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Magnets Discussion and Help thread

DMCubing

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Joined
Feb 19, 2017
Messages
137
Location
Shreveport, LA
Just bought a valk 3 and 200 N50 magnets make my first magnetic cube

Have you tried it with these magnets? I've prototyped about eight or more Valks trying different magnets and placements. (Actually just finished making my 14th magnetic Valk day before yesterday!)

IMO probably the most used magnet in this cube is the N35 4x2 with the edge piece magnet placed at the foot/base of the left internal retaining post. For my personal liking, I kind of enjoy it with an N42 4x2. That one has a fairly strong magnetic pullforce in this cube but remains quick and smooth.
I tried N48s in an earlier prototype and found it to leave the cube a bit blocky and catchy feeling. Of course your mileage may vary.

Stronger mags like the N48 and higher are great in the GTS V1, Thunderclap V1, Aolong V2, and many other standard gauge, standard weight cubes. For lighter cubes like the Valk and Air, the N35 is usually quite adequate. But again, people may have personal preferences away from these findings too.
 

DMCubing

Member
Joined
Feb 19, 2017
Messages
137
Location
Shreveport, LA
What you can do is, once you have put a magnet in each corner, you then use a corner to do a set of edges before going back to corners. I have quite a good system doing the Thunderclaps where I go back and forth between them.



I have no idea how to avoid this. All of mine look disgusting inside. I do the whole thing in around half an hour.
I find the best way to avoid the chemical fogging of the cubie plastic is to have the ceiling fan running on high, then after the glue has set pretty well, separating the pieces. Superglue puts out invisible fumes that will fog plastic, a nice little breeze will prevent this.
 

Sn0W1337

Member
Joined
Feb 28, 2017
Messages
7
Have you tried it with these magnets? I've prototyped about eight or more Valks trying different magnets and placements. (Actually just finished making my 14th magnetic Valk day before yesterday!)

IMO probably the most used magnet in this cube is the N35 4x2 with the edge piece magnet placed at the foot/base of the left internal retaining post. For my personal liking, I kind of enjoy it with an N42 4x2. That one has a fairly strong magnetic pullforce in this cube but remains quick and smooth.
I tried N48s in an earlier prototype and found it to leave the cube a bit blocky and catchy feeling. Of course your mileage may vary.

Stronger mags like the N48 and higher are great in the GTS V1, Thunderclap V1, Aolong V2, and many other standard gauge, standard weight cubes. For lighter cubes like the Valk and Air, the N35 is usually quite adequate. But again, people may have personal preferences away from these findings too.
I have bever tryd makeing magnetic cubes before, xD
So i just pickd some upp and hoped thet they would be great/I played my bet on the N50s
Got any tips for beginners?
Love your videos, I thin they are really good and helpfull.
 

DMCubing

Member
Joined
Feb 19, 2017
Messages
137
Location
Shreveport, LA
I have bever tryd makeing magnetic cubes before, xD
So i just pickd some upp and hoped thet they would be great/I played my bet on the N50s
Got any tips for beginners?
Love your videos, I thin they are really good and helpfull.
Oh, thank you so much! I'm glad the videos are being helpful!

As for tips, I would say just take your time, don't be rushed, use a flat surface to lay the parts once they been glued, use a thicker glue because the thinner glue kind of runs sometimes and can create problems. Mark one end of your stick of magnets so you know you're removing them from the same end each time. I do this by placing a tiny piece of paper between the last two magnets on the opposite end of the stick from which I remove magnets from. You'll see this and all my videos.

When gluing, I tend to use what I call a "helper" magnet on the outside of the cubie piece to hold the freshly glued-in magnet in place. This is particularly important to do if you use a slower drying adhesive like two-part epoxy. The helper magnet holds the glued magnet in place as the glue dries.

When you match the edge piece half and corner piece third for gluing in the corner piece magnet, be sure the front surfaces of each part are even with each other as this will assure a precise magnetic alignment throughout the cube.

After the glue has set, but not fully cured, separate the pieces from each other so the superglue (if that's what you use) doesn't fog and discolor the cubie piece plastic. Having a little breeze from a fan helps prevent this too.

Let the pieces set long enough for the glue to harden before assembling.

After assembling the individual cubie pieces, build the cube back together without the core, using just the core. If there are any polarity issues with magnets not being glued in the correct direction, the cube won't hold itself together. If the magnets are correct, the magnetic pullforce alone, will hold the parts together in a cube shape without a core.

Finally, magcubes generally work better when you back off the tensions a little more than you'd usually have them adjusted in a standard, non-magnetic cube.

Good luck and let us know how things go!
 

Sn0W1337

Member
Joined
Feb 28, 2017
Messages
7
Oh, thank you so much! I'm glad the videos are being helpful!

As for tips, I would say just take your time, don't be rushed, use a flat surface to lay the parts once they been glued, use a thicker glue because the thinner glue kind of runs sometimes and can create problems. Mark one end of your stick of magnets so you know you're removing them from the same end each time. I do this by placing a tiny piece of paper between the last two magnets on the opposite end of the stick from which I remove magnets from. You'll see this and all my videos.

When gluing, I tend to use what I call a "helper" magnet on the outside of the cubie piece to hold the freshly glued-in magnet in place. This is particularly important to do if you use a slower drying adhesive like two-part epoxy. The helper magnet holds the glued magnet in place as the glue dries.

When you match the edge piece half and corner piece third for gluing in the corner piece magnet, be sure the front surfaces of each part are even with each other as this will assure a precise magnetic alignment throughout the cube.

After the glue has set, but not fully cured, separate the pieces from each other so the superglue (if that's what you use) doesn't fog and discolor the cubie piece plastic. Having a little breeze from a fan helps prevent this too.

Let the pieces set long enough for the glue to harden before assembling.

After assembling the individual cubie pieces, build the cube back together without the core, using just the core. If there are any polarity issues with magnets not being glued in the correct direction, the cube won't hold itself together. If the magnets are correct, the magnetic pullforce alone, will hold the parts together in a cube shape without a core.

Finally, magcubes generally work better when you back off the tensions a little more than you'd usually have them adjusted in a standard, non-magnetic cube.

Good luck and let us know how things go!
Thanks for all the tips, that's gonna be helpful!
Just two question, when you glue magnet on one third of a corner piece and a half of a center piece then when you put it together it should only be magnets on one side, or I don't know?
What magnets do you think is great for the gts v2 if you have go one correct?
 

DMCubing

Member
Joined
Feb 19, 2017
Messages
137
Location
Shreveport, LA
Thanks for all the tips, that's gonna be helpful!
Just two question, when you glue magnet on one third of a corner piece and a half of a center piece then when you put it together it should only be magnets on one side, or I don't know?
What magnets do you think is great for the gts v2 if you have go one correct?

The order for two new GTS2 cubes I received so far was screwed up because Moyu boxed V1 cubes instead of V2, but whenever I get them, i'll know what magnet to use after a little experimentation. Right now a couple of friends of mine have used N42 and N48. Both seem to like those magnets. I won't know for sure which I'll use until I've had a chance to measure the plastic, and get an overall feel for the cube. But I have a huge assortment of magnets so I will find something that works good with it, I am sure. Plus I have ordered five of them, two from the cubicle, and three elsewhere. Waiting for my replacements from the cubicle. My other two orders were not affected by the mistake made by the Moyu factory. So, I will have a few cubes to experiment on! Knowing what I usually do, I'll do three black cubes, one each in N38, N42 and N48. Then a stickerless in either 38 or 42 depending how those magnets feel in the black cubes.

I don't think I quite understand your question about gluing magnets on one side. There's only one single magnet glued in one half of an edge piece, and one magnet glued into one third of a corner piece. If you watch my latest tutorial, the one on making a warrior W, I think I show this fairly clearly, as well as in my other videos. But I may be misunderstanding your question, so I apologize for that.
 

DMCubing

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Feb 19, 2017
Messages
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Location
Shreveport, LA
I've used a lot of adhesives from Devcon two ton epoxy to the latest water activated clear, no foam formula Gorilla glue. The one I keep going back to is Gorilla brand impact tough formula superglue. It's awesome!!!!!!

Hello,

Is there a kind of super glue for magnets you recommend? Super Glue, Gorrila glue, I don't know what to use?
 

newtonbase

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CornerCutter

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A quick search suggests that it works on most types of plastics so I couldn't be sure that includes cubes. I also don't know what it's like when it comes out. If it's at all stringy then I'd avoid it. It's not something I'd try without knowing more about it.
Ok, it is like elmers glue when it dries. I'll do some tests. I don't want to ruin my Valk!:eek:

Thanks for the info.
 
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I'm considering magnetizing my Valk 3. I've checked out a video someone posted here of the process and that seems simple enough. My question is regarding the strength of magnets though. My friend rpotts has N42 Magnets he put in his Weiglong GTS, and it turned out really well. He has a Gans Air UM and it was surprising feeling the difference between those two cubes. I like the strong magnet feel in his GTS but am not so much a fan of the weak magnet feel in the Gans Air UM. What would be your guys' recommended magnet if I were to order from Guassboys so I can emulate the N42s in his GTS, or something just slightly weaker (but not so weak like the Gans Air UM)?
 

DMCubing

Member
Joined
Feb 19, 2017
Messages
137
Location
Shreveport, LA
I'm considering magnetizing my Valk 3. I've checked out a video someone posted here of the process and that seems simple enough. My question is regarding the strength of magnets though. My friend rpotts has N42 Magnets he put in his Weiglong GTS, and it turned out really well. He has a Gans Air UM and it was surprising feeling the difference between those two cubes. I like the strong magnet feel in his GTS but am not so much a fan of the weak magnet feel in the Gans Air UM. What would be your guys' recommended magnet if I were to order from Guassboys so I can emulate the N42s in his GTS, or something just slightly weaker (but not so weak like the Gans Air UM)?

I think I've used just about every possible magnet in the Valk. An N42 works great in this cube but is noticeably strong. If you have an aggressive solve style or like a strong magnetic feel, you'd probably like it. It's interesting that despite the extra magnetic pullforce, the cube still remains quite smooth during solves (unlike other cubes when you go to a stronger mag.)

I think most people prefer the N35. They work well with the lighter gauge plastic used in the Valk and provide a subtle but noticeable feel.

I've also made a couple with N38 which are kind of in the middle of these two grades but I tend to like the N42 and N35 cubes better.
 
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