Just a rough a idea

Lotsofsloths

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Edges: R U2 R2 U2 R2 U2 R
Corners: (R U R' U') x3

So take a quick look at those algs(which BTW are both 2Gen):
The first one only affects the edges, while the second only affects the corners. So, firstly, orient the edges in the F2B2 group and orient the corners.

Edges:
Solve the edges first usuing the first alg and using UR as your piece that will be switching out, and DR as the piece that you will be shooting to.
Some setup moves are pretty intuitive. But we have a few setup moves(also like what shoudl you do) that are a problem.. what if you have to shoot to UF or UB?


Corners:
Look at what the alg affects, it affects the URF and DRF(it swicthes those 2 without messing the orientation) and it also affects URB and UBL(swicthes but messes the orientation up). So you would use URF as the piece that gets swicthed out, and DRF as the piece that you shoot to. The problem is:
What if you have to shoot into UFL or URB or UBL?


So overall I think the edges are a good idea,but the corners are kind of tricky, if anyone could help me perfect and rinse out all of the glitches of this BLD system(thats based of Pochmann) that would be very helpfull.
 
Here are all the commutators for all 3 cycles using UFR, and shooting to any sticker of one of the side effect corners, then to the "target" sticker of the other side effect corner. I am using UBL and UBR as the side effect corners here. Again I only have a beginners knowledge of M2 type methods, so I assume if you have to shoot to the side effect, you also will complete the cycle to the other piece in the side effect area, and even then to the target sticker? I am asking because I am unsure.

UFR->RBU->LUB: F' L U2 L' F L F' U2 F L'
UFR->URB->LUB: R' F' R B' R' F R B
UFR->BUR->LUB: R B L B' R' B L' B'
UFR->LUB->RBU: L F' U2 F L' F' L U2 L' F
UFR->UBL->RBU: F R2 F L2 F' R2 F L2 F2
UFR->BLU->RBU: B2 D B' U2 B D' B' U2 B'

Does that help?
Chris
 
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Shoot BR:
U2 R U2 R U2 R2 U2 R2 U2 R U2 R' U2
U2 R U2 R' U2 R2 U2 R2 U2 R' U2 R' U2
FR: Conjugate by R

(Or U2R/U2R' setup into H)

Shoot L-edges: Setup to UL, H-perm

Shoot UF: R2U'R'U'R2URURU2'R
Shoot UB: R2URUR2'U'R'U'R'U2R'

You could also use MU algs for, say DF.

I think its a nice idea, but practically too slow. And whenever I consider a BLD method, I always consider if I think it's fast enough to be practical.
However, it may turn out to be easy or have other significant redeeming features, enough to be worth it.
 
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Well Lucas the corners are very inaffective I agree but the alg for the edges and the setup moves are very fast.

As for the algs, I CAN shoot to these positions;
DF
DL
DB
DR
RF
FL
BL
BR
UL
(UR, just replace it with an unsolved piece)
but I don't know what do if I have yo shoot to THESE positions:
UB
UF
because those are the 2 pieces that just swicth and do nothing(switch just because you can't only swicth just 2 pieces)


For example In this scramble:
Scramble: L D' L2 R B D L' R2 D' F L R2 B' D2 B' U F2 U F' B L' U F2 U2 D'
1.) Orient all edges in F2B2 group.
2.) shoot to DL
shoot to DF
shoot to FR(E2 L' D2)
shoot to DR
shoot to FL
shoot to BR(E2 L D2)
shoot to DB(easiest place to claer the piece that ur switching)
shoot to UL
shoot to BL
Now you have to shoot to UF, which is one of the pieces that you switch everytime you preform the Edge Alg(kind of like in M2; the Middle layer edges)

@Chris: those are some mighty fine algs, just not sure as to what their purpose is?
 
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