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What is necessary to be sub-10?

RTh

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Hi,

I've been some time stuck averaging between 17 and 20 sec. I want to get consistent sub-15 for June, but in order to get to that point, I think I need some tips.

Practice is always the key in speedcubing, but that practice could give better results if you aim for specific results, or aim to change in a specific way.

So, what do you think that it's necessary to be sub-10? How much should take you to make each F2L pair and insert it? How much recognition time for OLL and PLL? How many TPS you should keep through the solve?

Also, stuff everybody aiming to sub-10 should know. Edge orientation or corner tracking or whatever you thing is useful to improve your times. (Link to threads about this are welcomed).

And, what is that difference between a cuber that averages 20 and one that averages 10? Those things that you changed in months of practice that were decisive for your solves.

Basically, tips thread =]

Thanks in advance.
 
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asportking

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Is it really important to be color-neutral to get sub 10? I'm opposite color neutral, but would being color neutral be necessary, or at least make it easier, to get sub 10?
 

Elbeasto94

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Is it really important to be color-neutral to get sub 10? I'm opposite color neutral, but would being color neutral be necessary, or at least make it easier, to get sub 10?

Their are plenty of people who can sub 10 without being color neutral, but I think it does decrease your cross time by a little over a second and that is all the difference between being sub 10 and not.
 

RTh

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Is it really important to be color-neutral to get sub 10? I'm opposite color neutral, but would being color neutral be necessary, or at least make it easier, to get sub 10?

Not necessary, but it'll give you some advantage in many cases.

I'm transitioning to color neutral. My avg is not 18.50 instead of 17.88, but at least i can solve starting with any face.
 

Escher

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Is it really important to be color-neutral to get sub 10? I'm opposite color neutral, but would being color neutral be necessary, or at least make it easier, to get sub 10?

I'm opposite cross neutral and I'm sub-9, and Breandan Vallance, Stefan Huber and Gabriel Dechichi (all sub 8 PBs) use fixed cross as far as I'm aware (though I know Gabriel made a post ages ago about attempting to switch, I don't know if he kept that up).

In my opinion if you don't naturally choose to be colour neutral when you begin cubing there's just too much effort involved in learning to be, I've never heard of anybody faster than 15s average managing to change.
 

JustinJ

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I'm opposite cross neutral and I'm sub-9, and Breandan Vallance, Stefan Huber and Gabriel Dechichi (all sub 8 PBs) use fixed cross as far as I'm aware (though I know Gabriel made a post ages ago about attempting to switch, I don't know if he kept that up).

In my opinion if you don't naturally choose to be colour neutral when you begin cubing there's just too much effort involved in learning to be, I've never heard of anybody faster than 15s average managing to change.

Ibrahim changed, but I don't think it was easy.
 

Dacuba

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I'm becoming CN at the moment, but very slowly, I don't put that much effort in it, but I'm doing CN Sessions from time to time. (usually average on main cross: high17)
It is just uncomfotable at the beginning and you have to get used to it, what I'm doing right now.

I can get sub20 with White, yellow, and almost red already, orange is next.

But @ Topic: How's about a road to sub10 article in the speedsolving wiki that is written only by cubers who archieved a steady sub10 yet? Would be awesome!
 

RTh

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I'm becoming CN at the moment, but very slowly, I don't put that much effort in it, but I'm doing CN Sessions from time to time. (usually average on main cross: high17)
It is just uncomfotable at the beginning and you have to get used to it, what I'm doing right now.

I can get sub20 with White, yellow, and almost red already, orange is next.

But @ Topic: How's about a road to sub10 article in the speedsolving wiki that is written only by cubers who archieved a steady sub10 yet? Would be awesome!

Good idea that last part. Was partially my goal, to make a little guide of tips and steps in your way to sub-10.

BTW, to be CN you should solve for a week looking for crosses with the other colors, avoiding your usual ones. I'm almost cross neutral and it's been 4 days solving with every face. But I must say I sometimes screw the F2L because I build a pair with the wrong color as down-color.
 

qqwref

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IMO the differences are:
- make sure to learn all algs, and I mean not just a move sequence that solves it, but the series of fingertricks that let you execute it fast, and where to look to find the next step's pieces
- fast turning
- lookahead and fast recognition even when you're turning at near max speed during F2L
 

Schmidt

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I "just" want to be sub30, and this is how I plan to achieve that:

Cross: 7 moves = 4s = 1,75 tps
F2L : 4*8 moves = 16s = 2,00 tps
OLL : 10 moves = 5s = 2.00 tps
PLL : 13 moves = 5s = 2.60 tps

moves= avg. of moves in the algs used for each step.

So to be sub10, these stats should read:

C: 1.33s = 5.25tps
F: 5.33s = 6.00tps
O: 1.66s = 6.00tps
P: 1.66s = 7.80tps
 

RTh

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I "just" want to be sub30, and this is how I plan to achieve that:

Cross: 7 moves = 4s = 1,75 tps
F2L : 4*8 moves = 16s = 2,00 tps
OLL : 10 moves = 5s = 2.00 tps
PLL : 13 moves = 5s = 2.60 tps

moves= avg. of moves in the algs used for each step.

So to be sub10, these stats should read:

C: 1.33s = 5.25tps
F: 5.33s = 6.00tps
O: 1.66s = 6.00tps
P: 1.66s = 7.80tps

I usually do 10-16 TPS in PLL (for example, J-perm in 0.83, and U-perm in 0.78). So, from that 1.66s for OLL or PLL, 0.66 should go to recognition.

But anyway thanks for calculating that =]
 

Schmidt

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Then it seems like your tps are high enough to be sub10. I guess that means you are to slow in your look-ahead / recognition.
If you do the same scamble again and again, can you be sub10?? You can try my "Double Kill Scramble" It is easy to remember:

M U R D E' R M U R D E' R
 
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