Waffle's Roux Tutorial

AUF so that the oriented corner is at FL, then look for the colours that match.

Great! btw, are they optimum for Roux?

I believe so, but I can't be sure, Anti-Sune is the only orientation that I know all of the algs for, I also know half of Sune and Half of H, as well as easy recognition for them.

EDIT: What do you think Waffle?
 
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AUF so that the oriented corner is at FL, then look for the colours that match.

Great! btw, are they optimum for Roux?

I believe so, but I can't be sure, Anti-Sune is the only orientation that I know all of the algs for, I also know half of Sune and Half of H, as well as easy recognition for them.

EDIT: What do you think Waffle?

I haven't looked at them yet. But I will later.

EDIT - WOW the recognition is easy.
 
http://grrroux.free.fr/method/Miscellaneous.html
It says here that your goal for step four should be 3 seconds? Is it possible to orient, do L and R edges, AND do the last step?]

edit: Here are the last words for step 4:

Using this simple technique (and a good cube), you can solve the last 6 edges and 4 centers in about 3 seconds on average (inspection and U adjustement included). No need to learn highly engineered last-layer sequences, and the few fingertricks based on <M, U> come quick.

- When centers are oriented (orange/red on top), the orientation pattern is very easy to recognize. Solving the last corner-edge pair of Step 2 almost always ends with an R/R' move. This means that you can choose to use r/r' if needed and orient centers early. Most of Step 3 sequences leave this orientation unchanged. It's often possible to recognize the orientation pattern of edges before the end of Step 3.
- The orientation step can be very fast, especially when there are exactly three bad edges in U-side. In 13 cases out of 32, it requires five moves or less. If you orient centers early, you can immediately detect a lucky case for this method.- Orientation sequences always end with M', and before this move, you have the choice between U and U'. Note that 4b sequences frequently begin with an inner slice move. In fact, 4a and 4b can be one only step. It's easy to locate L/R-edges during the orientation step (white and yellow facelets - bright colors - help in tracking them), even when going almost full speed. With practice, you'll see that merging 4a and 4b is a kind of natural auto-optimization.
- Step 4c sometimes begin with a U2 move, so don't put U-corners in place too fast at the end of 4b. Such an optimization is automatic when 4c is U2M2U2, and more difficult with a 3-cycle.


That's it, but how to you detect and what is a lucky case?
 
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@spdcbr - Yes. If I can see the case immediately I can sub-3 all of step 4

I can do each sub-step sub-2, but It feels like I should be doing 4b faster, how do you do it?

while orienting, track the UL/UR piece.

after orientation

if one piece is already on DF or DB, you know to put the other piece on UB or UF and then do M'U2M', adjust the U face and insert.


if both pieces are on DB/DF, adjust the U face and insert.

if one (or both) piece(s) is(are) on the M slice but on UB/UF, you know to do M2 adjust the U face and insert.

if no piece is on the M slice there are 2 possibilities
-both are correctly oriented and positioned on UL/UR
- both are correctly oriented but no positioned. adjust the U face and M2. adjust the U face and insert.

eventually you know what piece will go where with one glance and then you can just let that experience guide you.
 
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while orienting, track the UL/UR piece.

after orientation

if one piece is already on DF or DB, you know to put the other piece on UB or UF and then do M'UM', adjust the U face and insert.


if both pieces are on DB/DF, adjust the U face and insert.

if one (or both) piece(s) is(are) on the M slice but on UB/UF, you know to do M2 adjust the U face and insert.

if no piece is on the M slice there are 2 possibilities
-both are correctly oriented and positioned on UL/UR
- both are correctly oriented but no positioned. adjust the U face and M2. adjust the U face and insert.

eventually you know what piece will go where with one glance and then you can just let that experience guide you.

Wow, thanks, do you AUF after orientation?
 
no I move directly into UL/UR. also after UL/UR if you see a chance to AUF incorrectly but make the case easier go for it

Usually I put the edges into the bottom using (M U2 M') or (M' U2 M) if they aren't already together. Then I AUF, M2 and AUF again.

Do you think the steps on Waterman's site is worth learning?
 
no I move directly into UL/UR. also after UL/UR if you see a chance to AUF incorrectly but make the case easier go for it

Usually I put the edges into the bottom using (M U2 M') or (M' U2 M) if they aren't already together. Then I AUF, M2 and AUF again.

Do you think the steps on Waterman's site is worth learning?

...that's why I do...I though you meant right after the orientation.
 
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yes. if you can recognize the case quickly.

I'm thinking that I might learn the last 24 algs first, because my M ring 3 cycles take forever to recognize.


Thanks a lot for that link.
I'm going to use that page for crap cases only.

How are you going to tell if it's a crap case or not?
hmm...it seems that I misinterpreted the method a tad, but I meant learning algs for cases that I usually suck at for regular Roux solves.
 
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