Older cubers discussions

[Logiqx]

Since this was the only half-decent result this weekend, I've uploaded my 7.35 Pyraminx average.

Solve 3 should really have been around 4 seconds but I forgot what I was doing after the first turn, blowing a 6.71 average.

Pauses / fumbles during the solves were just due to comp nerves and to be expected.

 

[Jason Green]

Since this was the only half-decent result this weekend, I've uploaded my 7.35 Pyraminx average.

Solve 3 should really have been around 4 seconds but I forgot what I was doing after the first turn, blowing a 6.71 average.

Pauses / fumbles during the solves were just due to comp nerves and to be expected.

Impressive I am like 20 seconds on that... or I was when I remembered how to do it. I like the guy taking a break to scratch his nose on the first solve in the background.

 

[Old Tom]

That's a good reminder! Not only do I need to make sure and record the time, but I need to pay close attention when I initial period. I've caught myself initialing and then thinking, did I even make sure that was right?

Also welcome @Old Tom! Hope you get to compete sometime it's really fun!

Jason, I am very curious about the competitions, and will be looking for one to attend. Especially if there's an award for the slowest cuber!

 

[SpartanSailor]

@Selkie my Shadow M 6x6 arrived today. Loving it! Only did one solve so far and can’t wait to get this broken in...

Edit: I was able to get a few solves in for the weekly comp. I’ve only done 6x6 once previously in that because it took my 25 mins! Lol. Today, I got all screwed up on my first and took the DNF. Then I still mabnaged a 9-something average with 6:49.93 new PB by a margin so large it’s better to just consider this a “new era”. Lol

Really enjoy the Shadow M. If the Red M is much better, I’d be shocked. But at twice the price, I’m glad I got the Shadow M. I’ll definitely do 6x6 more often ow that it’s not a half hour for one solve.

 

[SpartanSailor]

@Logiqx @Jason Green I’ve been burned by the poor penmanship of a judge before too. Now, I check closely and will ask the judge to write more neatly if I think it could be misread.

 

[newtonbase]

@Logiqx @Jason Green I’ve been burned by the poor penmanship of a judge before too. Now, I check closely and will ask the judge to write more neatly if I think it could be misread.

I've had it the other way and been given a big PB single. Luckily they don't tend to want proof when you ask for a slower time.
Can't sleep so got up and did a bit of 3BLD. Got a 1:32.64 Mo3 on my first 3 solves which I think is a massive PB. It was around 1:52 before IIRC.

 

[Selkie]

@SpartanSailor - I do blue cross on nearly all solves. I am a bit more colour neutral for OH where I probably do 50% blue crosses and a mixture of others.

As for my edge strategy that is a good question. I tend to pair up what I can see with two exceptions. I have a bias towards pairing up blue edges first, especially if I do not see an easier alternative. I also have a bias to trying to pair as much before a z2. I also try and store the first four edges in the same layer (U or D) so when those 4 are complete I do not need to z2 again and have better lookahead. Like you I correct centres for last 4 edges. A lot of my strategy comes from Feleks' big cube videos which are definitely worth a watch ... https://www.cubeskills.com/categories/big-cubes

@Logiqx - That is really unlucky mate, especially the mis-written time. I unfortunately see that quite a lot. Any backup videos help indeed. Hopefully your nerves will be less at Peterborough mate.

 

[muchacho]

I was averaging 28 and was quite pissed off, and then for a brief moment I was fast (or quite lucky).

OH Ao12 PB: 23.324 (was 23.625 from last week)

Spoiler

11962 05-jun-2018 16:43:47 00:24.615 R2 D2 R2 L2 D' R2 U2 L2 D L2 U' L' D' U2 R2 F L U' R D' R' U'
11961 05-jun-2018 16:43:02 00:25.615 F2 R2 D' L2 D2 U R2 U' B2 U' F2 R' B2 R B R U B F L2 U
11960 05-jun-2018 16:42:17 00:21.279 B2 R2 D2 F2 L2 F2 U R2 D2 L2 U' B U' F' D2 U2 B2 R L2 U' R
11959 05-jun-2018 16:41:30 00:22.894 D2 L2 U' L2 D' L2 D F2 D2 U R2 B' L B2 F' U F2 U2 R' B' R' U'
11958 05-jun-2018 16:40:43 00:22.943 F2 U' L2 B2 R2 D B2 U F2 R2 U' F' D2 L' B F2 D' F2 D' U' R' D2
11957 05-jun-2018 16:39:59 00:22.271 U B2 F2 L2 U' F2 D R2 U' L2 U F L2 B2 D F' U B' L' D F U'
11956 05-jun-2018 16:39:16 00:22.838 R2 F2 U B2 L2 F2 L2 D R2 F2 D' L U2 B L2 D2 U' L' U2 F
11955 05-jun-2018 16:38:32 00:25.439 L2 U R2 F2 R2 U' F2 D F2 L2 F2 R B2 R F' U' R B2 L' B D U'
11954 05-jun-2018 16:37:45 00:27.134 U2 R2 B2 U' B2 D L2 F2 U' L' F' U2 B2 U' B R D U' R B U'
11953 05-jun-2018 16:37:03 00:20.601 B2 D2 F2 D2 R2 B2 R2 U' B2 D' L2 B R2 U' L2 B D' R2 F D2 L' U2
11952 05-jun-2018 16:36:21 00:24.751 B2 U R2 B2 L2 U' L2 U' L2 B2 D2 B L F' U' F2 L U2 R' B' L2 U'
11951 05-jun-2018 16:35:44 00:19.880 R2 U2 L2 U' R2 D B2 L2 U B2 D' R U' F D2 L B R' U2 F' R U

 

[SpartanSailor]

@SpartanSailor - I do blue cross on nearly all solves. I am a bit more colour neutral for OH where I probably do 50% blue crosses and a mixture of others.

As for my edge strategy that is a good question. I tend to pair up what I can see with two exceptions. I have a bias towards pairing up blue edges first, especially if I do not see an easier alternative. I also have a bias to trying to pair as much before a z2. I also try and store the first four edges in the same layer (U or D) so when those 4 are complete I do not need to z2 again and have better lookahead. Like you I correct centres for last 4 edges. A lot of my strategy comes from Feleks' big cube videos which are definitely worth a watch ... https://www.cubeskills.com/categories/big-cubes

@Logiqx - That is really unlucky mate, especially the mis-written time. I unfortunately see that quite a lot. Any backup videos help indeed. Hopefully your nerves will be less at Peterborough mate.

I’ve learned a lot from Feliks videos too. I when working the last 4 edges, I find it useful to stick a solved edge into both rear slots—preferably the correct two edges and solve the f2l pair at the same time if I can see all the parts quickly enough. Then I only have the front two slots to work with for the final edge pairings.

It’s fun to play around for sure. Lots going on with the 6x6.

 

[MarcelP]

Ok guys, this has been driving me nuts. The 4x4 OLL parity alg r U2 x r U2 r U2 r' U2 l U2 r' U2 r U2 r' U2 r' that I use should also work on the last 3 edges on a 5x5. But when I do it I get on three sides different colors.. How do you do this alg on a 5x5?

 

[One Wheel]

Ok guys, this has been driving me nuts. The 4x4 OLL parity alg r U2 x r U2 r U2 r' U2 l U2 r' U2 r U2 r' U2 r' that I use should also work on the last 3 edges on a 5x5. But when I do it I get on three sides different colors.. How do you do this alg on a 5x5?

r U2 x r U2 r U2 r' U2 l U2 r' U2 r U2 3r' U2 r'

 

[MarcelP]

r U2 x r U2 r U2 r' U2 l U2 r' U2 r U2 3r' U2 r'

OMG, you are a life saver! I always did

r U2 x r U2 r U2 r' U2 3l U2 r' U2 r U2 r' U2 r'

 

[Sergey]

Ok guys, this has been driving me nuts. The 4x4 OLL parity alg r U2 x r U2 r U2 r' U2 l U2 r' U2 r U2 r' U2 r' that I use should also work on the last 3 edges on a 5x5. But when I do it I get on three sides different colors.. How do you do this alg on a 5x5?

I'm using:

Rw U2 x Rw U2 Rw U2 3Rw' U2 Lw U2 Rw' U2 Rw U2 Rw' U2 Rw'
with lefty-righty flicks -
Rw U2 x Rw U2 Rw U2' 3Rw' U2 Lw U2 Rw' U2' Rw U2 Rw' U2' Rw'

In case of yau5 it is needed to fix cross edge after.

BTW, http://meep.cubing.net/ - some cool algs for 4x4 and 5x5.

 

[SpartanSailor]

I'm using:

Rw U2 x Rw U2 Rw U2 3Rw' U2 Lw U2 Rw' U2 Rw U2 Rw' U2 Rw'
with lefty-righty flicks -
Rw U2 x Rw U2 Rw U2' 3Rw' U2 Lw U2 Rw' U2' Rw U2 Rw' U2' Rw'

In case of yau5 it is needed to fix cross edge after.

BTW, http://meep.cubing.net/ - some cool algs for 4x4 and 5x5.

I always make sure the edge parity (if I can’t avoid it) appears on an edge from the side opposite my cross. For me, I use white cross so place the edge party in a yellow edge piece. This way, I don’t have to remix my cross piece. I also wait to fix my edge parity until after my F2L is complete...

 

[xyzzy]

I always make sure the edge parity (if I can’t avoid it) appears on an edge from the side opposite my cross. For me, I use white cross so place the edge party in a yellow edge piece. This way, I don’t have to remix my cross piece. I also wait to fix my edge parity until after my F2L is complete...

For odd cubes (5 and 7) or even cubes (6) or both? There's a minor advantage in using it for Yau5 on 555 (you get to avoid a cube rotation sometimes) and for redux on even cubes (combining it with OLL parity), but it seems useless for redux on odd cubes.

 

[SpartanSailor]

For odd cubes (5 and 7) or even cubes (6) or both? There's a minor advantage in using it for Yau5 on 555 (you get to avoid a cube rotation sometimes) and for redux on even cubes (combining it with OLL parity), but it seems useless for redux on odd cubes.

I’m not sure I understand your question... bear in mind, that even though I “can” solve the bigger cubes I’m not especially “speed” cubing when doing so. I don’t focus on them, but have come to enjoy them much more with better hardware.

Anyway, I essentially solve them all the same way (555,666,777 that is). I do centers (top/bottom then around the other four in order). Then I do my first 8 edges generally using freeslice. However, I track my white edges first and store them on bottom out of the way. If I see another color edge forming easily, I’ll do it, but normally do 4 white centers first. Then, I do the next four and store them on top. At this point, I solve the cross and usually the back to f2l pairs leavening the two front slots open and two unsolved edges on top now. Then, I just pair up those edges. If a parity forms, I just continue into the remaining f2l pairs before addressing the parity.

For 555 and 777, I’ll just fix parity before doing my OLL. Then, OLL and PLL. Done.

For 666, I’ve noticed that I can get a edge parity AND OLL parity AND PLL parity. If I were smart and motivated, I would learn new parity algs to solve each edge parity condition more efficiently and some of those will fix OLL parity too. But I’m not. I’m still solving my edges with essentially the 444 OLL parity alg. It’s the same one someone else referred to earlier with righty and lefty flicks. Then, if I have OLL parity, I just do it again, but with 3R moves for all the R moves. If I get PLL parity, same... I do the same as I would for 444 except is the inner 2 layers instead of the inner single layer.

Make sense?

 

[One Wheel]

For 666, I’ve noticed that I can get a edge parity AND OLL parity AND PLL parity. If I were smart and motivated, I would learn new parity algs to solve each edge parity condition more efficiently and some of those will fix OLL parity too. But I’m not. I’m still solving my edges with essentially the 444 OLL parity alg. It’s the same one someone else referred to earlier with righty and lefty flicks.

I'm color neutral for everything except megaminx and BLD, but on 6x6 it's probably worth it to force apparent edge parity to an opposite cross color and then finish f2l. At that point you can easily see whether you need to swap inner wings or outer wings. Swapping inner wings is the same as the 4x4 parity alg, except with inner slices instead of outer blocks, and U2 Lw Rw' on the end. Faster than executing 2 parity algs.

 

[xyzzy]

For 555 and 777, I’ll just fix parity before doing my OLL. Then, OLL and PLL. Done.

Okay, going from your description of how you do two F2L pairs before finishing edge pairing (which is like Yau5/Hoya5), leaving parity to a last layer edge isn't too bad. But also:

on 6x6 it's probably worth it to force apparent edge parity to an opposite cross color and then finish f2l.

If it's already on an LL edge, sure, leave it to OLL to fix it so you can avoid edge parity + OLL parity. But otherwise, you need to do a slice-flip-slice to force it, and that's what makes it a questionable strategy. You need to make sure you're not replacing something slow (edge parity + OLL parity) with something even slower (depends on how fast slice-flip-slice is for you).

This is less relevant if you're "more" colour neutral. If you're fixed-cross, you have only four edges to leave parity on. If you're dual CN (e.g. white and yellow), then you have eight choices. If you're full CN, then you have all twelve choices and there's never a need to force parity to be on one colour. I'm white/yellow dual CN, so for 666 I leave parity on a white/yellow edge if it happens, but otherwise I fix it ASAP.

 

[SpartanSailor]

Okay, going from your description of how you do two F2L pairs before finishing edge pairing (which is like Yau5/Hoya5), leaving parity to a last layer edge isn't too bad. But also:


If it's already on an LL edge, sure, leave it to OLL to fix it so you can avoid edge parity + OLL parity. But otherwise, you need to do a slice-flip-slice to force it, and that's what makes it a questionable strategy. You need to make sure you're not replacing something slow (edge parity + OLL parity) with something even slower (depends on how fast slice-flip-slice is for you).

This is less relevant if you're "more" colour neutral. If you're fixed-cross, you have only four edges to leave parity on. If you're dual CN (e.g. white and yellow), then you have eight choices. If you're full CN, then you have all twelve choices and there's never a need to force parity to be on one colour. I'm white/yellow dual CN, so for 666 I leave parity on a white/yellow edge if it happens, but otherwise I fix it ASAP.

I see...

I learned that first 2 pairs in rear slots trick from trying Yau 5. I don’t do the cross part, but like that little trick to reduce where I am looking for the final 4 edges.

I wont blow my time trying to force an edge parity if one magically happens in the last 4 edges. However, if at other points in the solve there is an edge parity, I fix it on the fly. For example if on 555 there the middle and one one the wings are together but flipped, I’ll fix that with slice-flip-slice, which is pretty quick for me.

When I buckle down and try to improve on the bigger cubes I’ll figure out what’s more efficient and do it that way.

I just did a 666 solve and realize (not news to me) that I’m not very efficient. I do a LOT of edge flips throughout the edge pairing stage.

 

[pglewis]

My Yuxin HuangLong M stickerless finally arrived yesterday and my early impressions match what I've read. I'm a fan of the Little Magic and I still go through spells where I really enjoy doing practice solves on it for days despite some fatal flaws that preclude me from maining it for 3x3, even with magnets. It immediately made me wonder what Yuxin could do with a modern flagship-caliber 3x3 so I was looking forward to this one.

I'm exclusively stickerless and magnetic for my 3x3s these days. The stickerless shades are great to me, relatively close to the Valk 3's shades with a more vivid red and a darker green; the contrast looks good to my eyes. GTS2M is pretty much my main and the shades on the Moyu look slightly "washed out" in comparison. Tensions were sane and even out of the box, if maybe a little tight, with no noticeable spring noise. The magnets do their job without making me think about them.

I've developed a taste for fast puzzles and low turning resistance for 3x3. For silicone I currently only use Lubicle Speedy, plus DNM as needed. Anything heavier as a piece-lube, including Silk, tends to risk slowing up for me especially during the winter months when it gets very dry here. The Yuxin was quite dry out of the box so I gave it a little Speedy and DNM after a few experimental turns. It didn't require much break-in to start feeling the puzzle's reported speed, just a handful of solves.

Cutting isn't quite the effortlessness of my GTS2Ms, though it seems to have a wide tension range and tolerates rather loose tension for me without sacrificing much stability. Corner cutting improved with a lower tension than shipped but I haven't experimented on a sweet-spot yet. It does bring the speed and I suspect the design may be resistant to gumming up. I'm used to light turning and it's not out of control at all for me but I may have to adjust slightly vs. my GTS2s. I haven't tried a 3bld session with it yet.

Overall: I can't fully know the performance until I've solved in anger in some longer sessions and done some 3bld but my instincts are that I could main this just as easily as my SCS Valk 3M or factory GTS2Ms. All three are excellent puzzles with their own strengths. This one has its own character, they all feel different and I think I could trust any of 'em in an official 3x3 solve depending on my mood at the time.