Alright, thanks for all your input. I've finally decided on a more middle of the road 4x1 mm N52 magnet for the edges and 5x1 mm N48 magnets for the outer layers. Before asking this forum about magnetizing my Blue, I was planning on using 4x1 mm N38 magnets all throughout. That probably would not have ended so well.
Oh, ABSOLUTELY!!!! It's the best cube to learn magmodding on, and the end result is a great performing cube!!!
It's fine. Thank you!
Hmmm The GTS2 M is top notch, particularly a homemade one with N48 5x1 magnets!!!! Or the Valk. Its great too!!! But the N48 5x1 GTS2 I think, is my favorite cube of all!!!
If I can get my hands on another GTS2, I'll certainly try it out! Thanks for the tips!
There's nothing placebo about the fact that magnets, if properly balanced between their pullforce strength, the cube's tension, the cube's design, and the lubricant used within the cube, can have a positive effect on keeping the cube aligned (reduced catching/less overshooting) and provide a tactile response while solving. But anything can have some sort of placebo effect if you believe in it strong enough. With magnets, the change is real. Whether or not these cubes work for everyone, is another thing. Even within the various magnetic strengths available to cubers, it comes down to personal preference.
I don't make the rules, I just modify cubes. People have been modding cubes since 1980, sanding feet and torpedoes, thinning cubie piece walls, adjusting spring tension, etc. Magnets are just an internal modification. They're not strong enough to cause any piece to move by itself, and to some degree, they can actually slow the face of a cube down as it comes into its resting position. This can be done without the aid of magnets when intentional cubie piece drag is built into the design, like how it is with the Thunderclap V2.
