just got my best time 2:08

[Tommy]

Yes, I realize that this is considered very slow ... but my first solve EVER was a few days ago and I think I'm using a F2L method. I'm sure it's very beginner because I didn't quite grasp the other beginner "how-to" tutorials that I found so I just mixed two together that I could memorize and understand. Oh, it's very ugly and I need to perform the same 1 algor to place the last layer cubes like 8 times sometimes.

While this is my fastest time ever, I must say that I am inspired by all the people that can make solves faster than 30 seconds. I have read posts by other beginners that want "help" and seem to really want a magic bullet. A special algor that will allow them to make the entire solve 15% faster or more. I'm not really looking for that right now. I understand that whatever method I currently have I should practice that until I am 1-1.5 minutes and then possibly change to a more refined method (I'm leaning to Fridrich or Petrus).

What I would like is knowledge on getting a better cube. I see that "type D" seems to be popular and cubesmith stickers are claimed to be the best. I don't mind spending a few extra bucks to get a good cube because my toys'r'us unit is rather difficult to manuver. I have looked on cube4you for a "type D" and I don't seem to have luck. I think the popular opinion is for white. Can someone offer a direct link to a D on cube4you so I can add that to my cart? Do you recommend getting multiple cubes for playing around with (I was thinking 2 or three).

Also, are textured or non-textured stickers better? I would rather stay away from "X is good because you are a beginner and Y is for someone better" and just got with the better option right away.

Thanks for all your help! I'm excited about this sport and hope to improve my performance weekly.

 

[llamapuzzle]

Welcome to the forums!

Glad you've decided to get into cubing!
I think this is what your looking for.
Textured stickers and tiles are a matter of preference.
I would suggest learning Petrus or Roux, as they have both proven to be fast methods as well.
Petrus
Roux

 

[Crzyazn]

Ahh...let me try this in order

As a beginner, you most likely started out with Layer-by-Layer, referred to as LBL.

Good job on achieving a new personal best, and you don't need to be told to improve because you already know that.

Well at 2min, i don't believe that you really need a speedcube yet. "Cuber not the cube" is the problem in most cases. Unless the current cube you are using requires excessive force to turn (that can be changed by the way), investing in a top-grade cube is unnecessary. When you believe the ONLY thing holding you back is your bad cube, that's when you should make the change.

Textured vs. Non-textured is all about personal preference. Both options take some adjustment to get used to, but in the end, it's all about skill.

 

[fanwuq]

Well at 2min, i don't believe that you really need a speedcube yet. "Cuber not the cube" is the problem in most cases. Unless the current cube you are using requires excessive force to turn (that can be changed by the way), investing in a top-grade cube is unnecessary. When you believe the ONLY thing holding you back is your bad cube, that's when you should make the change.

Why not get a nice cube? The way you are saying it, no body needs a fast cube unless they are sub-15. A type D is actually cheaper than a Rubik's brand cube.

 

[Crzyazn]

I just want to prevent him from thinking that his shiny new piece of hardware will translate into instantly faster times.

 

[Tommy]

llamapuzzle: Thanks for the link! I was a little confused by some of the site information. I was looking forward to putting the cube together myself. Now that I understand what to look for I see that there is an "F" type cube. "http://cube4you.com/378_New-Type-White-3x3x3-DIY-Cube-(f).html" Do you think that's a good cube? I'm interested in getting a few cubes but would rather them be of the same type if possible. I will start looking into the Petrus more today even though the Fridrich method seems to be more similar to what I just learned. I do like the Petrus philosophy of not breaking the first layer.

Crzyazn: Thanks for the clarification. I solve the white cross, white corners, middle layer, orient the bottom to have it's face showing, orient the corners to their final position, then position the sides to their final position. It's a real confusing mess at times because my algors are "borrowed" from several methods. I agree that a "need" of a speedcube is really silly with a +2min time but my cube locks up, I can barely spin it, and ALL my stickers are popping up. I'd like to move on to something beyond my level for hardware so I don't have to concern myself with those frustrations. I'm positive that at this point it's the cuber and not my cube ... but my cube is in really poor shape and it takes away from the fun. I did some sanding and lubrication and it's better but it's still frustrating and jerky. I don't mind getting an "expensive" cube because even at -$20 it's a good deal for me. A type D/F/A/Z cube is not going to make me anything as it equates to performance or performance enhancing. I'm hoping that the workmanship (plus sticker from cubesmith) will not detract from the sport as I learn more and practice. So, please, if you don't mind ... I would deeply appreciate being directed to a high quality speed cube.

 

[llamapuzzle]

I have not heard good things about the "F" cubes, though if you would like a good cube that you can put together yourself, try this cube.
Btw, I'm not discouraging you from Fridrich, it's just nice to see sprouting diversity. Petrus is really not very popular, so if someone gets good at Petrus and people see the potential, they might learn it. I actually suggest you learn both, because Petrus takes at minimum 3 algs and Fridrich about 12 algs, so learning Petrus then moving on is not very hard.

I also use Fridrich, but now I'm eating my words so I'll shut up.

 

[Jai]

I have not heard good things about the "F" cubes

I'm guessing you haven't read the various reviews? The Type F core is horrible, but after you swap out the core for an A core, the cube is pretty decent.
But, a Type A cube would make a better first speedcube.

If you're looking to get a few cubes, Tommy, try a black Type A, a white Type A, and some Type Ds. You'll notice that there's difference in quality between the colors, because of the different plastics used. White feels softer, and a bit faster. It takes a bit of getting used to other colors, before you can be comfortable with any cube, so if you're going to get other colors, you're gonna want to spend a lot of time with the other colors.

I would rather stay away from "X is good because you are a beginner and Y is for someone better" and just got with the better option right away.

The logic behind the "X is good for now, [etc.]" is that at first, you can get a decent cube, and then when you feel you've "outgrown" that cube, and it's not good enough anymore, then you get a better cube. But, if you get an amazing cube right away, and later on, when you feel that cube's not good enough anymore, what would you do? You've already got the best cube.
I'm not saying you shouldn't get a good cube, I'm saying that you don't need the best one you can find out there. Type As and Ds are widely used, and pretty cheap, so you should go for those. If you want some cool colors, try Type C. Type B comes in transparent, gold, and silver, but don't move that well. Don't spend too much money on a cube right now, because unless you can use most or the full potential of a cube, you're just wasting money. Type A gives you the most bang for your buck, I'd say. You can just assemble it, lube it, and use it, without having to mod the cube in any way.
Whatever you end up ordering, while you're waiting for it to come (you'll find that Cube4You's shipping isn't that great, and is expensive),if you need a good cube now, you should go to Toys R Us or Target, or wherever official Rubik's cubes are sold where you live, and get a Rubik's brand store cube. Lube them, and they'll be almost as good as the DIYs.

 

[llamapuzzle]

I have not heard good things about the "F" cubes

I'm guessing you haven't read the various reviews? The Type F core is horrible, but after you swap out the core for an A core, the cube is pretty decent.
But, a Type A cube would make a better first speedcube.

If you're looking to get a few cubes, Tommy, try a black Type A, a white Type A, and some Type Ds. You'll notice that there's difference in quality between the colors, because of the different plastics used. White feels softer, and a bit faster. It takes a bit of getting used to other colors, before you can be comfortable with any cube, so if you're going to get other colors, you're gonna want to spend a lot of time with the other colors.

new or old type A core?

 

[Jai]

New Type A. I don't have any spare old Type A cores with me, so I had to buy and use a new Type A core. Though they're different, they're both still better than the Type F core.

 

[rjohnson_8ball]

Until you buy a new cube, I highly recommend getting some sets of good stickers from Cubesmith.com to replace your peeled, crappy, plastic covered paper stickers. That will make you feel good about cubing right away. After you get some new cubes, try textured tiles from cubesmith... they look fantastic and make cubing cool, but my preference is stickers for fast cubing. (I am slow but trying to improve.) I like cubes through PuzzleProz.com because the center caps stay on very nicely without requiring glue.

 

[Tommy]

Thanks for everyone's help. I just made my purchase from cubes4you and am getting a series of cubes just so I can put them together and have some fun. I think I ordered 7 in total with 5 additional core(a) for the build process. Because I just ordered I think what I read is that it's going to take like 3 weeks for them to arrive ... so I'm reviewing cubesmith tiles (textured/smooth) verses stickers. I want everything to basically be the same so I don't want to mix. It seems that the tiles are a better quality from what I read. I'll continue to read about this but if anyone has any opinions and why please reply. I'd like to make the purchase tonight so I can start my waiting process.

 

[Tommy]

OK. From my reading I believe that I'll try the smooth tiles.

 

[blgentry]

^ Make sure to get the plastic razor blade. I can't imagine removing the old stickers without it.

...and if your Rubik's brand cube is like mine was, you're in for a good bit of work to remove the left over glue after the stickers are off. I was too lazy to spend 30 or 45 minutes rubbing, or scraping, or whatever to get that glue off, so I bought a bottle of GooGone. You have to let it sit for 1 to 2 minutes, but after you do, it wipes off like it wasn't even there. Just my 2 cents.

Brian.

 

[PCwizCube]

You said that your Toys R Us cube doesn't work well after you lubricated it? Odd. What lubricant did you use? I would HIGHLY recommend using silicone spray lubricant, CRC brand preferred. It is a VERY good lubricant that will make you cube turn very fast. Out of a poll I made of which over 70 people voted, over 80% use silicone spray lubricant for their cubes. Here it is.

The Cubesmith stickers have only one layer, so no peeling. The will always have a solid color, but they can "chip" off. However, they are WAY better than store bought cube stickers.

Cubesmith tiles have a very high quality. Once you put them on your cube, they can last forever. Their adhesive is pretty strong, and no peeling and no chipping.

Yes, make sure you get the plastic razor blade. It is worth it (less than $1 LOL)

Yeah, when taking off stickers, their adhesive sticks on. Sand it off with steel wool, or just apply Goo Gone, wait a couple minutes, then wipe it off.

 

[Tommy]

Not only did I lube it (vassaline (sp)) but opened the unit and did some sanding like I saw on a youtube video. The cube used to be like a brick and now it just locks up it's hard to get it going and the stickers look like it went through an explosion of some kind. All of my new cubes should have no stickers on them. I have 7 new cubes coming to me and I purchased 8 sets of smooth tiles. The 8th set will go on my current unit because I don't want to give up on it quite yet. It's still a young puzzle.

I might have in the end made my cube "slower" but it's still locking up and hard to turn at times and I'm afraid to keep sanding because I've already created a few pits in the plastics.

CRC has many products for silicone spray from 808 to heavy duty. Which should I use ... as I presume I can get this from Home DePot or another hardware store. Also, I'm finding conflicting documentation on how to really properly apply my silicone once I get it. Can you point me to some "correct" documentation on how to best do this?

 

[ShadenSmith]

I use Heavy Duty. To apply I just pop off an edge and a corner and spray for a second, replace the pieces, and work it all in. Make sure to break in the cube before lubing though.

 

[PCwizCube]

You should use CRC Heavy Duty Silicone Spray. Yes, you can find it at most hardware stores. When you sanded the cube, what did you use to sand it? At the end you SHOULD use steel wool, that will make the pieces SUPER smooth. Yeah, new store bought cubes aren't that good. They will get better after several weeks of use.

 

[Tommy]

I sanded with P220 then with P400. Each surface that rubs had a small amount of vasaline applied. I did not use steel wool in my process but did not think I needed to rebuff each surface to a glossy finish. I see people doing that finger test where they hold the cube my two columns and spin the last column with one finger. That's not my cube at all. In my attempts to duplicate that with my current puzzle my finger jumps off like a rodeo star (small slight movement then an abrupt stop).

I've attempted to adjust the tension but since the unit is glued shut I applied a small drill to the white face in the hopes to reveal a phillips head. To my disappointment I found no such connection. It seems to be a very fixed attachment that does not allow for adjustment.

From looking at the silicone spray it seems that an application to the springs themselves would be one proper way to make the application. If possible, an application of graphite might also help considerably. Has anyone tried graphite? It's been known to increase the speeds of pinecars for many decades.

 

[immortalcube]

Rubik's brand store cubes don't have screws in the center pieces like the DIYs, they have rivets instead.

If possible, an application of graphite might also help considerably. Has anyone tried graphite? It's been known to increase the speeds of pinecars for many decades.

http://masterthecube.com/forums/index.php?topic=408.0