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I found a good Rubik’s brand

3byMe

Member
Joined
Oct 6, 2018
Messages
52
I found an original Rubik’s brand at a friends house that was finger trickable. Felt like it was super set up, and very well if I might add. He said he think he found it at a big Lott a really long time ago. Does anybody have any idea what it is or where it came from was there anybody setting up cubes back then or was it a factory thing. It’s been sitting around a long time so that pretty much rules out lube. Any info would be appreciated.
 
Joined
Jan 15, 2019
Messages
3,424
Location
Hong Kong
WCA
2023FUKU01
I found an original Rubik’s brand at a friends house that was finger trickable. Felt like it was super set up, and very well if I might add. He said he think he found it at a big Lott a really long time ago. Does anybody have any idea what it is or where it came from was there anybody setting up cubes back then or was it a factory thing. It’s been sitting around a long time so that pretty much rules out lube. Any info would be appreciated.
rubiks cornercutting sucks!
 

SenorJuan

Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2014
Messages
515
Location
U.K
The original Rubiks cubes had centre-pieces screwed into the core, so they could be loosened / adjusted to make them evenly-tensioned. The main problem was if you made them too loose, they popped easily. And it was all 'wrist-turns' back then, so you wouldn't want over-loose, anyway. And yes, people did modify the internals, rounding-off pieces, which gave a small amount of reverse-cutting. Worn-in cubes were known to work better, so new cubes would be 'pre-worn' with a bit of file/sandpaper work in a few places.
 
Joined
Jan 15, 2019
Messages
3,424
Location
Hong Kong
WCA
2023FUKU01
The original Rubiks cubes had centre-pieces screwed into the core, so they could be loosened / adjusted to make them evenly-tensioned. The main problem was if you made them too loose, they popped easily. And it was all 'wrist-turns' back then, so you wouldn't want over-loose, anyway. And yes, people did modify the internals, rounding-off pieces, which gave a small amount of reverse-cutting. Worn-in cubes were known to work better, so new cubes would be 'pre-worn' with a bit of file/sandpaper work in a few places.
I'd rather get the yuxin little magic.
 

Thom S.

Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2017
Messages
1,292
It's hard to imagine nowadays but original Rubik's Brands had the ability go become fast and loose. Work had to be done and Cornercutting never gets 'good' but you still have to imagine that Yu Nakajima's 6.xx (Will edit in later) solve was using such a setup cube and I personally enjoyed setting up mine
 

SenorJuan

Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2014
Messages
515
Location
U.K
Getting a screwed-together core is the key, you can't do much with the riveted core. About 12 years ago, just before I bough a Sheng-En F , I had a massively modified Rubiks brand that was pretty good, I used it for OH and was quite pleased with it, adequate reverse-cutting, few lockups or pops. It was originally a riveted model, but I cut the rivets and fitted it onto a screwed-core from the 'bits box'. All the pieces were heavily rounded-off, I actually glued in reinforcements inside edge-pieces, so I could file down the outside until I was almost completely through the (thick) plastic.
 
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