Sticker colors for white cubes

Mike Hughey

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For those of you with both white and black cubes, what colors do you use to sticker your white cubes? Does anyone use white stickers on white cubes so their color scheme can be the same on their black cubes?

I'm trying to decide how to sticker my V-cubes now. The color scheme they come with ruins me completely. I'd love to have the same color scheme I'm used to, but wondering if people find that white stickers on white cubes works okay or not.
 
yeah, that would be great if Chris Licciardi from cubesmith.com could put a "V"-Logo into the sets he will send. But maybe he isn't allowed or something because it aren't real V-Cube-stickers. We will see, he probably thinks about this, too.

Back2Topic: I prefer white stickers on white cubes, after 2 or three solves I don't even see the white surface anymore. Black stickers ruin my 3x3x3 and my 3x3x3 part on big cubes completely, for example on the V-Cubes.
 
I usually just keep the same color scheme on both white and black. I do, however, have black instead of blue on one of my white DIY's, just because the blues were starting to wear off and I wanted to see how the black looked.
 
I have a black side on my rubik's brand (all red stickers are gone.. :P)

For a few days I couldn't get under 40 seconds (normally sub 30) but now I don't even notice it.
 
I use white tiles on my white Puzzleproz 3x3 cube. I was worried that black would look like the (dark) blue, and I wanted to keep the same scheme. It is a little odd, as it is tough to see the cube edges on the white face. Doing the "cube in cube" pattern looks odd. I often cube in low lighting.
 
I use white tiles on my white Puzzleproz 3x3 cube. I was worried that black would look like the (dark) blue, and I wanted to keep the same scheme. It is a little odd, as it is tough to see the cube edges on the white face. Doing the "cube in cube" pattern looks odd. I often cube in low lighting.

Hi :-)

Can we see a white 6x6x6 with cube-in-cube-in-cube-in-cube-in-cube-in-cube set up in the obvious way???

Btw, who can find the most cube-in-cube versions on the 6x6x6? I don't have to see how to set them up. Diagrams, applet screen snaps or whatever will do :cool:

- Per
 
I've wondered about the rationale for the WCA rules requiring stickers on all faces. Is it so all the facelets feel the same?

Certainly for BLD, it would be potentially helpful to feel for pieces with no stickers, if for no other reason than to double-check. You could feel for the center piece with no sticker and then be much more sure you have the cube oriented correctly. For speed, I can't think of a good reason, though.

I thought about pulling off the black stickers on my 7x7x7 before doing my solve last night, but decided against it because I thought it could be considered cheating. Besides, that wouldn't help me much anyway, because I'd still have to move all the green stickers to where the black ones are before it would match my color scheme.
 
i really like white on white. it took me a few hours of cubing to get used to it, but i think its actually quite pleasing to the eye when you're used to it.

i asked bob burton about the stickers on all sides issue before and he just said that it was so pieces wouldn't feel different, like you suggested, even for non bld solves. its the same reason why you can't have a cube that has some tiles and some stickers, i gather. i think it's a reasonable rule.
 
Btw, who can find the most cube-in-cube versions on the 6x6x6? I don't have to see how to set them up. Diagrams, applet screen snaps or whatever will do :cool:

- Per

Is this a math question? If I use Red/White/Blue for the cube-in-cube colors, each of the 5 successive inner cubes can be one of the 2 colors different from the containing cube. So, 2^5 = 32. I've done the 4x4 cube-in-cube-in-cube-in-cube. I think I did 5x5 too. The 6x6 shouldn't be a problem. [Center cubie mangling can occur unless you work from the outside in. Like on 6x6, begin with 5x5 cube in it, then 4x4 in that, then 3x3 in that, then 2x2, then 1x1. Jessica Fridrich's alg can be used on the outer shells, but past the halfway point, I turn one "super corner" to the same face as the other, rotate the 2 super corners, then put the first super corner back. To twist 2 corners: (R' D R F D F')(U?)(F D' F' R' D' R)(U?'), where U? means adjust the U face so a new corner in the UFR position will get twisted backward the opposite way.]
 
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I've wondered about the rationale for the WCA rules requiring stickers on all faces. Is it so all the facelets feel the same?

Certainly for BLD, it would be potentially helpful to feel for pieces with no stickers, if for no other reason than to double-check. You could feel for the center piece with no sticker and then be much more sure you have the cube oriented correctly. For speed, I can't think of a good reason, though.
Along with that in the "random thoughts" department.

Given that our competitions should be open to as many alternately abled persons as possible, how could a blind person legitimately compete in BLD? Could you scramble his textured cube, then when he's done with memo switch it out for a normal cube in the same scramble and orientation?

For that matter, could a blind person compete in non-BLD events at all? Given that they would use a cube that would allow them to feel the "color" on the side that is not facing them, something the rules are specifically contrived to prevent.

I don't actually know any blind cubers, but these questions keep me up at night. ;-)

Edit:
I guess that's already addressed:
2s3)For competitors with visual disabilities, inspection and solving can be done on a puzzle with different textures or Braille objects. The solving phase must be done according to the Blindfolded Solving regulations. For the blindfolded events the solving phase must be done on a puzzle with regular stickers or tiles.
 
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