byu
Veteran
@Cuber1974, just click on the .jar file.
@teller, I mentioned that before. I always use CubeTimer.
@teller, I mentioned that before. I always use CubeTimer.
Moving from LBL to Fridrich... YIKES!!!!111
- Thread starter Cuber1974
- Start date
teller
REAL Fingertricks!
Ellis
Veteran
pfft, cubetimer. I hate that it doesn't stop as soon as you press the timer. You're losing probably .1 seconds on every solve. That probably doesn't seem like a lot, but byu... now you've got to get sub 9.90 to get your first sub-10 solve :rolleyes:
byu
Veteran
No, that means I need sub 10.10
Lord Voldemort
He-Who-Must-Not-Be-Named
Learn intuitive F2L.
You can get sub30 with 4LLL, which like 20 (?) algorithms.
It's difficult, but certainly doable.
@ byu - 10.10 + .10 = 10.20, not sub 10
EDIT: And this is good inspiration http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qLki-254ZKA
Sub 20 with lbl and 4LLL. Of course, he's one of the best cubers in the world.
You can get sub30 with 4LLL, which like 20 (?) algorithms.
It's difficult, but certainly doable.
@ byu - 10.10 + .10 = 10.20, not sub 10
EDIT: And this is good inspiration http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qLki-254ZKA
Sub 20 with lbl and 4LLL. Of course, he's one of the best cubers in the world.
Last edited:
Ellis
Veteran
lol no, it ADDS .1 second. If you got a solve that was actually 10.10, the timer would read ~10.20, so for the timer to read anything below 10.00, you'd need something more like 9.90.
Cheers, I had to do a little searching but found the actual page on Garron :
http://cube.garron.us/cct/
Downloading now...
Mmmmm Puuuurdy!
byu
Veteran
OK then, does that mean I should be disqualified on all my events for all the weekly competitions? because I used cubetimer...
Ellis
Veteran
No. Maybe if it were the other way around, but even then it's not important because you didn't know. I used to use cubetimer for the sunday contest, and that was before the 10/12 average bug was fixed. I forget what it was, it was calculating the wrong average for a 10/12.
Maybe try rubetimer.com? That's what I switched to.
Maybe try rubetimer.com? That's what I switched to.
So is CCT considered the 'best' scrambler & timer package to use?
I mean I know everyone has their own personal favourite... but if we're looking at this from a competition standpoint, is CCT the benchmark that most people use?
I've managed to configure it and get it going - it certainly feels the goods!
Cheers
I mean I know everyone has their own personal favourite... but if we're looking at this from a competition standpoint, is CCT the benchmark that most people use?
I've managed to configure it and get it going - it certainly feels the goods!
Cheers
byu
Veteran
It's the most popular, I don't know about best, possibly.
Hello everyone, I'm back 
I've been working on intuitive F2L and just getting to grips with it now, then using standard beginners LBL to finish the last tier.
My current Avg over 5 solves is about 3:35 which is very sloooooooow, but I needed a starter benchmark in order to track my progress.
But at least I can actually start to solve the F2L with the correct method, just turning slow.
I've been working on intuitive F2L and just getting to grips with it now, then using standard beginners LBL to finish the last tier.
My current Avg over 5 solves is about 3:35 which is very sloooooooow, but I needed a starter benchmark in order to track my progress.
But at least I can actually start to solve the F2L with the correct method, just turning slow.
Gparker
Veteran
thats not bad, i was at like 4 minutes when i was learining F2L, a begginers last layer is good for now but once you got the hang of F2L, learn 4LLL.
And just to make it clear. CCT is the BEST timer, in my opinion. save scrambles, the time you did it, keeps track of how your doing,custimization, a voice that says what the time was, and you can use a Stackmat timer with it.
And just to make it clear. CCT is the BEST timer, in my opinion. save scrambles, the time you did it, keeps track of how your doing,custimization, a voice that says what the time was, and you can use a Stackmat timer with it.
holypasta
Regular
i agree. i learned keyhole between LBL and fridrich F2L, because i thought it would act as a nice segue into fridrich. however, it doesn't really do much to that effect -- it's basically just LBL in a different order.
on a related note: i have a friend who uses keyhole and beginner's LL. his PB is 22 seconds -- better than mine by 5 seconds. either he's really lucky, or he's some kind of cubing prodigy. i'm guessing it's the former, as i still average better than him.
Disagree with the let's-just-skip-keyhole-altogether theory.
The moment you get too comfortable with "normal" F2L that consists of 41 and only 41 cases, you tend to forget that F2L isn't so much about fingerspeed (provided you're not Yu Nakajima). It's about lookahead (yes, yes, yes, we all know this) and something that's ALWAYS neglected - even among the pros - move count. Need I mention the huge move count advantage of keyhole over "normal F2L" if you already have a corner or edge in place and an empty slot to spare?
I think people these days are so amazed by what pure fingerspeed can achieve that they forget about what was so important to all the "old school" cubers - double layer turns and empty slots and stuck pieces and mismatched pairs and loads of other miscellaneous tricks that make F2L much more move efficient than it is these days.
I'd honestly be more impressed by a fast time achieved with low move count (non-lucky cases of course) than one achieved with high tps.
The moment you get too comfortable with "normal" F2L that consists of 41 and only 41 cases, you tend to forget that F2L isn't so much about fingerspeed (provided you're not Yu Nakajima). It's about lookahead (yes, yes, yes, we all know this) and something that's ALWAYS neglected - even among the pros - move count. Need I mention the huge move count advantage of keyhole over "normal F2L" if you already have a corner or edge in place and an empty slot to spare?
I think people these days are so amazed by what pure fingerspeed can achieve that they forget about what was so important to all the "old school" cubers - double layer turns and empty slots and stuck pieces and mismatched pairs and loads of other miscellaneous tricks that make F2L much more move efficient than it is these days.
I'd honestly be more impressed by a fast time achieved with low move count (non-lucky cases of course) than one achieved with high tps.
Cride5
Premium Member
Certainly not the first time I've heard that here, and probably won't he the last :rolleyes:
ThatGuy
Veteran
jacob15728
Regular
Did anyone mention Me Myself and Pi's f2l tutorial? I like that one...
Well I am always more than happy to be pointed towards good guides on the subject as I think there's no such thing as knowing everything.
At the moment, I'm still practising intuitive F2L and I'm certainly getting better at it, but I do wonder if it's impacting on my speed just figuring the puzzle out for F2L rather than simply identifying patterns and repeating known algorithms?
Reason why I say that is because under LBL, I apart from the Cross and F1L corners, the rest is all just straight algorithms and once learned I was able to basically solve very consistently in speed just through recognition of patterns and responding with learned algorithms.
With F2L, I'm finding I constantly have to stop and actively think about the solution for each slot and it's probably chewing up a good 2/3 of my solve time, even with still employing beginners LBL to solve the last layer!
Anyway, I've ordered a couple new cubes from Cube4You today (A black 3x3x3 speedcube and a DIY Pink - love the retro look!) along with new tilesets from Cubesmith, so hopefully upping the ante on the components will also help me to progress as well.
Incidently (and this might be slightly off track), is there any sort of discussion, theory or surmation on the best format for your cube's colour scheme?
Reason why I ask is that my studio cube that I first got is US format (Yellow opposing White) but I recently got a Rubik's brand speedcube from Japan which follows the Asian format (Blue opposing White). Both are really nice, but the different colours schemes are really screwing with this beginner's head!
I'm finding the Asian format slightly more difficult because it tends to contrast less against the other colours over yellow did for me with my US original.
Is it just my imagination, or is there any theory to support what the best speed cube configuration is in regards to colour scheme?
Thanks for the feedback btw guys, I find I revisit this thread regularly because you're advice has been so helpful!
Whenever I get 'stuck' on how to progress on learning the cube, I love to read other people's real world experiences and watch some of the great clips online for what an experienced speed cuber can do to get me motivated.
Cheers!
At the moment, I'm still practising intuitive F2L and I'm certainly getting better at it, but I do wonder if it's impacting on my speed just figuring the puzzle out for F2L rather than simply identifying patterns and repeating known algorithms?
Reason why I say that is because under LBL, I apart from the Cross and F1L corners, the rest is all just straight algorithms and once learned I was able to basically solve very consistently in speed just through recognition of patterns and responding with learned algorithms.
With F2L, I'm finding I constantly have to stop and actively think about the solution for each slot and it's probably chewing up a good 2/3 of my solve time, even with still employing beginners LBL to solve the last layer!
Anyway, I've ordered a couple new cubes from Cube4You today (A black 3x3x3 speedcube and a DIY Pink - love the retro look!) along with new tilesets from Cubesmith, so hopefully upping the ante on the components will also help me to progress as well.
Incidently (and this might be slightly off track), is there any sort of discussion, theory or surmation on the best format for your cube's colour scheme?
Reason why I ask is that my studio cube that I first got is US format (Yellow opposing White) but I recently got a Rubik's brand speedcube from Japan which follows the Asian format (Blue opposing White). Both are really nice, but the different colours schemes are really screwing with this beginner's head!
I'm finding the Asian format slightly more difficult because it tends to contrast less against the other colours over yellow did for me with my US original.
Is it just my imagination, or is there any theory to support what the best speed cube configuration is in regards to colour scheme?
Thanks for the feedback btw guys, I find I revisit this thread regularly because you're advice has been so helpful!
Whenever I get 'stuck' on how to progress on learning the cube, I love to read other people's real world experiences and watch some of the great clips online for what an experienced speed cuber can do to get me motivated.
Cheers!
Last edited:
ThatGuy
Veteran
I'd say color scheme is preference. There's not really "the best" color scheme. Once you practice with a certain scheme you get more used to it.
Similar threads
