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[Help Thread] Hoya Discussion

Yep. I solve it before the other 8 tredges, so I can put it in place as soon as possible. This avoids using F moves to get edges I need to pair from DF, but I guess it could be solved at any stage and inserted with F2 or R' F R.

I think I'd prefer to get it out of the way first.

What I also like about this is that if you don't solve the BDR and BDL corners until after reduction is done, you can probably just Keyhole them in during 3x3 stage. Seems appropriate for such a D-heavy method anyway.
 
What I also like about this is that if you don't solve the BDR and BDL corners until after reduction is done, you can probably just Keyhole them in during 3x3 stage. Seems appropriate for such a D-heavy method anyway.
Yeah, that could be good, but I can't see an advantage. Ensuring the corner isn't trapped in DF is easy, and inserting just the edge won't reduce the number of rotations compared to solving the slot... and you wouldn't have to solve the corners later. As you said, "I think I'd prefer to get it out of the way first" :p
 
Yeah, that could be good, but I can't see an advantage. Ensuring the corner isn't trapped in DF is easy, and inserting just the edge won't reduce the number of rotations compared to solving the slot... and you wouldn't have to solve the corners later. As you said, "I think I'd prefer to get it out of the way first" :p

Touché, sir :)

In that case, one other thought... while building the F2L tredge, you have ample time to determine its orientation. If it's oriented, F2 is fine. If it's unoriented, you could do a L F L' or R' F' R fingertrick to influence a 2-Gen F2L case. Just to avoid having to do any rotations before L2C is done.
 
Touché, sir :)

In that case, one other thought... while building the F2L tredge, you have ample time to determine its orientation. If it's oriented, F2 is fine. If it's unoriented, you could do a L F L' or R' F' R fingertrick to influence a 2-Gen F2L case. Just to avoid having to do any rotations before L2C is done.
Nice idea. Predicting where to AUF to not trap the corner is a bit trickier, but other than that that's really useful.
 
Nice idea. Predicting where to AUF to not trap the corner is a bit trickier, but other than that that's really useful.

If you always AUF the corner to the UBL and/or UBR positions anyway, it'll never be an issue.

Take a solved cube and do L F L'. Watch where all the corners end up. That's how I checked this. You'll also see what would happen if the corner piece is stuck in the DFR or DFL positions with the tredge.
 
If you always AUF the corner to the UBL and/or UBR positions anyway, it'll never be an issue.

Take a solved cube and do L F L'. Watch where all the corners end up. That's how I checked this. You'll also see what would happen if the corner piece is stuck in the DFR or DFL positions with the tredge.
Yeah... at the side opposite where you're doing L/R moves (e.g. for R' F' R, the L side) the back corner stays where it is and the front corner goes into the D layer. It's just considerably easier to predict where each of the U layer corners will be after an F2 (B corners stay where they are... that's it).
 
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Yeah... at the side opposite where you're doing L/R moves (e.g. for R' F' R, the L side) the back corner stays where it is and the right corner goes into the D layer. It's just considerably easier to predict where each of the U layer corners will be after an F2 (B corners stay where they are... that's it).

You might have done the move backwards.

If the corner is in UBR, and do R' F' R, the corner moves to UFL. So it's still in the U layer.
If the corner is in UBL, and do R' F' R, it stays there.
 
Hi,I am new here,and I like Hoya as well. But I have some problem and there is a fat lot data that I can find,I need your help.
 
After the 1st 4 centres I have been placing one of each cross piece (this step averages slightly over 4 moves optimally).

Can anyone who knows Hoya well tell me if this approach could be fast compare to the regular way?
 
After the 1st 4 centres I have been placing one of each cross piece (this step averages slightly over 4 moves optimally).

Can anyone who knows Hoya well tell me if this approach could be fast compare to the regular way?

I'm not fast by that's what I do because it seems so much more move-efficient. I might only put in 2-3 pieces that way if the others aren't obvious/easy or are already in the wrong places in the cross layer.
 
After the 1st 4 centres I have been placing one of each cross piece (this step averages slightly over 4 moves optimally).

Can anyone who knows Hoya well tell me if this approach could be fast compare to the regular way?
I think Hoya is similar with Yau
 
:( I'm afraid I can't search YouTube here

Check out the first page of this thread. There are a ton of videos linked on the very first post by Nilsibert.

After the 1st 4 centres I have been placing one of each cross piece (this step averages slightly over 4 moves optimally).

Can anyone who knows Hoya well tell me if this approach could be fast compare to the regular way?

It's OK, but it's ultimately not THAT efficient. There are a lot of little tricks you can use to place both dedges at the same time if you can spot them both with lookahead.


In other news, I decided not to use Hodder for now. Hoya5 is finally sinking in, but looking for those extra two tredges just throws me off. Once I level off with Hoya5 I'll think about adding that extra step.

I got 3 new PB singles in ONE session today. It was 2:17... then I got 2:15... then 2:12... then 2:11. I think it helps that I finally tuned my SS5. It was popping every few solves, but now it's working fine.
 
Check out the first page of this thread. There are a ton of videos linked on the very first post by Nilsibert.

I suppose he meant he can't access it (that would be the case if he is from China, Iran or some other country that has censored the web to some extend)
 
In other news, I decided not to use Hodder for now. Hoya5 is finally sinking in, but looking for those extra two tredges just throws me off. Once I level off with Hoya5 I'll think about adding that extra step.
I'm not too sure about your naming of different 5x5 methods. Imo, using normal Hoya on a 5x5 should still just be called Hoya, and the version that Odder and I thought of should be Hoya5 due to its similarity to Yau5 (Yau on a 5x5 is still called Yau, not Yau5). Either way, we should probably be consistent with our names, otherwise it's going to get confusing.
 
I'm not too sure about your naming of different 5x5 methods. Imo, using normal Hoya on a 5x5 should still just be called Hoya, and the version that Odder and I thought of should be Hoya5 due to its similarity to Yau5 (Yau on a 5x5 is still called Yau, not Yau5). Either way, we should probably be consistent with our names, otherwise it's going to get confusing.

JoeyVOV was the first one to use "Hoya5" a couple months ago. I thought it was a way to quickly distinguish which puzzle we were talking about. But I can see how that'd be confusing given the distinction between Yau and Yau5.

So far, no one besides Jong-Ho and Oscar has taken initiative on naming stuff, so I'm glad you brought this up. I'm not really familiar with cubing naming conventions (obv). So what you're saying is... Hoya5 simply be synonymous with Hodder?
 
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JoeyVOV was the first one to use "Hoya5" a couple months ago. I thought it was a way to quickly distinguish which puzzle we were talking about. But I can see how that'd be confusing given the distinction between Yau and Yau5.

So far, no one besides Jong-Ho and Oscar has taken initiative on naming stuff, so I'm glad you brought this up. I'm not really familiar with cubing naming conventions (obv). So what you're saying is... Hoya5 simply be synonymous with Hodder?

Hodder and Hoya is pronounced (almost, depends on the dialect) the same in danish, also, I clearly stated it was a Hoya variation, so Hodder is the name of the variation, not the actual method ^_^ I don't want to take the credit away from Jong-Ho.
 
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