Hardware differences between cube types

[JHB]

G'day guys,
I have read a lot of responses to peoples' questions about what the difference between cube types A, B, C, D, E and F are, but they only seem to talk about what makes each cube the best. I would like to know what the physical difference between each cube is. That is to say, what is it that makes a Type C a Type C- is it something about the core, or the way the cubies are molded? This would be helpful because I buy lots of cubes and forget what type they are. For example, this is a fantastic cube: http://cgi.ebay.com/DIY-Speed-Cube-...644?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d2afbd104
But how do I tell what type it is, or my Da Yans or my Cub4yous. Thanks everone!

 

[avgdi]

http://www.speedsolving.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12659

 

[splinteh]

Hi, you'll eventually be able to tell each cube apart by it's feel. Explaining the differences between the internal mechanisms of each cube would take a LONG time to explain. Sometimes the plastic is different. All cores are really the same. Some just are better than others. IMO, the Type A core is the best. Just go to the link avgdi posted.

 

[dillonbladez]

Hi, you'll eventually be able to tell each cube apart by it's feel. Explaining the differences between the internal mechanisms of each cube would take a LONG time to explain. Sometimes the plastic is different. All cores are really the same. Some just are better than others. IMO, the Type A core is the best. Just go to the link avgdi posted.

I would argue.
Cores tend to vary in quality. Some are also made out of different materials, whether to make it more flexible, or stronger.

Actually, for the OP, the type C doesn't have any significant hardware differences than storeboughts, or Rubik's.com DIY's.
I suppose the difference lies within the plastic quality, but don't quote me on this.

I can give some other examples, though.
What makes a Maru a Maru is it's superior core and hardwares. It is much more intelligently designed to allow greater tolerance. Also, I believe that it's edges are slightly modified from the usual cubies, to reduce lockups.

What makes an F-II and F-II is it's cubies are hollow, allowing it to be almost as light as paper. They have ridges in their edges, to significantly reduce surface area contact, but also, it stores away they "Cubedust" in these ridges to keep it from being crap. Also, if your F-II is the older version, it's have a small blue core, and long screws and slightly long springs. The screws will look quite weird in my opinion, compared to the Type A, C4Y, and Maru screws I often use.

I bet you this was just a waste of time

Edit: I actually believe that blue type c is the older version (maybe 1.3? i dunno xD theres too many!) due to their centre cap design. It is certainly not like the newer ones.

 

[JHB]

Thankyou very much everyone!