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Sometimes when doing CS I'll have a case where all edges are connected, except for one that isn't connected(same layer). How do I set this up to Scallop-Kite?
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You have to slice it into a scallop pawn, than in the pawn there is a half kite kind of shape that you would bring up to the scallop so it would be a 5-1 and 2 case. Then, you can move the 5-1 so when you slice the bottom half of a kite would go on the bottom, then set up your 2 edge pair on the other side and boom, scallop kite!Sometimes when doing CS I'll have a case where all edges are connected, except for one that isn't connected(same layer). How do I set this up to Scallop-Kite?
You have to slice it into a scallop pawn, than in the pawn there is a half kite kind of shape that you would bring up to the scallop so it would be a 5-1 and 2 case. Then, you can move the 5-1 so when you slice the bottom half of a kite would go on the bottom, then set up your 2 edge pair on the other side and boom, scallop kite!
Okay, that used a lot of the squan lingo so just watch this instead.Uh huh.
What?
1. Because it's much easier to recognize the difference between black and white or black and yellow instead of yellow and white, and since there isn't such thing as color neutrality (well, there kind of is but being y2 CN is trivial on square-1 and the only difference is AUFs) you don't have to worry about it. It just makes it easier to solve, especially in low light conditions.So I've been watching videos on Squan, and I've noticed a couple weird things that I'm not sure of the reason behind. First, why do people who have a normal color scheme on 3x3 use a black side on Squan? And second, why do people switch the green and blue equator caps(therefore mirroring the color scheme)
Just be comfortable with your cube. It sounds like your turning style is very unrefined and you need to work on being accurate with your turns. Square-1 is extremely unforgiving if you don't turn accurately, so you need to slow down your turning to be accurate, and then speed up from there. You can't turn on a square-1 like a 3x3, like how you can't turn a big cube-like a 3x3. At this point you just need to adapt to your hardware being worse, It was not nearly as hard for me since I have been doing big cubes as my main focus ever since I started getting fast but your accuracy matters the most on square-1 than any other event aside from clock.@Sub1Hour How do I execute algs quickly with out locking up, dropping the cube, or my hand slipping? I average ~20 seconds, but I would be sub 16 without these problems. I use a B-Mod YLM squan.
Learn all of EO and CP, then learn chunks of non-parity EP cases with CSP. For how fast you could get, in my experience, I only know barebones Eo and EP and I'm sub 12, so you can get really fast with not a lot of algs.In what order should I learn the Vandenburgh alg sets, and about how fast could I get with them?
Practice, practice, and more practice. You don't need to learn big alg sets until you hit a wall. I feel like im either at or approaching a wall soon so I will most likely be learning some more alg sets. However if you feel like you are already at a wall, then learn some new algs and you will improve shortly.How should I get to sub 25? I know basic EP, CP, and most of EO but what should I learn? Should I learn full CS? CSP?
(1,0)/(0,3)/(3,0)/(-1,-1)/(-2,1)/(0,-3)/(-1 ,0)What is an alg for Lin CP+DF when the corners are solved? The wiki page gives diag swap and the 4 adj swaps, but not when the corners are solved. Should I just do an M2 uperm U' M2?
Edges on topFor SQ-1, would it be better to solve the edges on the top layer, or solve the 6-corner star in the bottom layer?