Older cubers discussions

:) I just use knife. Both for taking out stickers and sticking. In Polland most cubers buy stickers from Michał "Józek" Halczuk. He makes very good stickers in few patterns and they are cheap.

I have a small problem with my stickers on Aosu. I dont know why they just pull up. Especially on few pieces. I dont have that problem with any of my cube except this one. I think there must be something on the surface of the block... But what??

BTW I keep improving in 4x4. I got cold and took day off, so I've made some solves today and my ao50 (with yesterday's solves) is now sub 1:20.
 
h2f said:
BTW I keep improving in 4x4. I got cold and took day off, so I've made some solves today and my ao50 (with yesterday's solves) is now sub 1:20.
Click to expand...
Hey I also got sick last week and had some time off, and did a few 5x5 solves. I have done nothing but 5x5 for a couple of weeks now (except a few 4BLDs) as I'm determined to make the UK soft cut. Yesterday I got an ao12 of 2:35 so I am getting closer! Three of those solves were sub-cut. If I make it to the WTC comp in 3 weeks, that's my main goal.

Haven't done any proper 3x3 or 4x4 practice for 1-2 months now.
 
I found the tape pretty easy to use. It would be even easier if it was a bigger piece I think, like the video on the cubicle showed. This piece came with the Gans.

I tried to set down gently enough to be able to lift up if it was misaligned. Once I did that. But another time I started to and the sticker was stuck pretty well so I left it. It turned out pretty good though.

I think there is an invention that needs to be made for aligning the tape to apply. :)
 
h2f said:
Wow. That's fine. What method do you use? I do reduction on M slice but I think about switching to Hoya or Yau5...
Click to expand...
I use my own Hoya variant. It sacrifices a little move efficiency for easier look ahead and finding of pieces.

After the cross is done and I hide the DB tredge (F' R') to fix the L2C, I solve another tredge in DB Hoya-style then hide that with F L. Then fix L2C. Then I solve L7E before restoring the cross. The advantage of this is that the back two slots are filled so all the L7E are in visible positions for good lookahead. I use AvG for edge pairing.

Have a look in the 5x5 edges efficiency thread for a reconstruction.
 
mafergut said:
It's almost fluro-everything. You're only missing fluro-blue, which is a bit light for my taste. The only difference with my scheme is that I use regular red and it chips A LOT! Maybe I'll use fluro red next time.
Click to expand...

The sky blue is 100% as the MoYu shades. I and really like that. It contrasts very well with fluo green. Fluo Red and Fluo orange also have great contrast. On white cubes I can settle with normal red but on black cubes that is just too dark and messes up my recognition. I saw that Chris Olson uses pink instead of red. That looked like a great contrast too...

EvilGnome6 said:
Those are almost as cool as my shades. ;)

http://thecubicle.us/stickers_share.php?public_id=27036
Click to expand...

I might have to try your bright yellow one time. :)
 
mark49152 said:
I use my own Hoya variant. It sacrifices a little move efficiency for easier look ahead and finding of pieces.

After the cross is done and I hide the DB tredge (F' R') to fix the L2C, I solve another tredge in DB Hoya-style then hide that with F L. Then fix L2C. Then I solve L7E before restoring the cross. The advantage of this is that the back two slots are filled so all the L7E are in visible positions for good lookahead. I use AvG for edge pairing.

Have a look in the 5x5 edges efficiency thread for a reconstruction.
Click to expand...

It's very clever. I used Hoya on 5x5 and 6x6 some time ago, but gave up.
 
My times werent going down and after a month my times with pure redubtion were the same. I thought that doing first 3 arms of cross with Hoya is as much hard as doing first 3 tredges with reduction. That's why I've decided to back to reduction. Though my practice wastn hard and I havn't done tons of solves. But when I look at your solves (I think you put some yt movie here) or Mike's (EvilGnom6) I think it's worth to check it again.
 
h2f said:
My times werent going down and after a month my times with pure redubtion were the same. I thought that doing first 3 arms of cross with Hoya is as much hard as doing first 3 tredges with reduction. That's why I've decided to back to reduction. Though my practice wastn hard and I havn't done tons of solves. But when I look at your solves (I think you put some yt movie here) or Mike's (EvilGnom6) I think it's worth to check it again.
Click to expand...

If your first 3 tredges with reduction were always Cross tredges, I can totally see where you're coming from. Recognition won't feel any faster, and then solving will feel less efficient. The payoff for Hoya doesn't start until after L2C.

I'm using Hoya on both 6x6 and 7x7, and have a decent 7x7 solve on my YT channel (4:30.xx). And I hope I can find time to make a video discussing Hoya on BigBig cubes, providing tips for increasing recognition and efficiency. But y'know... life is busy.
 
h2f said:
I thought that doing first 3 arms of cross with Hoya is as much hard as doing first 3 tredges with reduction.
Click to expand...
Were you building each tredge in full before moving on? I think the nice thing about Hoya cross is that you don't have to. You just scan the top half of the cube for pieces with your cross colour on them, and insert them one by one to the bottom layer. I just do them in the order I see them and try to keep moving, with no pauses, even if it takes more D moves. Pieces trapped on the bottom get knocked out as you go.
 
mafergut said:
It's almost fluro-everything. You're only missing fluro-blue, which is a bit light for my taste. The only difference with my scheme is that I use regular red and it chips A LOT! Maybe I'll use fluro red next time.
Click to expand...

I'd watch out about getting fluro red, because of contrast. I don't have a cube with fluro orange and red, but my Hualong has Fluro Orange and Fluro pink, and they don't contrast well.
 
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Chree said:
If your first 3 tredges with reduction were always Cross tredges, I can totally see where you're coming from. Recognition won't feel any faster, and then solving will feel less efficient. The payoff for Hoya doesn't start until after L2C.

I'm using Hoya on both 6x6 and 7x7, and have a decent 7x7 solve on my YT channel (4:30.xx). And I hope I can find time to make a video discussing Hoya on BigBig cubes, providing tips for increasing recognition and efficiency. But y'know... life is busy.
Click to expand...

I've learnt Hoya from your tutorial. This would be great. :)

mark49152 said:
Were you building each tredge in full before moving on? I think the nice thing about Hoya cross is that you don't have to. You just scan the top half of the cube for pieces with your cross colour on them, and insert them one by one to the bottom layer. I just do them in the order I see them and try to keep moving, with no pauses, even if it takes more D moves. Pieces trapped on the bottom get knocked out as you go.
Click to expand...

Yes, I did so. It'll be the first thing to correct it.
 
MarcelP said:
The sky blue is 100% as the MoYu shades. I and really like that. It contrasts very well with fluo green. Fluo Red and Fluo orange also have great contrast. On white cubes I can settle with normal red but on black cubes that is just too dark and messes up my recognition. I saw that Chris Olson uses pink instead of red. That looked like a great contrast too...
I might have to try your bright yellow one time. :)
Click to expand...

I have tried fluro pink in 3 cubes that I do not use that much. A blue plastic Zhanchi (it looks great on it), a black Guanlong (I like how it looks but the cube feels so cheap...), a white Aurora, where my recognition is completely messed up (it's my only white cube). I don't seem to have problems with recog just because of the change of red for pink and, as Chris says, it looks cool :)

EvilGnome6 said:
I was getting the fluro yellow and white mixed up in poor lighting and the bright yellow has a bit more contrast. Unfortunately, it's a bit closer to the orange but still better for me overall.
Click to expand...

Same problem here with fluro yellow in poor lighting. I will also have to try bright yellow and see if that improves.

Here you have my schemes with red and pink.

And a photo of my Zhanchi:

IMG_20151130_223503.jpg
 
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