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[Help Thread] Hoya Discussion

He purposefully left it open for people to explore it for themselves. Now it's up to us to dip our toes in. I'm glad this thread was started so we have a designated place to discuss Hoya things.

For centers... does anyone use half blocks on the Next 2 Centers? Like... when building centers 3 and 4. I find it comes in handy especially because I don't have cross edges to still preserve by that point.
 
Hmm, that's interesting. I never tried it. I'd imagine it would be easier just do do one at a time though. That's what I do. If I'm trying to preserve something i usually put it around my cross color center once it is finished. I wouldn't try preserving anything you see before the first 2 centers though.
 
It'll be interesting to watch what is accomplished with Hoya in the future. But I will never use Hoya over Yau or Yau5, I've been convinced for some time that Hoya does not have more innate potential.
 
He still uses hoya, but He does his last 8 edges differently. If I am not mistaking, He does standard freeslice for the first 4, then puts 2 solved edges in the BR and BL slots, and does the type of edge pairing you mentioned until he gets to last 2 edges, which he does like normal. His cubingWord video explains it. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XNMt5CNxHO4
I can't believe I missed that video. That's great, looking forward to watch it.
I haven't thought about that L8E approach but it makes sense to do it like that, I think I'll adopt that.

Btw I didn't expect such a great response to this thread. I thought about naming it "Hoya thread" or something like this at first ;)
 
I can't believe I missed that video. That's great, looking forward to watch it.
I haven't thought about that L8E approach but it makes sense to do it like that, I think I'll adopt that.

Btw I didn't expect such a great response to this thread. I thought about naming it "Hoya thread" or something like this at first ;)
It has basically turned into a hoya thread, but I am more than okay with that haha.
 
It has basically turned into a hoya thread, but I am more than okay with that haha.

That's basically what I was hoping for :)

I'm practicing 5x5 right now the way you do and it's pretty good. Also it's fun to figure out little tricks, especially with 5x5. Let's say you don't have a cross edge solved in the back. When you're doing your first or second tredge for example, and you have a piece on D and the other 2 on U, sometimes you can easily pair those 2 up(r'U'r for example) and put them in together, which saves quite a bit of moves.

Hoya ftw!
 
Lol because the times of the fastest cubers have improved SO MUCH since they all switched to Yau.

Lol I know, I know. Some people did get a lot better times, it was kinda amazing, and must feel great for them. But for the most part, not much change happened. 'Twas a joke.

Hoya just needs to be explored more, thank GOD there is a thread. I may see about applying some edge pairing principles from it to 6x and 7x...
Thank you LoPrete for what you've introduced to us!
 
That's basically what I was hoping for :)

I'm practicing 5x5 right now the way you do and it's pretty good. Also it's fun to figure out little tricks, especially with 5x5. Let's say you don't have a cross edge solved in the back. When you're doing your first or second tredge for example, and you have a piece on D and the other 2 on U, sometimes you can easily pair those 2 up(r'U'r for example) and put them in together, which saves quite a bit of moves.

Hoya ftw!

That's kinda awesome.

There's is a little bit of application for the B layer, but pariing edges using it is tough while trying to keep the center preserved.

Say you have your first cross edge in the FD and it's sibling is in the BD. If the White sticker is on the B face, just a B2 will put it in place for the normal "easy" insertion. If the White sticker is oriented, though, you can do B R' or B' L (whichever is appropriate) to get the piece in position for the easy insertion.

Joey... did you say that on 4x4 you NEVER do the L setup move while fixing L2C? I find I have to do that about half the time.

And Ian: I think Aaron said he's tried is on 6x6 and 7x7, but it's so move inefficient compared to redux that it's not worth it at all.
 
That's kinda awesome.

There's is a little bit of application for the B layer, but pariing edges using it is tough while trying to keep the center preserved.

Say you have your first cross edge in the FD and it's sibling is in the BD. If the White sticker is on the B face, just a B2 will put it in place for the normal "easy" insertion. If the White sticker is oriented, though, you can do B R' or B' L (whichever is appropriate) to get the piece in position for the easy insertion.

Joey... did you say that on 4x4 you NEVER do the L setup move while fixing L2C? I find I have to do that about half the time.

And Ian: I think Aaron said he's tried is on 6x6 and 7x7, but it's so move inefficient compared to redux that it's not worth it at all.

Lol Chree you know me as Ian. Idk how this happened.

Well, I'm not thinking of doing the CROSS edges for 6x6 and 7x7, but I do think the concept of edge pairing from the front and having two freesliced ones in RB and LB so you don't have to look around as much could be REALLY good for those of us who have terribly long pauses looking for that one edge piece. (moi)
 
That's right. I don't think it is necessary. I do it weird. I grip the L layerand will do a quick 3r U 3r' move instead of doing the L. Or I will do a l' L move.

I got it, I understand. I used to flip edges with white facing up with U' F R' F', instead of Aaron's fancy little way.

You still move it out of the way thougghhh
 
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That's kinda awesome.

There's is a little bit of application for the B layer, but pariing edges using it is tough while trying to keep the center preserved.

Say you have your first cross edge in the FD and it's sibling is in the BD. If the White sticker is on the B face, just a B2 will put it in place for the normal "easy" insertion. If the White sticker is oriented, though, you can do B R' or B' L (whichever is appropriate) to get the piece in position for the easy insertion.

Joey... did you say that on 4x4 you NEVER do the L setup move while fixing L2C? I find I have to do that about half the time.

And Ian: I think Aaron said he's tried is on 6x6 and 7x7, but it's so move inefficient compared to redux that it's not worth it at all.

Oh stupid me. Of course you're gonna mess up the B center by doing something like r'U'r. Sorry, was kinda in a hurry and didn't think too much about it to realize that when I actually did that, I messed up my center :D
BUT you could use that kind of technique when you want to join to edge pieces together in UB. So instead of inserting 2 pieces one after another, you pair them up with something like 3R U 3R' and put them in together.
Set up: 3r U 3r' U 3r U' 3r'. Very fast to solve them both :)
 
Not sure if this bump is allowed, according to the rules it should be I guess.

I just did 3 4x4 solves, and they were all around the 1:30 mark, which for me is quite good. I was around 1:50 with yau before, so hoya for me is at least as fast if not faster. The solves felt rather slow and all of them had parity(2 PLL, 1 OLL I think).
Right now I'm also experimenting with the cross edges, searching more efficient ways. There's little tricks here and there, for example pairing 2 pieces up using the 2 dedge flipping thing. Also sometimes when a cross edge piece is misoriented on D, it pairs up nicely on U if the piece on U is also in the same orientation.
 
Lol Chree you know me as Ian. Idk how this happened.

Well, I'm not thinking of doing the CROSS edges for 6x6 and 7x7, but I do think the concept of edge pairing from the front and having two freesliced ones in RB and LB so you don't have to look around as much could be REALLY good for those of us who have terribly long pauses looking for that one edge piece. (moi)
I still think redux would be a better option. When I do 6x6 and 7x7, I put my first 4 edges, whatever they may be, on the bottom, so I dont have to do any Z2's. from that, you can finish the other 4 edges, and then put 1 in BR and 1 in BL and do that style of edge pairing for the last 4 if you really wish.
 
Not sure if this bump is allowed, according to the rules it should be I guess.

I just did 3 4x4 solves, and they were all around the 1:30 mark, which for me is quite good. I was around 1:50 with yau before, so hoya for me is at least as fast if not faster. The solves felt rather slow and all of them had parity(2 PLL, 1 OLL I think).
Right now I'm also experimenting with the cross edges, searching more efficient ways. There's little tricks here and there, for example pairing 2 pieces up using the 2 dedge flipping thing. Also sometimes when a cross edge piece is misoriented on D, it pairs up nicely on U if the piece on U is also in the same orientation.

I've been playing around with a lot of different cases and really analyzing them. I'm probably gonna make a video with what I've found when I get home. Some are really great, and others not so much. But it'll basically just be a more indepth look at the basics, plus algs for certain cases.
 
I've been playing around with a lot of different cases and really analyzing them. I'm probably gonna make a video with what I've found when I get home. Some are really great, and others not so much. But it'll basically just be a more indepth look at the basics, plus algs for certain cases.

One of the nicest things that used to happen "luckily" to me is when I accidentally paired up two edges at once, so all I needed to do was insert the one I accidentally paired in U. Now, I've begun to influence it.
My averages dropped from 1:35-1:45 to 1:15-1:20 so Hoya works better for me
 
I've been playing around with a lot of different cases and really analyzing them. I'm probably gonna make a video with what I've found when I get home. Some are really great, and others not so much. But it'll basically just be a more indepth look at the basics, plus algs for certain cases.
Is that video still in planning/already made? Would be interesting to watch!
 
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