Waffle's Roux Tutorial

I do that too, it's how most do it.
Now there's one important thing I'd like to tell you.
In the last six edges recognise EO by looking for U colour on top for L/R edges BUT recognise the rest relative to the centres! Don't bother orienting the centres. You'll thank yourself later.

There is a plethora of new techniques to be discovered by disregarding centre orientation, which unfortunately im only exploring now because I learnt to always orient centres first...

EDIT: Yes I only look at U and F for the whole of LSE.
 
I do that too, it's how most do it.

I've always assumed most look for the edge that has opposite colors relative to the centers. That's how I did it until I switched to what I posted earlier in this topic.

5BLD said:
Now there's one important thing I'd like to tell you.
In the last six edges recognise EO by looking for U colour on top for L/R edges BUT recognise the rest relative to the centres! Don't bother orienting the centres. You'll thank yourself later.

There is a plethora of new techniques to be discovered by disregarding centre orientation, which unfortunately im only exploring now because I learnt to always orient centres first....

I've been practicing this for years and still can't always recognize EO as fast as if the centers were oriented. It often requires cube tilts to check if that UL, UB, or DF edge belongs at L or R.

I recommend orienting the centers early. Then, learn some of the EO shortcuts that take advantage of changing the center orientation.
 
EDIT: Yes I only look at U and F for the whole of LSE.

I never treid if recognition of the last step is possible with looking at just 2 faces - I don't think it is. ( align centers and hold the cube with the "separated" edge at UF )




P.S.
In my opinion the edge that's 'on it\'s own' is not mean to be the solved one, but the one with 2 opposite colored centers next to it.
 
I have two small questions :

1. When building blocks, do I need to pay attention to the S slice? I feel like I don't.

2. I'm having trouble getting one of my edges up (still doing blocks). Often, you'll find the edge you're trying to pair up is on the bottom layer. While solving the first 3 pairs, it is okay, but I with the fourth one, I need to perform an S-slice turn. That's the only way, right?

I realize that I'm answering my own questions, but I feel like I need someone to confirm that what I say it right. Thanks!
 
I have two small questions :

1. When building blocks, do I need to pay attention to the S slice? I feel like I don't.

2. I'm having trouble getting one of my edges up (still doing blocks). Often, you'll find the edge you're trying to pair up is on the bottom layer. While solving the first 3 pairs, it is okay, but I with the fourth one, I need to perform an S-slice turn. That's the only way, right?

I realize that I'm answering my own questions, but I feel like I need someone to confirm that what I say it right. Thanks!

Um. You could use the middle layyer.
 
Um. You could use the middle layyer.

I'm building with a block on the F and one on the back, and then I turn it so work on corners. So yes, what I call S is actually the actual "M-Slice". (English not being my everyday language, I'm not quite sure if this is clear or not.)

Now that I think of it, I think it'll be better if I started building with "THE M-Slice" facing me...
 
I'm building with a block on the F and one on the back, and then I turn it so work on corners. So yes, what I call S is actually the actual "M-Slice". (English not being my everyday language, I'm not quite sure if this is clear or not.)

Now that I think of it, I think it'll be better if I started building with "THE M-Slice" facing me...

Yeah, I believe it is easier to do a block on the left and on the right. It is easier to track pieces(for me). And the S move is quite annoying to do.
 
I have two small questions :

1. When building blocks, do I need to pay attention to the S slice? I feel like I don't.

2. I'm having trouble getting one of my edges up (still doing blocks). Often, you'll find the edge you're trying to pair up is on the bottom layer. While solving the first 3 pairs, it is okay, but I with the fourth one, I need to perform an S-slice turn. That's the only way, right?

I realize that I'm answering my own questions, but I feel like I need someone to confirm that what I say it right. Thanks!

1. Of course! The S slice is important, especially the way you do it.
The way you do your block on F is fine as long as you do it in sub-10 moves on average. (or sub-13 if you're developing)
The problem with F is reduced visibility. Give U, B and L a go and see if it's better...

2. Not sure what you're asking, please elaborate...
But you can do Bw instead of F if its the first block. I do that sometimes.
Don't think of it as a cross edge then pairs; think of it as blockbuilding, the whole block as a whole. Try to get out of your CFOP habits if that was your previous method.
 
1. Of course! The S slice is important, especially the way you do it.
The way you do your block on F is fine as long as you do it in sub-10 moves on average. (or sub-13 if you're developing)
The problem with F is reduced visibility. Give U, B and L a go and see if it's better...

Okay, let's do this again. Let's say I construct my blocks on R and L. I tried today, and don't think it'll be that hard to get used to it. Do I need to pay attention to the M-Slice? (The actual M-Slice, the one I'll be turning later on to orient corners and everything) I feel like I don't, because since I'm always building blue on L and green on R, red is always F and orange is always B, so I don't really need to look at the centers to do so... Does this make more sense? Is that correct?
 
Okay, let's do this again. Let's say I construct my blocks on R and L. I tried today, and don't think it'll be that hard to get used to it. Do I need to pay attention to the M-Slice? (The actual M-Slice, the one I'll be turning later on to orient corners and everything) I feel like I don't, because since I'm always building blue on L and green on R, red is always F and orange is always B, so I don't really need to look at the centers to do so... Does this make more sense? Is that correct?

Well if you need an edge and its on the D face, you could use the M slice to bring it up. Look at videos and watch how others solve blocks.
 
Okay, let's do this again. Let's say I construct my blocks on R and L. I tried today, and don't think it'll be that hard to get used to it. Do I need to pay attention to the M-Slice? (The actual M-Slice, the one I'll be turning later on to orient corners and everything) I feel like I don't, because since I'm always building blue on L and green on R, red is always F and orange is always B, so I don't really need to look at the centers to do so... Does this make more sense? Is that correct?
As I said before, you do. Dont bother keeping M centres solved, use the M slice free properties of Roux to your advantage. And not just if the edge is in the D layer.

If you meant whether you should keep M solved, then no. But pay attention to the pieces in the slice.

But as I said don't bother keeping M slice centres intact; don't bother solving from only one orientation as there are so many more possibilities with a free M slice.

(The actual M-Slice, the one I'll be turning later on to orient corners and everything)
I hope you mean 'edges'.
 
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If you meant whether you should keep M solved, then no. But pay attention to the pieces in the slice.

But as I said don't bother keeping M slice centres intact; don't bother solving from only one orientation as there are so many more possibilities with a free M slice.

That's what I meant. Still new using the lingo.


I hope you mean 'edges'.

Ah ah, I did.
 
I have so many questions, thanks guys for being there :)

I know there has been studies with CFOP about people being color neutral when doing their cross. (I think the result showed you'd better stick to one color) So, my question is, am I doing a good choice to stick with one color using Roux? I always position my cube with white D, blue L and green R. Otherwise, I get mixed up when orienting corners.
 
Try using Green on L too. You'll be able to pick the best of two first blocks. Later, or now, you can also do this with Yellow on D. Giving you four blocks to choose from. It's easy and will save you from a hard to plan first block.
 
I've actually been experimenting with color neutral with Roux as well.
It's quite interesting to me, since rather than 6 options from the start like CFOP has, you have 24 potential 1x2x3 blocks to choose from...so, to be fully colour neutral would be nigh on impossible...but I think it would help to be able to have more than two starting points.
 
I've actually been experimenting with color neutral with Roux as well.
It's quite interesting to me, since rather than 6 options from the start like CFOP has, you have 24 potential 1x2x3 blocks to choose from...so, to be fully colour neutral would be nigh on impossible...but I think it would help to be able to have more than two starting points.

I too tried this. Didn't work, therefore I now do everything on the "x" axis. Which is 4 starting points.
 
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