I'm not exactly sure, since I've never actually tried it personally (The only Non WCA I've worked on is a speed Curvy Copter), but I can imagine that it has to do with the functionality, in that if the cubies were properly lined up to a flush finish, they wouldn't turn at all given their shape. I was going to say it might be similar to why you can't have a proportional 7x7, but upon thinking it over, it isn't the case because you can't make the proper sketch cuts (in that if it were proportional, the corners would be completely detached from their stalks because there just isn't enough room for it.Is it possible for a kibiminx to have fully retracted centers and edges like cubic 2x2s?
How many prototypes does it take to get to the final product. Is there a way of telling a puzzle will be good at corner cutting or performance based on the design itself? Do you create the moulds for the part to be injection moulded or do you just produce the solid single-piece edges/corners to be sent off. Thanks
Someone finally asked!What happened to project tempest? (From your threads a couple years back)
So I kinda want to get in to 3D design, and design cubes and architecture (one of my favorite things ever). So do you recommend a particular software for a beginner, and a nice tutorial on how to use it. I really think it would be cool if I got into this and I might be able to even be your assistant one day (though I don’t think that will happen ).
Thanks for that. Also, do you have to pay for onshape? If so can you direct me to a free cad designer (or just a fairly cheap one.)If you want to learn, I recommend these tutorials: (and use onshape.) I worked with Jonathan back in 2018 when I was unfamilliar with the software. He is one of the people who really set me off on a path for learning myself, and I will forever be in his debt for that:
I could always use an idea or a second opinion from someone who is knowledgeable about the subject.
I'm trying to aim it to be more of a flagship, but I don't exactly know how much I want it to be priced at. I was thinking maybe $30 for everything, though I'm not sure if the decision is ultimately up to me. I do feel that I might as well give it a price tag like $30, though, given the amount of effort and TLC I put into the actual base design (I hope that doesn't come off as entitled!)Can't wait to see what the tempest 3x3 is gonna be like, any estimates for the price if it gets mass produced?
k then, I probably won't be able to get it then, but it'd be great to see how it compares to other flagships out there. =DI'm trying to aim it to be more of a flagship, but I don't exactly know how much I want it to be priced at. I was thinking maybe $30 for everything, though I'm not sure if the decision is ultimately up to me.
Hoping to get it out next year, though, like all my other estimations, take it with a grain of salt.
I commissioned my public library and shapeways for my prototypes. However, Jonathan told me the new prusa printer is a steal.What 3D
printer would you reccomend that is fairly cheap? Particularly the 200 to 400 dollar range or anything below that. I’m saving up for my own computer rn so I can’t put a lot of money into it until I have about 400 dollars.
When you start and don't exactly know much, it is definitely more of a luck of the draw. However, as time goes on and you see what works and what doesn't, you learn do adapt and eventually you can predict errors before they happen.Is there a way of knowing what parts of a cube would modified if the cube lacks performance in certain aspects. For example, if the cube lacked cornercutting, how would that feedback be converted into a change in design?
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