I received this today, like all others who ordered a V-Cube. They have lowered the shipping prices. So for people who haven't ordered yet, you can get them a little cheaper.
V-CUBE Newsletter 01/08/08
- Thread starter pjk
- Start date
Henxu
Regular
If they did this first, the people would buy more from they
But It was ok too I like 5x5 v-cube
Oh, Pjk, i hope you can answer me in my ''anyone of the usa can help us''
Thanks,
But It was ok too I like 5x5 v-cube
Oh, Pjk, i hope you can answer me in my ''anyone of the usa can help us''
Thanks,
Dene
Premium Member
I bet it wouldn't be cheaper for me. I got the e-mail twice lol >.<
36duong
Regular
I found that hard to read, all the V-Cube TM
were in bold.
were in bold.
ThePizzaGuy92
Veteran
did the 7x7 go down one euro? the shipping is still too much for me to want to buy a v-cube.. but i might get a v-cube 5 within the month... idk
Harris Chan
Veteran
So this is a better time to buy V cubes eh? But then again, the prices will probably drop even more by the time the official release comes in September, and better packaging. It's just like computers: the longer you wait, the better the price. But you can't wait forever either.
I really do need another 5x5, the ES is getting too loose.
I really do need another 5x5, the ES is getting too loose.
Wow. I couldn't agree more.
Btw, those with V-Cube 5s, how does it compare to Eastsheen and Rubik's brand?
Leviticus
Veteran
It pwns them big time. I've only kept improving on mine, with a 1.42.05 single and 1.57.65 average of 5
AvGalen
Premium Member
V-Cube5 seems to be really good, but I like my Rubiks 5x5x5 more for now.
V-Cube6 sucks when you buy it and although some people say they get better, mine keeps popping and locking up (middle turns) multiple times per solve ruining every single solve. I can't seem to get sub 6 because I waste about a minute fixing the puzzle
V-Cube7 is good when you buy it and then becomes great really soon. But mine has starting popping already, just when I was about to get sub 8 minutes.
I would recommend buying a 5 and 7, but I hope everyone stops buying 6x6x6 so V-Cube realizes they have to fix the mechanism
V-Cube6 sucks when you buy it and although some people say they get better, mine keeps popping and locking up (middle turns) multiple times per solve ruining every single solve. I can't seem to get sub 6 because I waste about a minute fixing the puzzle
V-Cube7 is good when you buy it and then becomes great really soon. But mine has starting popping already, just when I was about to get sub 8 minutes.
I would recommend buying a 5 and 7, but I hope everyone stops buying 6x6x6 so V-Cube realizes they have to fix the mechanism
Dene
Premium Member
V5 is ultimate (my average dropped from 3ish seconds to sub 2:15 in 2 weeks).
V6 for me is the same as Mr. van Galen. Except I think my pops are more drastic. I spend on average 2 minutes finding the pieces that go flying across the room. (Lube didn't help).
V7 is nice, but mine is still stiff (I haven't used it enough) and I could do with lubing it. It does pop but that is only if I'm not being careful.
Mr Cohen has the secret, let's all get him to break in our cubes then send them back in sub4/sub6 condition
V6 for me is the same as Mr. van Galen. Except I think my pops are more drastic. I spend on average 2 minutes finding the pieces that go flying across the room. (Lube didn't help).
V7 is nice, but mine is still stiff (I haven't used it enough) and I could do with lubing it. It does pop but that is only if I'm not being careful.
Mr Cohen has the secret, let's all get him to break in our cubes then send them back in sub4/sub6 condition
Dene
Premium Member
Sorry for the double post but I thought I'd put this separate.
This is my theory on why the V6 pops a lot. If you have taken it apart (I did one time when I had a big pop and figured I may as well take a look) you will be aware of the general internal structure of the V6.
There is the main core, and then those pieces (I'll call them X-pieces for simplicity) that sit between the right angles of the core.
Those X-pieces are held in place by jamming the two little pieces between the X-piece and the core (I'll call these peices the Y-piece (for the smaller ones) and the Z-piece (for the bigger ones)).
Now I noticed that some of the screws in the core weren't in perfectly straight but I didn't seem to be able to unscrew them (they just turned in the spot).
When putting the cube back together I noticed that while some of the Y- and Z-pieces sat in snugly, some of them were loose and prone to slipping out.
Thus, I think that maybe it was because of the slightly unstraight screws that some of these were loose. Hence I think these are also the reason for the popping.
It would be good if someone experimental went ahead and checked to see if their screws aren't in straight, and to try straightening them and seeing if it stops the cube from popping (at the same time they could give their cube a good lube ).
This may not make any sense to someone who hasn't taken a look at the internal structure of the cube, thus you can be the first person to take it apart and experiment (and at the same time make sense of what I'm trying to say).
This is my theory on why the V6 pops a lot. If you have taken it apart (I did one time when I had a big pop and figured I may as well take a look) you will be aware of the general internal structure of the V6.
There is the main core, and then those pieces (I'll call them X-pieces for simplicity) that sit between the right angles of the core.
Those X-pieces are held in place by jamming the two little pieces between the X-piece and the core (I'll call these peices the Y-piece (for the smaller ones) and the Z-piece (for the bigger ones)).
Now I noticed that some of the screws in the core weren't in perfectly straight but I didn't seem to be able to unscrew them (they just turned in the spot).
When putting the cube back together I noticed that while some of the Y- and Z-pieces sat in snugly, some of them were loose and prone to slipping out.
Thus, I think that maybe it was because of the slightly unstraight screws that some of these were loose. Hence I think these are also the reason for the popping.
It would be good if someone experimental went ahead and checked to see if their screws aren't in straight, and to try straightening them and seeing if it stops the cube from popping (at the same time they could give their cube a good lube
).This may not make any sense to someone who hasn't taken a look at the internal structure of the cube, thus you can be the first person to take it apart and experiment (and at the same time make sense of what I'm trying to say).
AvGalen
Premium Member
I agree with Dene that those pieces are the main reasons for the popping (can indeed be very explosive). However, Eastsheen 4x4x4 have a similar structure for those pieces and those simply don't pop.
And popping is not the only problem of the 6x6x6. If you do a "mid-turn" (like 3U) you hear a click when you do a "good" move. Sometimes you don't hear the click, but everything looks perfectly aligned. At those moments you cannot do other "mid-turns" (like 3R and 3F) untill you redo the first "mid-turn" and make it click. This really annoyes me and disturbs a smooth solve with good look-ahead. Normally my hands focus on the moves I am performing and my eyes/mind focus on the moves I am going to perform next. With this "mid-turn" problem my eyes/mind have to go 2 steps back to perform the moves I have already performed.
P.S. I will try the "straighten core-screws" and lube technique when I find time, but I have already seen the inside of both my 6x6x6's to many times
And popping is not the only problem of the 6x6x6. If you do a "mid-turn" (like 3U) you hear a click when you do a "good" move. Sometimes you don't hear the click, but everything looks perfectly aligned. At those moments you cannot do other "mid-turns" (like 3R and 3F) untill you redo the first "mid-turn" and make it click. This really annoyes me and disturbs a smooth solve with good look-ahead. Normally my hands focus on the moves I am performing and my eyes/mind focus on the moves I am going to perform next. With this "mid-turn" problem my eyes/mind have to go 2 steps back to perform the moves I have already performed.
P.S. I will try the "straighten core-screws" and lube technique when I find time, but I have already seen the inside of both my 6x6x6's to many times
Dene
Premium Member
Thanks Mr. van Galen! I will try it too when I find some time (I just found out my late lecture is cancelled today (sick lecturer) so I might have time!)
And I completely know what you mean about the clicking thing. I have noe idea what the cause of it is, but the happens to me too. Apparently my lookahead isn't very good though, because for me I just quickly fix it and it has very little effect >.< (or maybe it's having more effect than I thought?)
And I completely know what you mean about the clicking thing. I have noe idea what the cause of it is, but the happens to me too. Apparently my lookahead isn't very good though, because for me I just quickly fix it and it has very little effect >.< (or maybe it's having more effect than I thought?)
Stephen York
Member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2008
- Messages
- 1
If you look at the product page (Others), the diagram of the 6x6x6 has the curved faces like the 7 and above and it's called the 6b. Lets hope they manufacture them soon.
The standard 6x6x6 SUCKS!!!
The standard 6x6x6 SUCKS!!!
Dene
Premium Member
Well I've had a look again, and I have no idea how to re-align the screws.
However I can confirm my theory that it is the unstraight screws that are causing the Y- and Z-pieces to be loose. I can't confirm whether this is causing the pops or not.
As for the "clicking into place" problem, I have no idea what causes it (or how to fix it).
Any help on the screws?
However I can confirm my theory that it is the unstraight screws that are causing the Y- and Z-pieces to be loose. I can't confirm whether this is causing the pops or not.
As for the "clicking into place" problem, I have no idea what causes it (or how to fix it).
Any help on the screws?
