[Help Thread] Clock Discussion

[Michael Womack]

so your 8.xx was probably like 3 moves ok

It was not more then that.

 

[Username]

It was not more then that.

So not more than 3? What was the scramble?

 

[Michael Womack]

So not more than 3? What was the scramble?

I don't remember it was like 1.5 years ago and I just recently been doing clock solves with generated scrambles.

When scrambleing a Clock with generated scrambles dose it madder if the Dark blue side is facing you or should it be the Light blue side?

 

[DuffyEdge]

I don't remember it was like 1.5 years ago and I just recently been doing clock solves with generated scrambles.

When scrambleing a Clock with generated scrambles dose it madder if the Dark blue side is facing you or should it be the Light blue side?

It doesn't matter how you hold it

 

[Ronxu]

I don't remember it was like 1.5 years ago and I just recently been doing clock solves with generated scrambles.

When scrambleing a Clock with generated scrambles dose it madder if the Dark blue side is facing you or should it be the Light blue side?

u have 2 hold it sideways if ur using a lango clock

 

[Michael Womack]

u have 2 hold it sideways if ur using a lango clock

What do you mean?

It doesn't matter how you hold it

Thanks for that answer.

 

[hkpnkp]

Where to buy a Rubik's Clock in India?

i am looking for a rubik's clock in india. does anyone in india know about any shop ? and does any one have a working one for sale ?

 

[AvGalen]

i am looking for a rubik's clock in india. does anyone in india know about any shop ? and does any one have a working one for sale ?

Clocks are really difficult to get. You can normally only get them on eBay or on "Chinese websites"

 

[Perff]

i am looking for a rubik's clock in india. does anyone in india know about any shop ? and does any one have a working one for sale ?

I bought mine (got a few) from lightake.com ( http://lightake.com/detail.do/sku.Magic_Clock_Cube_Puzzle_-30626 ).
I think they are ok - they need to be lubed, and used a bit to be real good. The pins have a tendency to become very loose, but you can mod them so they become quite good again.
Right now I have two of those I use - an old one which is very used, and a new one I just recently moded - I can do sub 10 on both no problem.

 

[Mollerz]

I bought mine (got a few) from lightake.com ( http://lightake.com/detail.do/sku.Magic_Clock_Cube_Puzzle_-30626 ).
I think they are ok - they need to be lubed, and used a bit to be real good. The pins have a tendency to become very loose, but you can mod them so they become quite good again.
Right now I have two of those I use - an old one which is very used, and a new one I just recently moded - I can do sub 10 on both no problem.

Would you mind explaining how to mod the chinese clocks to tighten the pins?

 

[Perff]

Would you mind explaining how to mod the chinese clocks to tighten the pins?

Sure - if I can.
Well, the problem is that on the pins, there are two small metal pieces one on each side of the pin, which goes through a small hole in the plastic. Theese metal pins are responsible for creating the resistance so that the pin itself dosn't fall down on itself.
When you get your chinese clock, this is normally ok, but over time, the pins get very loose for some reason = the metal pins are now too small for the holes they go through (or the holes to big?) = very little resistance = the pins drop down on their own.
To fix this I though of a way to increase the size (diameter) of the metalpins by very little, simply by diping them in some hobby-glue, and and roll them on some paper towel to get most of the glue off again. Then let them dry for a few minutes, and then insert them back in the holes in the pin and work them a few times back and forward to make sure they still fit, and don't get stock.

Make any sense? Anyway, that is how I moded mine, and the pins works quite nice I think.

 

[Mollerz]

Sure - if I can.
Well, the problem is that on the pins, there are two small metal pieces one on each side of the pin, which goes through a small hole in the plastic. Theese metal pins are responsible for creating the resistance so that the pin itself dosn't fall down on itself.
When you get your chinese clock, this is normally ok, but over time, the pins get very loose for some reason = the metal pins are now too small for the holes they go through (or the holes to big?) = very little resistance = the pins drop down on their own.
To fix this I though of a way to increase the size (diameter) of the metalpins by very little, simply by diping them in some hobby-glue, and and roll them on some paper towel to get most of the glue off again. Then let them dry for a few minutes, and then insert them back in the holes in the pin and work them a few times back and forward to make sure they still fit, and don't get stock.

Make any sense? Anyway, that is how I moded mine, and the pins works quite nice I think.

Ah that makes sense, I haven't actually taken mine apart yet so I was just wondering how it worked. Thanks muchly!

 

[Sebastien]

I used a different approach to mod my Clock's Pins before exchanging them with Rubik's Pins:

I just took the metalpins and curved them just a tiny bit. That actually worked very well.

 

[Yuxuibbs]

Are the internals of the lingao and rubik's brand clocks the same? I kind of want to take my lingao apart and lube it from the inside.

 

[Michael Womack]

Are the internals of the lingao and rubik's brand clocks the same? I kind of want to take my lingao apart and lube it from the inside.

Yes it is All Clock puzzles are the same inside and out.

 

[MaikeruKonare]

I average 15 on clock but my clocks pins are broken and at both competitions I've went to I average DNF at because of it. ):

 

[bobthegiraffemonkey]

Hi guys, I don't really clock but I was discussing noflip with Mollerz recently. He didn't really seem keen on my ideas, so I'm posting here in case anyone else finds it interesting.

Noflip + solve back cross during front face pin positions: you memo 5 numbers (M1, ..., M5) during inspection based on the back cross faces, which I can do comfortably, then execute these in the correct place in the usual pin positions for the front face to solve the back cross. These are performed on down pins, and the usual turns are performed on the up pins. For the subtractions x-y, I look at y and see what I have to add to get to x, rather than performing a normal subtraction calculation.

A = right - top
B = left - bottom

M1 = A+B
M2 = -B

M3 = middle - right
M4 = middle - bottom

M5 = top - M4

DD U	DU S	UD U	UU A	UU L	UU C	UD R	DU A	UU P
UD M5	DD 	DD 	DD M1	DU M2	UD M3	UU 	UU M4	UU

Or whatever order you want to do corners in, I'm not sure what people would prefer. Does anyone think this has potential?

 

[Kit Clement]

I think the main part you have to consider is that the loss of the visual component cannot slow you down more than a flip. Timing myself on an average of 5 for flips, I got:

x2: 0.39
y2: 0.19
Corner: 0.27

And I think that not looking at your first cross is going to slow you down no matter what, even if practiced. To have your noflip first side be within about 0.3 seconds of what you would get with a flip would take a significant amount of practice, and I don't think it would be easy at all just to break even on that. Also, this doesn't take into account the chance of a DNF going up with this method. I'm sure it could be better than a flip, but I think it would take so much practice that in the end, it's just not worth it. But I'm sure someone in the future will prove me wrong, just like cubing always does.

 

[TeddyKGB]

But I'm sure someone in the future will prove me wrong

Challenge accepted...

 

[Perff]

Actually I have been trying a similar method myself over the last year or so on and off.
The problems I have encountered was:
1. Memorising the 5 numbers (you also need to do a little math to get the numbers) within the timeframe of <15sec without stress. Guess you can pratice it so it won't be a problem, but I never got there.
2. Getting the right flow in the solve. When you solve the side of the clock you are looking at, you do it without thinking. The eyes just see how clocks are turned, and the fingers then know what to do. But using this method, you sometimes have to do some turns from what you have memorised, and that breaks my flow.
3. Lucky cases are harder to utilize. Even if you have a skip on the front side, you probably need to go through the pin-settings anyway to do the back - also a flow-problem?

Pro's for the method: You only have to go through 9 pin-settings at most vs. 14 doing it the standard way, and no flip.

I must admit that I havn't practices it for real (like doing nothing else for a months or something), but I never got close to the times I can get doing it oldstyle. (12-15sec vs. 8-10).
But I bet someone can, so I'm waiting.