Cride5
Premium Member
If you're currently doing EO followed by Line, you may find you're ending up with some horrible Line cases. It can actually take up to 4 extra moves to complete the line after EO.
I've been playing with an idea to make integrating the line-part into EO easier, so here goes...
We want to create a line in the D face. No matter how the line is created, it eventually boils down to the following:
Goal 1: Line in DF/DB position
Goal 2: Line in DR/DL position followed by D/D' turn - less desirable since it takes 1 extra move
With these two goals in mind we may rank possible line edge positions according to their distance in moves from either of the goal states (using HTM):
Distance from goal state 1 (group 1):
0: DF, DB (oriented)
1: UF, UB, DR, DL (oriented)
1: RF, LF, RB, LB (disoriented)
Distance from goal state 2 (group 2):
0: DL, DR (oriented)
1: FL BL, FR, BR, UL, UR, DF, DB (oriented)
2: FU, FD, BU, BD (disoriented)
Placing both line edges into either group 1 or group 2 will result in a more efficient line unless they're positioned in such a way that moving one into line disturbs the other. Use the positions in italics with caution for this reason.
It turns out that if one edge ends up an group 1, while the other ends up in group 2 it always leads to a difficult line (2+ moves, most cases 3+).
An efficient line can be therefore be achieved by trying to move both edge pieces into group 1 during edge orientation. If this requires too many setup moves, aim for group 2, but try to avoid ending up with 1 line edge in each group.
Hope this made sense
I've been playing with an idea to make integrating the line-part into EO easier, so here goes...
We want to create a line in the D face. No matter how the line is created, it eventually boils down to the following:
Goal 1: Line in DF/DB position
Goal 2: Line in DR/DL position followed by D/D' turn - less desirable since it takes 1 extra move
With these two goals in mind we may rank possible line edge positions according to their distance in moves from either of the goal states (using HTM):
Distance from goal state 1 (group 1):
0: DF, DB (oriented)
1: UF, UB, DR, DL (oriented)
1: RF, LF, RB, LB (disoriented)
Distance from goal state 2 (group 2):
0: DL, DR (oriented)
1: FL BL, FR, BR, UL, UR, DF, DB (oriented)
2: FU, FD, BU, BD (disoriented)
Placing both line edges into either group 1 or group 2 will result in a more efficient line unless they're positioned in such a way that moving one into line disturbs the other. Use the positions in italics with caution for this reason.
It turns out that if one edge ends up an group 1, while the other ends up in group 2 it always leads to a difficult line (2+ moves, most cases 3+).
An efficient line can be therefore be achieved by trying to move both edge pieces into group 1 during edge orientation. If this requires too many setup moves, aim for group 2, but try to avoid ending up with 1 line edge in each group.
Hope this made sense