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[Help Thread] The "Square-1 Help / Alg Sharing" thread

Sub1Hour

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I haven't been cubing for quite a long time, and now I'm starting to get back. I was wondering - what are the current advanced methods/alg-sets/trends for SQ1 speedsolving?
OBL is considered unviable but PBL is starting to take off. CSP is widely considered mandatory to be world-class. No one really uses roux n screw or lin anymore. Most people finally realized that CPP is bad. The Volt v2 is considered the best cube right now. I have not heard of any edge snapping in half like in the v1 but I know of 1 case where an edge was bent and needed to be replaced.
 

y235

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OBL is considered unviable but PBL is starting to take off. CSP is widely considered mandatory to be world-class. No one really uses roux n screw or lin anymore. Most people finally realized that CPP is bad. The Volt v2 is considered the best cube right now. I have not heard of any edge snapping in half like in the v1 but I know of 1 case where an edge was bent and needed to be replaced.
Thanks! So the prominent world-class method is CSP-CO-EO-PBL?
 

GANQIYIMOYU

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I have a yuxin little magic sq 1 which has the white and yellow sides. If there any easy way for me to change the yellow side into a black side?
 

ProStar

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I have a yuxin little magic sq 1 which has the white and yellow sides. If there any easy way for me to change the yellow side into a black side?

Here are your options:

1.) Buy the version with a black side
2.) Get a permanent marker and start coloring, while simultaneously praying it doesn't go horribly wrong
3.) Just live with white and yellow
4.) Get black stickers (if it's stickered)
5.) Take off the stickers (if it's stickered black plastic)
 

BenChristman1

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Here are your options:

1.) Buy the version with a black side
2.) Get a permanent marker and start coloring, while simultaneously praying it doesn't go horribly wrong
3.) Just live with white and yellow
4.) Get black stickers (if it's stickered)
5.) Take off the stickers (if it's stickered black plastic)
How many of those are comp-legal?
 

Sub1Hour

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Technically only 1 and 3 are legal
2 Is illegal because different texture and inconsistent coloring
4 is impossible since there are no stickered YLM square-1s dont exist as of right now unless you dye a stickerless one yourself
5 is illegal, I learned it the hard way when one of the stickers came off my original volt so I just made it a black side. Ended up having to use a weilong square-1 for my first official square-1 avg (dont get the weilong square-1 its basically a shengshou squan with a florian equation)

In all reality black does not make that big of a difference, I just like it because its easier for my to distinguish in bad lighting. I was talking to a really good square-1 specialist (top 25) and we were talking about what color goes on top or bottom and he said he always puts white on bottom since his brain just ignores it. Thinking about it I do the same thing where I only look at my top color pieces and ignore the rest. Black is easier for me to pick up against white but I can still get times that are the same with a white/yellow square-1. I do black on top but if there is no black then I do white on top. Also black and yellow square-1's don't work as well as black and white if you are looking for pure distinguishability.
 

GANQIYIMOYU

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Here are your options:

1.) Buy the version with a black side
2.) Get a permanent marker and start coloring, while simultaneously praying it doesn't go horribly wrong
3.) Just live with white and yellow
4.) Get black stickers (if it's stickered)
5.) Take off the stickers (if it's stickered black plastic)
wait there is a black version?
 

NevEr_QeyX

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I used Z3Cubing's tutorial for squan, and I know that double parity = no parity, but how would I solve that using the info in his tutorial? Or would I have to just learn an alg for that?

If you do the M2 U2 M2 alg ( (1,0) / (-1,-1) / (0,1) ) then it will get rid of double parity
 
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