Keyhole Method/Working Corner method

InfiniteZero

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Joined
Feb 15, 2007
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66
For the keyhole method I understand this much.

1) Cross on bottom
2) get three corners

and the rest I don't fully understand

(this is the intermediate keyhole method)

Do you get the under the missing corner edge by R U' R and then get the other three edges normally, or is there a special way to get the other edges. I don't really understand how this increases your time to do the F2L that quick.
 
Here is how it works. Do Uw(that means move The up layer AND the middle layer otherwise know as the E slice or d slice) until you have a part where there is no edge there(not the edge above the working corner, another edge.) For example if you didn't solve the Orange-Blue-Yellow corner then forget about solving the yellow-blue edge. Do Uw till you have another edge to solve, like say the orange white edge is missing. Make sure you have positioned the orange-white edge on the U layer . Now do U until the orange side is touching the white centerpiece or the white side of the orange-white edge is touching the orange center piece. Now you should be able to solve the edge intuitively using no more than 4 moves.

Here is a reall quick example. Do R U R' on your cube(white on front, blue on top). Now rotate your cube so that there is anothe color on F but Blue still on top. Do R U R' again. Pretend this is where the working corner is and do Uw' so the gap where the red and white corner should be is above the working corner. Now I position the edge with U'. Now I place it with R U' R' and do Uw to put the edge ove the correct place. Pretend the corner under which the edge you just placed is already solved. Now here is how you solve the corner and edge that you have not placed yet. If you've followed my instructions then the proper corner should be directly above the correct position. So I do F' U' F to place the corner. Now I place the edge that belongs above that corner the regular way.

This is the beginner way, the advanced version requires 5 more algs for F2L and the placement of all 4 edges this way. The 5 algs are to place the working corner.

I hope this helps.
 
It isn't too hard, I found it out on my own in about 15 minutes. All you need is R U R' and F' U' F, as said before.
 
Originally posted by Tomarse@Apr 7 2007, 11:16 PM
Thats a right mission, i have no clue wit hthat method.
you aint the only one, half of the advanced methods i dont understand, mostly b/c of the notations but some are just ot many alg's.
 
Thanks! I didn't have a storyboard for this, I just explained things as I did them. Sometimes I say stupid things like "This one is already wrong".

Some more videos will be coming soon. One for "5x5x5 edge-pairing 2 edges at a time (beginner)" which is basically the method I am trying to tell everyone about (only for beginners I use an extreme amount of setup-moves to make it easier). Also I will post videos about 5x5x5 centers, but they are beginners only.
 
that was a very nice video AvG!!

the way I learned the keyhole with Jeyns guide and watching Joel van Noort's vids on it. but it is always great to watch/hear another ones thoughts!

your 5x5 vids are great too! they really opened up doors for me!
you are from Netherlands right?
 
Glad you like them. More to come, but I don't have a camera myself. Next weekend probably.

I am from the Netherlands indeed. Many people don't seem to know you can click on a username to go to http://z12.invisionfree.com/rubiks/index.php?showuser=135. Where are you from? All I could see is your timezone is 2 hours apart from mine.
 
I am from Denmark! (sorry to go off topic)

PLEASE make more videos AvG!! :)

could you make a friedrich F2L video too? A run thru, where you explain what you think as you go..

"I see this is piece is over a free slot, therefor I do this" etc etc
with small tricks etc.
 
I will eventually make a Fridrich F2L video, but I don't even know Fridrich F2L right now.

I am thinking of making a "the route to speedcubing" video series, at least for the 3x3x3 and maybe even for other cubes. This would start with a tutorial for everyone that never solved a cube before and end with Full Fridrich (eventually). I don't know if such a video for OLL/PLL would be interesting, because that is basically just learning algs.
 
@AvGalen
I saw your video and followed it fully and even could make out that the keyhole steps save a lot of moves but surprisingly when I tried it I took more time than the usual method as I had difficulty in spotting the edges quickly and sometimes I would turn the wrong face around while fixing the edges.
 
sometimes I would turn the wrong face around while fixing the edges.

I have 3 tips for you about the edges (I am assuming the "standard color scheme DFRBLU=WRGOBY so White on Down, Red on Front, Green on Right)

1) Edges that have yellow on them belong in the Up-layer so only focus on edges without yellow to put them in the middle layer
2) Make sure your edge is not "connected" to its middle layer face
3) Turn that middle layer face that can connect to the edge so your "working corner" goes to the U-layer, connect the edge by turning the U-layer, undo your first move. Because this is a bit theoretical, I will describe two cases for the FR-edge
3a) Example-scramble: F' U2 F. The non-U-color of the edge (red) can be connected to the Front-face. This means we have to turn the Front-face in a way that puts our working corner in the U-layer (F'). Now we turn the U-layer to connect the edge to its face (U2). Finaly we undo the first move (F)
3b) Example-scramble: R U2 R'. The non-U-color of the edge(green) can be connected to the Right-face. This means we have to turn the Right-face in a way that puts our working corner in the U-layer ®. Now we turn the U-layer to connect the edge to its face (U2). Final we undo the first move (R')
3c) Example scramble (advanced!): L F U F2 U2 L'. Your working corner is now at the DLB position and you want to put the edge that is now in the FU position into the LB postion. The non-U-color of the edge (blue) can be connected to the Left-face. This means we have to turn the Left-face in a way that puts our working corner in the U-layer (L). Now we turn the U-layer to connect the edge to its face (U). Final we undo the first move (L')

I hope this helps and Erik is right. When I switched from a beginners method to working corner, my times increased by 10 seconds, but that only took 1 day. 2 days later, my times were 5 seconds faster than before.
 
Nice idea Erik, I will have to experiment with that. I don't really see the advantage, but I don't see a disadvantage either. Maybe a choice between the two, depending upon the pieces that are already correct after the cross would be a good idea? Or maybe even "free-style" keyhole could be fast, where you just insert an edge or corner arbitrarely so you can do the fastest insertion first and (hopefully) transform the slower cases to faster cases in the proces.

I have experimented with "free-style" keyhole when I was testing the amount of moves that would be necessary for keyhole compared to Fridrich. It saves a couple of moves, but because it is more difficult to remember which pieces have been done already, I didn't think it would be faster.

The advantage of doing 3 corners first is that it is pretty easy to do a "keyhole-x-cross". This means you already place 1 (or more) corners during the creation of the cross.
 
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