U' Rw2

Blue:

U' Rw U2 Rw' L' x' U2 l2 U l2

Green and Red:

U' l' U Rw


Pair up the last cross dedge and place it + pair up two other dedges and leave them in the BL and BR slots.

To do this, I first leave half of the last cross dedge in the E layer and the other half on top.

z' L'

Ok, now this part gets a bit complicated but if you practise a bit, I hope you will be able to see why it works all the time.

So now I have half of the last cross dedge in the middle layer and the other half on top.

Dw'

This is a funny rule which I always follow. Because the half of the last cross dedge in FRd is facing the right, I will push it away from me, as though I were pushing the cross colour sticker itself. So if it was facing the front, then I would do Dw instead. And if it's in FLu and facing the front, I would do Uw'. Basically, you do a double layer turn which corresponds to where the cross colour sticker of the last cross edge in the E layer is facing.

Yellow-blue:

R U2 R'

I insert the other last cross edge in the FRu slot so that when I do Uw/Dw the centres will be restored and the last cross edges will be paired up and ready for placement.

Now I look at the other edge which is next to the last cross edge which I just inserted into FRu. The edge is green and orange. So I find its partner and place it in next slot (BRu) so that when I do Uw/Dw the centres will be restored and the last cross edges will be paired up and ready for placement, as well as these edges I will pair up.

Green-orange:

y2 L' U2 L

Similar to the above, I find the other blue-red edge and place it in FRu.

Blue-red:

R U2 R'

Now I can restore centres and finish the cross, leaving two "good" dedges in BL and BR.

Uw z' R' U R2 U' R2' z y

I have realised from inspecting the centres (which I assumed to be correct) that my cross has gone wrong slightly. However, like I mentioned before, this problem can be solved easily. I simply replaced yellow-green with yellow-blue, did R2, and then placed yellow-green in the correct position.


Finish pairing up the remaining edges using Hardwick's 2 pair chain solving method

Green-white:

R U R' Uw'

White-orange:

y L' U2 L Uw

White-blue:

y' U' L' U L Uw

Blue-orange:

L' U' L Uw'

White-red and green-red:

L' U L Uw L' U' L F' L F L' Uw'

Finish! (now for the remaining 333 part)


I might make 1 or 2 more examples, but for now, I think these examples are good enough.
 
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uberCuber

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OK, that is enough about the notation, can we talk about the method now?

...you make a post implying something incorrect, I correct you so that you know for the future, and you get annoyed?

If you want to talk about the method, why did your post say nothing about it?


@Yau, thank you for doing this, sometime soon I will actually try this method out in some speedsolves. The first two centers example was interesting, I always just solve one ignoring the pieces of the second one, and then solve the second one independently..
 

kinch2002

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Wow that's awesome :) You say that you're not yet quick at doing the cross correctly, so how do you make the last 4 centers in the right place?

One little typo: Finishing the cross should be an F not an F': R' U L' F' L2 F
 

Robert-Y

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Thanks. From just practising reduction a lot, I got used to the colour scheme. I always know that if white is on top and red is on the left, then blue is on front. I basically memorised the relationship of these colours. I can always work out my fourth centre, from knowing my colour opposites and what I've just mentioned. Although I admit, I occasionally get it wrong.
 

Kenneth

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Thanks. From just practising reduction a lot, I got used to the colour scheme. I always know that if white is on top and red is on the left, then blue is on front. I basically memorised the relationship of these colours. I can always work out my fourth centre, from knowing my colour opposites and what I've just mentioned. Although I admit, I occasionally get it wrong.

Fixing center parity is not that bad : Uu2 M2 uu2 M2, how quick is that compared to look for the correct order while solving? Can't make much difference :)

To just solve opposites and do 4 move corrections in 50% of the cases may be faster on average than trying to look ahead while going.
 

maggot

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thanks for putting up more examples. it will be tough to get color neutral on 4x4 because of L4C, memorizing the relationship. like for me, i do the L4C the same way every time. red, green, orange, and blue automatically solves. i tried memorizing the relationship of colors to my cross to be CN. like, yellow would just be solved opposite, red blue orange green. but i still got confused when i tried to go fast.

i would like to hear why you would become CN on the 4x4? what are the benefits? on 3x3, the benfit is obvious, the cross and taking advantage of easy cases. but so much goes on with edge pairing, and with your method already constructing the cross, what are the benefits? to construct the 2 opposite centers and taking advantage of easier cases seems to be nice, but at the same time you have to deal with the color scheme. is it not easier just to stick with the same color scheme every time?

the way i use your method is very different. the way i solve is very inspired by this method. i am soon thinking of changing to 3chain 22222222 for the edgepairing after cross.

build white or yellow center, build opposite center.
construct 2 edges and place them correctly, like i was constructing a cross. (or just in opposite/adjacent relations and M2 U2 M2 to fix cross at the end)
construct last edge, place in the wrong relation to the cross. so, if it was blue, i would place adjacent to the green, not opposite, intentionally making the cross incorrect.
place 3 cross edges on the left face with the open cross slot on the LU, leaving the U face free to turn.
solve remaining 4 centers using R r 3R U and U'. red, green, orange, then blue automatically solves.
solve last cross edge group using R r 3R U and U'.
replace the edge i intentionally put in the wrong place with the last edge group, and then place the wrong cross edge in the correct spot of the cross.
restore centers, align centers, put cross on bottom (M2 U2 M2 to fix cross if necessary)
then i 6 pair the edges.

there is advantage and disadvantage for 6 pairing the remaining edges. the obvious disadvantage is cube rotations. the other one is running into cases where the edge you want to pair is already part of another pair (noob way of saying it is edge parity, is there a correct way to describe this situation?) but the great advantage of it is if you already have 2 edges already paired (by luck or whatever) then when you finish the 6 pair, your edges are done. typically when i solve, i will 6 pair and regardless of bad cases, i can end up with 0, 2, or 3 edges left. there are ways to just ignore the bad cases and slice your way out of them, this just comes with becoming familiar with what goes on. then i just use a 2 pairing to finish it off. also, if you have a miracle of many edges being already paired, you wont want to 6 pair obviously, but if you accidentally try to, you end up breaking up what you paired before you sliced because you run out of bad edge groups.

so, long story short, i think slice3 22222 is faster if you are comfortable with 2 pairing.
 

Robert-Y

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i would like to hear why you would become CN on the 4x4? what are the benefits? on 3x3, the benfit is obvious, the cross and taking advantage of easy cases. but so much goes on with edge pairing, and with your method already constructing the cross, what are the benefits? to construct the 2 opposite centers and taking advantage of easier cases seems to be nice, but at the same time you have to deal with the color scheme. is it not easier just to stick with the same color scheme every time?

Yes, you might as well just stick to the same cross every time. This is what Dan Cohen does all the time afaik he's pretty fast. I just like to be able to take advantage of easier F2C cases and cross edges which have already been paired up, without really knowing new things. The colour scheme is not a problem for me at least. One tip from me is to NOT rely on your cross as a centres guide (if you use my system where one cross dedge might be incorrectly placed).
 

gbcuber

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Any yau tips?

Hey,
I just started learning the yau method for 4x4. I find it a lot more fun than straight reduction, but I am averaging about 5 seconds higher. I was just wondering if any of you yau users out there had any tips for beginners on yau.
Thanks
 

Rainbow Flash

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Need Yau Method Algs

Hi everyone,

I've just started practising the Yau Method with 33 edges (and whatever's left). I'm too lazy to find out these algs on my own, so can you please give me a list of algs for:

1. Pairing up the last edges to complete my white/yellow cross. I find that if I pair the edges up the classic way, it messes up the 3 dedges that are already in place.

2. Pairing any non-cross edges without messing up the cross. This goes for all edges that are the leftovers of the 33 step.

Thanks in advance,
Rainbow Flash
 

IRNjuggle28

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List of algs for pairing up the last edges to complete my white/yellow cross without messing up first three edges
There's way too many; I don't even know where to start. If you post pictures with the cases you want solutions for, or set up cases in here, I'll post my solutions.
Pairing any non-cross edges without messing up the cross.
It's somewhat similar to how you solve F2L pairs on 3x3 without messing up the cross--never leave hanging cross edges. A lot of cases are solved with slice/R U R'/slice back, or slice/flipping algorithm/slice back.

Check out Feliks' Yau example solve video.
 
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