easiest method

akical

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Jun 29, 2008
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hi everybody.... i m new:D..i started yesterday. can you say me which method shuld i start? which one is the easiest to understand??
 
thanks for your help dae ja voo....... i have learned a method. but i dont know its name. first i make a + on the top. then make the corners same colour, then i make the second layer, but in third layer, there are a lot of combinations that i have to remember. it seems very hard to remember. i think this is LBL. if this is the easiest, i cant imagine the other methods :D
 
That is a LBL method, or layer by layer method. That is probably one of the best things to start with. Once you have memorized that and can average around 1minute to 1:30, you should learn Fridrich, Petrus, Roux, Heise, or any other method people may recommend to you.
Fridrich:
A LBL method. probably the easiest to advance to from where you are right now, it is very similar. Cross,F2L (first two layers) and then the last layer. It is the most widely used method and is used by most record holders.
Petrus:
A very interesting method. You start by making a 2x2x2 block, expanding to a 2x2x3 block, and doing the rest of the cube. To learn the method, go to lar5.com to learn it. The site is made by the creator of the method, lars petrus, and is the place to go tho learn the method.
Roux:
This method was created by Gilles Roux of France, and has proven to be a very fast method. You start by building a 3x2x1 block on one side, building one on the opposite side, orienting and permuting corners, and then orienting and permuting edges. This method is becoming very popular, and has proven to be fast given Mr. Roux is officially 13th in the world. Go to http://grrroux.free.fr/method/Intro.html to learn his method.
Heise:
I do not know much about this method, but if you would like to learn more, got to ryanheise.com to check it out.

Hope I've given you an insight on the world of cubing!
 
"but in third layer, there are a lot of combinations"

sounds like PLL and OLL to me
 
Might just be sune+fruruf OLLs, an edge cycle, and a corner cycle.
That alone was almost already way too much for me back in the past when I was still starting out.

Speedcubers actually have it quite a bit easier than beginners.
Remembering an alg by remembering a set of triggers and fingertricks is 100x easier than remembering each individual face turn the alg has (which is how beginners do it).
 
On the LBL method i learned i had to learn... um... 4 different algs for last layer, maybe that's what he's referring to.

Don't worry Akical. If you practice enough, those "combinations" (more commonly referred to as "algorithms") will become second nature. Most of us can learn one in a day or two (that includes muscle memory).

If you plan on getting really fast at cubing, get used to studying algs. You're going to learn at LEAST another 21.

But trust me, it's worth it. Being able to solve a cube faster than it takes to type out a post in a forum like this, for example, is very very rewarding :D
 
I think the easiest methos is :

1/ doing a face minus an edge.
2/ solve the opposites corners (two alg, sune+nicklas).
3/ with the previous face done on left (the missing edge on top) put 3 edges on M slice on R face, one by one.
4/ end in simplified roux style (3 moves algs).

alg learning is a very hard point for beginer, and a method like this one need only 2 algs, which is realy better than lbl.
 
When I first learned I searched the net for a tutorial and found the petrus site. I had give the whole LBL method a shot and didn't like it, it made no sense to me, but the petrus method was explained very clearly and I only needed to learn three algs; niklas sune and allan. So this is the method I first learned and have been doing ever since.
 
That's a very interesting intro to Roux, Amaury. I've been playing with it since last night and I may use it to teach my brother. I have issues with Roux step 4. My Fridrich mindset can't stand not having the centers aligned while orienting edges. :-)
 
I'm going to have to watch some videos or Roux or something. I don't really understand his edge orientation in step 4 and I can't finish the solve without using a U perm. :-)
 
That's easy.

My explaination are for yellow on top and white on bottom, blue on F and green on B.

You have to put the yellow or the whiter center on top using the M slice. In this position, you easily see what edge is correctly oriented. If an edge as white or yellow on top or bottom, he is correctly oriented.

To orient edges, you need to put a green or blue center on top, then do U or U'. You will change the orientation of the 4 edges around the blue or green center on top. If you do U2, you change orientation two time, so you don't change it ;)

You can orient edge only by 4. If you have 2 misoriented, change the orientation of 1 bad and 3 good, so you will have 4 edges to orient. That a very intuitive step.

Remember you can't do U or U' with blue or green on top. So we put a yellow or white center on top and use M2 the most of the time.

Then, you will put the RU and LU edges. Put one of them on bottom. If the other is on bottom too, it's easy. If you have the other edge on top, put the two edges diagonaly. You will put a green or blue center on top and do U2. You are now in a good case !
 
I'm sorry, I'm really interested in learning this and I appreciate you taking the time to explain, but these statements seem to contradict each other:
To orient edges, you need to put a green or blue center on top, then do U or U'.
Remember you can't do U or U' with blue or green on top.
Should the second say you can't do U or U' withOUT a blue or green on top?

Thanks,
e.
 
:p

I trying to get clear but it's difficult because I'm not a native english speaker.

When I say "Remember you can't do U or U' with blue or green on top." I mean you can't do that when you have oriented your edges ! Obviously, you need to do that to orient so you have to do it when you orient ;)
 
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Oh, got it. Thanks to your explanation, a somewhat poor tutorial on you tube and some more careful reading of Gilles' site, I think I'm getting it.

Thanks so much for your assistance. :-)
 
Eric, let me know if you get stuck on anything else. We can chat about it sometime if you want. I've been working on Roux for a couple of months now, and I really think it is the way to go. We will see where I am at a couple years from now. I was able to get down sub-30 with it though within a month and a half. It definitely helps to be able to solve sub-15 with Fridrich prior to practicing Roux, but I am still very new to Roux and can still get decent times. I get a sub-20 every now and then even with how slow I am at it. I can't wait to get decent at it.

By the way, I'd suggest you work with it and make it your primary method. We can meet up sometime when I get back in the Denver area and talk about it.
 
but, the fastest is still frid or roux?
Fridrich, Petrus, and Roux are all very fast methods. There isn't any "fastest" method. World records have been made with Fridrich, but that doesn't mean that it's the fastest. Less people use Petrus and Roux so not a lot of people are fast. Fridich averages about 55 moves per solve, and Petrus and Roux average about 45. If Petrus and Roux users did the same turning speed and world record Fridrich users, the Petrus and Roux users could probably become faster.
 
If number of moves is so important, why do people do an 11 move U-PLL or 14 move T-PLL when 9 and 10 suffice?
Speedsolving is not about using fewer moves. Optimal algs for every F2L/OLL/PLL/COLL/whatever have been found long ago, but people choose to use algs that are fast, not fewer moves. Fridrich is the fastest right now because it is a pretty braindead method and it seems to have the best balance between all important things in speedcubing (cuberotations, fingertrick-friendlyness, number of moves, number of looks, chances of getting lucky, etc). But all of that is only important if you are going for those sub-13 averages. If you don't, basically any method can get you sub 20.
 
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