Am I doing it Right?

[Aaronus23]

WELL.. i've been a fridrich guy for sometime now... i have 40ish times

and im feeling farly atracted to roux!!!

im thinking that before jumping right in... i should manage Color neutrality(to get started in block building)

so
directly to roux? or color neutrality first?

thx....!!!

 

[cubersmith]

I think you should Sub 30 fridrich before trying anythng else good luck

 

[Aaronus23]

i know i should improve some more before moving further but im soooo board of fridrich....(2look OLL + full pll)

 

[AndreasFrom]

I think you should Sub 30 fridrich before trying anythng else good luck

Then the switch would be even harder to convince yourself the worth of! If he's intrigued by Roux let him try Roux. If he likes it he can switch if not give Fridrich another go. No matter what he'll learn something.

On topic:
I am dealing with this my self (Read: sig), but I think I'm going for opposite neutral. I can better and quicker handle that than full.

 

[Aaronus23]

Then the switch would be even harder to convince yourself the worth of! If he's intrigued by Roux let him try Roux. If he likes it he can switch if not give Fridrich another go. No matter what he'll learn something.

On topic:
I am dealing with this my self (Read: sig), but I think I'm going for opposite neutral. I can better and quicker handle that than full.

i think full CN is better

but im not so good with block building... how can i start to get the habbit?

 

[AndreasFrom]

Avoid "slotting" as much as possible. Instead of two edges an a C/E -pair, join the corners and edges (forming a 1x2x2 block inc. center) and align that over the oriented and permuted edge.

When I do it this way, It's almost always more efficient. You might want to see my thread btw. I got some really nice answers.

P.S. I agree with you on full CN, just need to bite the apple and start training...My thread

 

[cuberkid10]

I think you should work with color neutral first. In Roux, it will make your times faster.

 

[AndreasFrom]

I think you should work with color neutral first. In Roux, it will make your times faster.

Are there any succesful color neutral Roux cubers? Most I've seen are opp. neutral.

 

[Ltsurge]

just persist at cfop
after u get down to a fast level you will almost certainly understand the cube better and thus be able to do block building easier!

 

[Aaronus23]

Hey... just to not create a new thread ill post my question here...

whats the point of edge fliping in petrus if U can insert the last couple of F2l pairs normaly?

 

[Aaronus23]

just persist at cfop
after u get down to a fast level you will almost certainly understand the cube better and thus be able to do block building easier!

before i even thoght of lerning beginers method.. i went to a whole bunch of theory (how an algorithm works, commutate r etc..)
cube understanding is(i think) very well for me

 

[Kirjava]

Full CN isn't a big deal.

 

[Ltsurge]

ah well... still i considered the move to roux when i was avg 45
somebody told me i'd have a ton of unused algs so that's what is going to happen to you
again i recommend sticking to cfop

 

[Aaronus23]

Full CN isn't a big deal.

I beg to differ.... Feliks Zemdegs(aka WR 3x3x3 holder) is color neutral... thats why im so focused into CN

 

[NeedReality]

Why do you think you have to start on color neutrality for blockbuilding? They don't really go hand-in-hand. I solve with fixed top/bottom colors (W/Y) and I believe BigGreen (sub-10 with Roux) solves with fixed top/bottom colors (O/R) as well, or at least that's what I've gathered from his videos.

Remember that just because -insert person here- is doing -insert technique/method/etc. here- doesn't mean that you should as well. Everyone is different, so don't feel that being color neutral is necessary in order to get good times (but if you really want to, then go ahead; I'm just trying to provide some perspective).

 

[AndreasFrom]

Hey... just to not create a new thread ill post my question here...

whats the point of edge fliping in petrus if U can insert the last couple of F2l pairs normaly?

With flipped edges you can go from 2x2x3 block to f2l using only R and U turns. Plus 2-look last layer can be achieved with 28 algs. 7 OCLL algs (Sune, antisune, headlights etc.) and full PLL, as the edges are already oriented.

 

[Sa967St]

I'm surprised no one has posted "URDOINGITWRONG" yet, the title asked for it.

 

[AndreasFrom]

Full CN isn't a big deal.

Then I won't bother training it. Most Roux solvers have fixed opposite colors anyway...

 

[waffle=ijm]

I think you should work with color neutral first. In Roux, it will make your times faster.

this this this this this this this

Simply because you're not going to restrict yourself into thinking about making a Corner-edge pair.

 

[JLarsen]

whats the point of edge fliping in petrus if U can insert the last couple of F2l pairs normaly?

The whole point of making a 2x2 is to reduce the cube to 3 layers. The point of making a 2x2x3 is to reduce the cube to 2 layers. Step 4 is the fastest, most ergonomical step in the method. And of course, as someone said, you only have to learn 7 OLLs for 2 look last layer, and those skip pretty often. In my opinion 2x2 and 2x2x3 are the "worst" steps in the method as far as speed/ease so by just inserting the pairs normally to me you're doing the worst steps of 2 different methods.