Jason Green
Veteran
Do you use Tapatalk? Just click the mountains next to the camera.I can never figure out how to add a picture from my phone on this forum... wanted to post my new 3x3 PB. 12.76 full step
-
Welcome to SpeedSolving.com — the world’s largest puzzle community!
You’re currently browsing as a guest, which means you have limited access to discussions, resources, member profiles, and community features.
Join 50,000+ cubers and puzzle enthusiasts from around the world to ask questions, share solves, improve faster, and be part of the community.
Registration is free, fast, and easy — create your account today.
Already a member? Log in here to hide this message and start participating.
Older cubers discussions
- Thread starter MarcelP
- Start date
kbrune
Veteran
I don't have tapatalk. when I click on the mountain it says something like "add media" and nothing happens.
Perhaps i'll have to dload that app.
Perhaps i'll have to dload that app.
newtonbase
Premium Member
To flip edges UF and UB - M' U' M' U' M' U' M' U2 M' U' M' U' M' U' M'I don't have a good resource on those, so I'll take what you have to offer, or I was going to have to figure it out from COLL
To flip edges UR and DF (buffer) ((M' U)3 M U)2 or switch U to U' for UL and DF (M' U M' U M' U M U M' U M' U M' U M U)
To flip all top edges M' U' M' U' M' U' M' U M' U' M' U' M' U' M' U
To twist UFL clockwise and UBL anticlockwise - 2x sexy move (R U R' U'), L', 2x reverse sexy move (U R U' R'), L. To twist them both the other way then the L moves come first so L', 2x sexy, L, 2x reverse sexy. If the piece is in DFL instead of UFL use L2 instead of the L and L' moves.
Use setups to get your pieces in the right positions first and don't forget to undo them. You can get away with just learning the first or second edge flip to begin with.
kbrune
Veteran
On the road to Montreal Open!
Just finished tossing a Rubiks brand cubes in the fires of mordor. Hopefully the PB gods will look favorably upon me!
Just finished tossing a Rubiks brand cubes in the fires of mordor. Hopefully the PB gods will look favorably upon me!
newtonbase
Premium Member
Good luck.
Thanks! I don't see needing flipping all the top edges with M2... The corner twist I can see needing....Sooner over later. But I'll probably dual shoot them my first few times, just to get going.
I'm not great at learning algs. The only reason I've been able to learn M2/OP so fast is that it is so intuitive, in general.
In fact, I know ALMOST full OH PLL. But not 2H. (Need to learn Na/Nb... but they are so uncommon, I just do them as 2xJ's for now...)
I use OH PLL, 2H... So I actually had to learn the 2H Y-perm, for OP Corners
. I can understand when they talk about one handed amensia... Except, I get it backwards .
mafergut
Legend
Bemis
Regular
Getting comfortable with look ahead during F2L is starting to show on my times. This is such an enjoyable hobby. The more I learn, the better it gets.
Logiqx
Veteran
COLL case recognition is pretty easy but my experience is that alg recall takes a while to improve, just as it did for things like OLL. If you don't know how CxLL case recognition works then here are a couple of tips. You start by recognising the OCLL then you use the non-U colour stickers to determine the permutation using matching/opposite/adjacent rules. The H / Pi cases have 4 stickers facing upwards and the colour combinations are pretty unique. The U / L / T cases have two non-U stickers facing upwards and they'll either be matching, opposite or adjacent colours. There are exactly 2 of each so the colours on top narrow it down to one of 2 CxLL cases and you then use 1 or 2 additional corner stickers to identify the exact case.
e.g. The L case OCLL with adjacent colours on top is either the no-swap case (2-gen / triple sune) or the diagonal swap (fat OLL) and you can determine which one by looking at a side sticker of an oriented corner. After a while you'll automatically know which one of the 2 CxLL cases it might be during OCLL recognition and then it's just a case of determining the precise case. This is akin to OLL recognition where you probably look at the top then look at the side. e.g. say you see a square on top you know it's going to be either the fat-sune or the fat-anti-sune but you don't know which until you look at side stickers. The only difference with CxLL recognition is that the second step uses colour matching rules.
Long story cut short you can work out the recognition system yourself which is kinda fun.
So close!
newtonbase
Premium Member
Yes, the 4 edges one isn't that useful but it's easy so I include for completeness. I saw one recently that does the buffer and UB but I don't appear to have made a note of it.
Yes, the 4 edges one isn't that useful but it's easy so I include for completeness. I saw one recently that does the buffer and UB but I don't appear to have made a note of it.
My guess is any Roux solver could tell us
.
newtonbase
Premium Member
Got it. Flip DF and UBMy guess is any Roux solver could tell us
U M' U M' U M' U M U M' U M' U M' U M - simple.
Also, if you swap the last move for M' it works for the BU target in M2. which may interest you @phreaker
newtonbase
Premium Member
3x3 PB average for @kbrune today. Well done!
mark49152
Premium Member
I've used it a couple of times with setups when I've had 3 flipped edges (plus buffer). I'm sure it didn't make the solves faster but it felt cool
newtonbase
Premium Member
The issue I have is that there's too big a risk of making a mistake undoing that many setups. I'd rather take 5s more and be safe doing 2 at a time. Unless they are all on top already of course!I've used it a couple of times with setups when I've had 3 flipped edges (plus buffer). I'm sure it didn't make the solves faster but it felt cool
pglewis
Veteran
For BU: I found the alg in the description of Noah's execution vid very intuitive so it saved me some memorizing. Basically an un-setup for RD (Speffz O), standard swap for DR (V), then the setup for RD (O). Assuming you haven't already got it down by now and made a full blind success... you're rapidly closing in. Good to have someone else close to the same place in the learning curve.
Also PBs for @teacher77 and @megagoune as their first comps, IIRC. Looks like an excellent debut for both of them.
Last edited:
I don't expect a BLD success for a few days... at least. More work to do on M2... and practice in general. Then more on memo... So I've got work to do.
Plus I got a new cube in (Gans 356 AIR UM) to distract me a bit and make me practice OH
"First world cubing problems."
pipkiksass
Veteran
I got a new cube in (Gans 356 AIR UM) to distract me a bit and make me practice OH
Reviews please!!! ;-)
Just invested in a spare Valk, magnets and glue in the post, but I've only heard excellent things about this cube... from sub-10 cubers who previously used the 356 ultimate. Which, in my eyes, is something of a modest compliment at best - i.e. Putting magnets in my existing main make it more mainworthy.
*re-reads what he's just written and realises this is exactly what he himself is doing*
*rues the day when the :fp emoticon was removed from Speedsolving.com due to excess troll abuse*
But seriously, I genuinely want to hear honest reviews of magnetic cubes from non-teenage-youcubers who aren't the type to jump on bandwagons, and aren't just "first impressions" or "unboxings", but rather "I've been using this cube, as opposed to its non-magnetic predecessor, for n weeks, and after x solves I believe it has had a positive effect/no effect/purely placebo/go out and spend $50 on this cube RIGHT NOW!
But without the shouting, perhaps?
All this blind talk is seriously tempting me to join the dark side!!!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
mark49152
Premium Member
They were easy ones. I can't remember exactly, but L F2 setup or something like that. No I wouldn't try to set up all four either
I'll review the Gans when I have enough solves, and used it enough to have a "good" opinion on it. TBH, I can tell I'm not used to it yet... so I don't feel I can give it a proper review... it takes time to adjust to a new cube, set it up... etc. And I've done none of those things.
Instead: Here's a Valk M review
.I've been using a Valk M for about a month now. Using "ring" magnets I bought for another project that totally flopped.
They work out to be ~N42/N44 strength, I heard the normal N50s I had around would be a bit "much", according to many.
That's the cube I use for everything.
Lube: Traxxas 50k on the core, Traxxas 10k on the pieces, but JUST enough to stop the plastic against plastic feel.. .not much more.
I think the real comparison is "What do magnets do?" So let's start with a "Valk" and my feelings there. Honestly, I think it is the best cube out there today. It just has no major flaws. It doesn't do unexpected things. If you get a bit sloppy turning, it warns you about it before rapping you on the wrist with a lockup, because you went one more degree off. So you really can "feel" where the edge of performance is. My main complaint was at the REALLY loose tensions I use for OH, it was unusable for 2H, and it tended to corner twist.
Adding magnets:
The corner twists just don't happen. The cube is more "stable" in my hand, not that I can't screw up and destabilize it, but even transitioning R/L' turns OH, I can keep things stable. (OLL 25 is a classic OLL where I face the issue... I do it as L' R U R' U' L U' R' U R, OH.)
The cube also makes my turning more "accurate". It nicely tends to "stop" where I want it to. Which ironically only amplifies the "stable" "cubic" feel the magnets give. Now the Valk, also offers enough resistance, and "feel" that I can use it for BLD, and 2H. So it made the cube more versatile too.
The magnetic Valk is a great cube. I don't hesitate to recommend it... especially in stickerless, which I love.
My little album on my Valk: http://imgur.com/a/cnJqq
TL;DR:
I'll review the Gans when I have enough solves on it to do an honest review.
Magnetic Valks, are GREAT.
