Magnets Discussion and Help thread

Magnetized my old GTS using magnets from some magnetic pyra's I was sent a while ago that I haven't used, got an 8.07 avg100 with it pretty soon after setting it up some. Found the process surprisingly easy tbh (Probably because I wasn't trying to be super duper optimal like Chris Tran was but w/e), hopefully magnetizing one of my Valks won't be too much harder :)
 
Magnetized my old GTS using magnets from some magnetic pyra's I was sent a while ago that I haven't used, got an 8.07 avg100 with it pretty soon after setting it up some. Found the process surprisingly easy tbh (Probably because I wasn't trying to be super duper optimal like Chris Tran was but w/e), hopefully magnetizing one of my Valks won't be too much harder :)
I found it very hard to do right. I wanted the magnets over the joins and couldn't do it so have bought a new GTS to do instead.
 
Plenty of people have managed it and are happy with the results and you can always take them out if it doesn't go well but I'm not going to try it again. Worst thing that could happen is you end up with a regular Valk and some mucky magnets.
 
I've been playing with the Mars I did and I'm starting to like it. I've made it very loose and have put loads of Maru in it. It's really fast now and cuts well over 50 degrees and I'm getting no pops or corner twists. If it wasn't for the magnets I'm pretty sure it would be uncontrollable. I'll tighten it up a little to try and calm it down but it's not going to be my main, just an interesting alternative.
Also, this is the noisiest cube I've used by a long way. It makes a Thunderclap sound like a 1x1.
 
Would it be possible to put magnets in a sq1? I have a qiyi one that I want to modify somehow, does anyone have any idea how to do it?
I haven't actually figured out how to disassemble my sq1, but I think that magnets in the center layer would be the easiest and least helpful. Otherwise a few magnets in the middle layer, up to 4 at each corner, one in each edge and two in each corner for top and bottom layers, arranged radially . . . That seems like something that would be exceptionally helpful at about my stage of sq1 expertise, but a lot of work.
 
I've been playing with the Mars I did and I'm starting to like it. I've made it very loose and have put loads of Maru in it. It's really fast now and cuts well over 50 degrees and I'm getting no pops or corner twists. If it wasn't for the magnets I'm pretty sure it would be uncontrollable. I'll tighten it up a little to try and calm it down but it's not going to be my main, just an interesting alternative.
Also, this is the noisiest cube I've used by a long way. It makes a Thunderclap sound like a 1x1.

Lol, you havent heard the Mojue M3. That thing is SO LOUD.
 
I just finished magnetizing my valk 3. It took around 2 hours and IMO is isn't as hard as people make it out to be. I did everything right but Im not really liking the magnetic feel. Maybe I just have to get used it.
 
I just finished magnetizing my valk 3. It took around 2 hours and IMO is isn't as hard as people make it out to be. I did everything right but Im not really liking the magnetic feel. Maybe I just have to get used it.

What type of magnets did you use? I've used 4x2mm N35's in my YueXiao but they weren't strong enough. So I tried 5x2mm N35's in the Gans 356 V2 and they were good enough.

I'm not sure if I should use N35 or N50 in the Valk since I don't want to take any chance when I won't be able to reverse the change. Unless maybe I use a glue gun to stick the magnets..
 
I haven't actually figured out how to disassemble my sq1, but I think that magnets in the center layer would be the easiest and least helpful. Otherwise a few magnets in the middle layer, up to 4 at each corner, one in each edge and two in each corner for top and bottom layers, arranged radially . . . That seems like something that would be exceptionally helpful at about my stage of sq1 expertise, but a lot of work.
Thanks
 
What type of magnets did you use? I've used 4x2mm N35's in my YueXiao but they weren't strong enough. So I tried 5x2mm N35's in the Gans 356 V2 and they were good enough.

I'm not sure if I should use N35 or N50 in the Valk since I don't want to take any chance when I won't be able to reverse the change. Unless maybe I use a glue gun to stick the magnets..
I used N35. They are pretty good strength for the valk but the ideal is probably N42 if you can find them.
 
My Mars took a knock and one of the magnets came loose. It was a really annoying sound and tricky to track down. Fixed it now.

If you can't find the right strength of magnets you can always mix them up as suggested by @SenorJuan. It works.
 
It's likely that the plastic surfaces you're bonding your magnets to are slightly contaminated. Either from the mould tool, such as release compounds, or general industrial dirt, or from cube lube applied in the factory.
So a wipe with paper tissue / cotton buds wouldn't be a bad idea, helped by a bit of "breath steam", or if you have it, some suitable 'mild' solvent, like IPA ( Isopropyl alcohol / isopropanol / propan-2-ol ).
 
It's likely that the plastic surfaces you're bonding your magnets to are slightly contaminated. Either from the mould tool, such as release compounds, or general industrial dirt, or from cube lube applied in the factory.
So a wipe with paper tissue / cotton buds wouldn't be a bad idea, helped by a bit of "breath steam", or if you have it, some suitable 'mild' solvent, like IPA ( Isopropyl alcohol / isopropanol / propan-2-ol ).

Baby wipes might work as well? Also I reccomend Q-tips. They are kind of like pinpoint I guess

Also @SenorJuan can you please make your signature "breath steam" lol I found that so funny.
 
"cotton buds" = "Q-tips" for non-Yanks.
Everyone knows that huuuuurhing steam on things is the magic way to clean, be it your spectacles, your monitor screen, your bathroom mirror.

And just to add: Don't use strong solvents. Paint thinners, nail varnish remover, these will just melt the plastic of your puzzle.

And regarding prying off magnets when you've decided it's a fail:
NIB magnets are brittle, so don't be heavy-handed. They are actually nickel-plated, as the raw magnetic material rusts, due to the iron in it. The plating can tear off during rough treatment, exposing the dull grey innards. Don't be alarmed, the magnet is fine, though protecting it with paint/varnish/wax might help if you live in a humid climate.
 
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A quick question for those of you who have tried magnetizing your cube. Would you recommend N35 3x1 or 4x2 for Valk and GTS? It seems Cubicle isn't going to do them any time soon and I'm thinking about doing it on my own. I haven't had any experience with magnets before so I just want to know what the difference is. Thanks!
 
A quick question for those of you who have tried magnetizing your cube. Would you recommend N35 3x1 or 4x2 for Valk and GTS? It seems Cubicle isn't going to do them any time soon and I'm thinking about doing it on my own. I haven't had any experience with magnets before so I just want to know what the difference is. Thanks!

I believe N35's in the GTS wouldn't be as strong as the ones that the Cubicle uses. For the Valk, however, I'm not sure about what strength is suitable since I haven't magnetized one myself.
 
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